Subasaurus

but if Subaru drops the BRZ and just continues the others that are selling well, then wheres the uniqueness that Subaru used to have :/

step on the brakes too hard and you'll have a piece of wood riding shotgun with you..

its all perfect!!! you seem to have lost a mudflap? pretty funnyanyways if you look closely in the last picture, you can see its still there.. i think.

not if i buy it first. lol but no really i'd rather have a 360 Sambar RWD than a BRZ RWD.. it would be really mean if they cancel Subaru's BRZ but not the Scion or the Toyota badged one that i've only seen once in my life.

yeah its insane, it really is... sadly that seems to be rarer than seeing a subaru 360 on the highway today.

could someone provide a picture of this? is the triangle piece still there but blank like a DL would have on its passenger door? or do they have bigger windows to compensate deletion of the triangle? i know of the fender mounted mirrors but door mounted mirrors like an old truck would have i've never heard of before..thanks.

unless you're a highway driver 24/7 like a semi, i would replace it, i know we all avoid potholes but everyonce in a while you're distracted or theres a car next to you and behind you and you can't do anything about it then running it over and then who knows what happenes without that rubber piece.

wtf $90 each?! i went to the "ghetto" side of my town which is the south side and a machine shop removed the old race and pressed in the new one with a 20,000lb hydraulic press for $25 each rear one (this was 1year ago) the front ones dont need a machine, you can actually do it yourself by hamering the bearing with a 1/4 screwdriver (the one with a hexagon circle on the end) so you don't damage the bearings with a flathead. my 13"inch "H" rims have a hole in the rim, the hub fits perfectly inside so i have something to hold it in place while i work with the bearing. im sure a vice can do the same job.

3:30hours-4hours just to remove the halfway in pin that i hammered the living hell out of just because of how stubborn i am untill i realized this isn't going to work, after a cut finger, my hands so black and greasy i couldn't see my nails, a broken vice grip tool, 5drill bits and lots of drops of sweat burning my eyes, i finally got it out and i was celebrating like i just swapped an engine or something into my car even though the wheel was still all taken apart.. also when hammering the axle to remove it from the hub where the bearings are, make sure to install the crown nut backwards and flush to the cv axle end, no guarrantees, but it increