Subasaurus

Hello, i need your help, i need to buy someones parts car (does not matter the condition) as long as it has the door vin tag and dash vin and a title (salvage or clean) and being somewhere between 1977-1979 station wagon. color does not matter. you can either keep the vehicle that has no title now for more parts or ill take it depending on distance. its up to you. I bought this 1979 GL for $60, yes 60! just one catch, it has no title, and its been abandoned at a small shops property since 2002, could not contact original owner and his home is now a "tourists motel" since its in downtown Austin,Tx... i just paid the shops "fine" of being parked there. in Texas theres not much you can do with an abandoned vehicle so there all mostly sold as parts cars, but i want to register it and drive it like it was suppose to. please let me know if anyone can help, theres no first gen Subarus for sale in Texas, or any nearby State. PM me or message me here and ill PM you. thanks for the help, i appreciate it. [update: it runs! it has a clogged fuel filter or the fuel pump is no good] [2nd Update: Fuel pick up tube in the tank was clogged because the original owner lost the fuel cap decades ago which caused the fuel pump to go out when something clogged, which put too much stress on the fuel pump power wire which caused it to melt (weird how the fuse is still good, perhaps they changed it and still couldn't figure it out) original fuel pump only works when its warmed up so i replaced it and now it works everytime] --Pictures below-- 8/29/15 at 10am rescuing the abandoned Subaru that was left to die in 2002. not sure if its 94k or 194k, pretty sure its only 94k. also never knew that any first gen leones came with tachometers stock.. guess it was something they did at the end of 1979. 4WD, 4speed, some kind of aftermarket radio. its all there.. nice and dusty. (factory A/C unknown if its any good, although i feel compression when i turn it) [update: engine runs] [2nd Update: A/C compressor is good] door panels are in good condition except for the interior door handles. Flawless roof (surprising) besides it being sun faded. love white walls. Looks like someone was already trying to sell it, or they just bought it and left it at the shop because of lack of parts? good thing theres the internet now. (i have tried to call the number and its out of service) are those the original floor mats?? --------The Bad----------------------------------------------------------- no old subaru is complete without the cracked dash (note inspection and registration from 2002) poor Subaru. Drivers side rust. im sure this is nothing for some compared to up north. Passenger rust (alittle worse) Random spot for rust to begin forming. nice little ding, cracked the plastic and dented the chrome.

i don't know how much it would be? it is pretty funny though, when my gf can open the passenger door with her house key while i just use any key i have and choose to use. do you have any idea around what it would cost? me just bringing him the barrels (2 of them). My lock on the hatch is actually in very good shape and only the key that came with the vehicle can open it so theres no issue with the rear one. and should i do the ignition one also? considering my screwdriver turns it foward? but costs is the only thing im worried about.

thanks, and yeah probably 1 in each corner would be best (2 total). if someone really wants to get inthere they will, with anything, but your right, most thieves don't even know theres a compartment there, so ill make sure the locks are hidden.

Has anyone ever installed a lock on the back storage (i think its called the tool compartment) by where the hatch is? they've been recently breaking into cars and my GL having so much wear and tear on the locks that my house key opens the door and a flat head screwdriver turns the vehicle on... so its only a matter of time. i see its all enclosed in metal, almost like a safe and im sure a simple lock will keep my tools safe unless they start making a bunch of noise trying to cut it but that defeats the purpose of robbing in the middle of the night any ideas or pictures/instructions (if you have already done this) of installing a lock will help alot, and i've noticed that its alittle flexible so installing it in the middle would be best so they dont just use a crow bar, but its in the way and just need the best way to do this.. thanks.

try unpluging and pluging back the main harness that goes to the engine, theres 2 big plugs behind the battery, under the spade terminal fuses between the engine and frame "rails" on the driver side. i had an issue where my rpm's (tachometer) would just stop at 2,500 like it was stuck, and would work again once i was below 2,500. it might just be a bad connection since theres so many connections inside that plug. try doing that first, it fixed my issue..

more info here plus pictures of how they look- http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/153178-headlight-guards/ i bought mine for $35, clear ones here- http://www.amazon.com/72-82273-Clear-Light-Guard-Headlight/dp/B00332GP7Y/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Subaru%7C13&Model=GL%7C59&Year=1988%7C1988&n=15684181&s=automotive&vehicleId=3&vehicleType=automotive $40 dark tinted ones that a member by the name of "Sull" bought, here- http://www.amazon.com/72-82274-Smoke-Light-Guard-Headlight/dp/B00332GP88/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1425012375&vehicle=1992-13-65-20---8--3199-122-1----4-0&sr=1-3&ymm=1992%3Asubaru%3Aloyale [edit: they are sold out] -one last thing, it is unknown if these covers fit a vehicle with Sealed Quad Headlights, what is known is they do fit 1985-1994 Big Single Beam Headlights (GL, GL-10, Loyale) DL's having quads may not work..

im a synthetic guy, my 220,000mile engine 3 years later seems fine with it. i change it every 5,000miles even though its suppose to be 7K so im actually being nice to my engine. 10w-40 Oreilly Full Synthetic High Mileage Oil with a Wix oil filter, thats what i've been using..

agree,plus i hate my left leg doing absolutely nothing..

i had this issue when i replaced my CV axles, i wasn't sure myself so i decided to wait a couple weeks to see if it was that and turned out it was.. little wear on the new CV axles and steering was perfect again, no more "stopping points" or where the steering wheel gets ridiculously stiff as if you had no powersteering on certain points on the turn, have you recently replaced any front CV axles?

My dad helped me wire the ignition to the cigarette lighter plug, car woun't turn on unless the key is foward and you press down the cigarette button at the same time, obviously i got rid of the coil that gets hot and glows red inside, wish i knew how my dad did it but unfortunately this was 4years ago when i didn't know much about cars, should be pretty simple though, but haven't had a reason to take it apart and see exactly how he did it, old 80's trick... hope this gives you an idea.

so your saying theres no 60's, 70's, 80's or 90's japanese cars in japan including the subaru Leone? how ironic...lets export some cars to the United States.. lets Reimport the vehicles we exported decades ago because we seemed to have crushed them all and the U.S seems to have all our japanese vehicles now..

i broke mine also while trying to remove it, i was trying to add power to the front map lights that i was installing.. good thing the 85-94 is a bit more common. and yes as Leeroy said, turn it and you will find a gap where it falls out, and the other piece that holds the bulb has 2 screws attached to the roof, well it should...

alittle about me, 20years old, having 7 old Subarus(4being parts cars and 3 about to see the crusher since they are compleately gutted) living in an apartment complex pulling engines from my cars using my friends winch wrapped from a tree (i own no power tools except a dewalt drill but i do have plenty of manual tools), used to live in a house till parents divorced, my mother sold everything including my tools, clothes and bed, she was pissed off i chose to live with my dad when i was 15, (she wanted child support money) so having a mother is out of the question, I started over with my father (currently living with him) i just try to make the most of what i have gathered at garage sales and peoples "junk", father being a painter in an apt complex and me working at oreilly's doesn't make much, when you loose everything, you learn to be a hoarder and appreciate things to their maximum potential and double triple check if something is actually trash, also having a gf isn't cheap either, especially being with her since we were 13years old... hope this clears things up a bit oh and about the carpet, dog peed on the carpet, don't care for it much anymore, plus it aint even my carpet, and we've been at that apt for more than 4years so were due for a free carpet change anyways, i would never place dirty tools on the floor if i was in a house thats for sure. just that the lockwasher that goes on the hub was in my closet and i was in a rush this morning so where else than the floor where theres nothing in the way. Thanks for wondering about me

This is the part where every big washer you have will be needed i can usually get the threads through the hub and thats all i need, don't slam the hub on the cv axle to get it through, yes it will work but the chances of you damaging your brand new cv axle and the bearings and the transmission are pretty high, did it once and luckly nothing got damaged. Anyways this is the tool i used to get it through, don't even know what its called but i call it a big fork. i just thread in the crown nut and slowly work it out, install the rotor and continue pulling it through, and once the tire is on the floor the breaker bar on the crown nut does the rest of the pulling and tightening.

2 of the subarus ive acquired had nests only ontop of the engine but under the intake and wires chewed through and cut in half but never pee smell or an actual living/dead animal body anywhere to be found on the vehicle.. although the cars were sitting for 9-15years so perhaps after many years the pee smell dissapears?

i don't have a facebook never had a reason to make one.. i can't see anything. but anyways back on topic about the 56 or 56,000mile GL.

Agree with MR_Loyale, i needed my clutch changed on my 89 GL and it was going to be $650, plus parts and seals and what not.. for $650 i can buy a couple parts cars(which is what i did) and removed the engine out of those to learn how to take it apart, obviously don't try it first on your actual car since you'll do a couple mistakes(if you've never worked on a car before), but i'd recommend finding a junked parts car and learning on that one and transfer the knowledge on your daily driver/actual vehicle... Subarus are awesome reliable vehicles, just not so awesome on the specialized mechanics that only work on Subaru costs. Btw nice looking sedan!! especially being a DL.

anymore photos? and why is the xt going to japan? museum?

Imagine a vehicle with 000,056miles 30years later still having original Engine Oil, filter, and Gasoline from Japan but its probably 56,000 due to the rear fender rust.. and a couple trim pieces missing... plus that strange steering wheel which i don't think was original?? looks aftermarket to me. Either way 56,xxx miles is very low for any surviving GL/DL/Leone, plus considering the fact that most have been crushed makes it even more difficult to find...

OP will surely deliver, we'll just have to wait...

This is why i only pump Shell or Valero fuel(Valero being Diamond Shamrock, might be a texas only), HEB fuel also but most of you guys woun't know what that is as thats definetly only a Texas thing, anyways stay away from those kwikstop or food mart gas stations with the pump displays barely visible to read and the employees not knowing any english... don't know how bad the fuel could be but 5years later pumping Shell and sometimes Valero and im still doing good on the original fuel filter and pump thats been on the car 30years later, although i should probably change them anyways. and throwing all the fuel out and putting better fuel to diagnose the problem might be the cheapest route to take right now. edit: actually it might be easier to unplug the "IN" fuel line and buy a gallon of gas and gravity feed it? don't know as i've never had this issue.

i hate the heat, you might be used to it, but i prefer 30degrees over 90degrees..and lots of giant fire ants on the ground, didn't feel like getting bit some more lol, although that did pop into my mind, transmission has to be bolted on somehow, but being a 4WD Auto, it might have been more work than to just rip the chunk of metal over the radiator.

let us know if they fit, i need to do balljoints on mine too...

Pulled EA-82 engine out today from my parts car to rebuild and have a spare engine when the other gives out, and I didn't realize you also had to pull the A/C radiator for the bottom engine studs to clear the torque converter(i hate automatics), couldn't remove torque converter since there wasn't enough room to go foward and now i was stuck, so i went to plan B, and that was to cut and rip the chunk of metal that goes over the radiator so the engine could be pulled out, anyways I will rebuild and clean up the engine during fall and winter since i don't want to be working on it in 100degree weather...

probably timing belt, they don't last long, atleast you don't have to worry about bent valves, you would be screwed.. and it would not be your day.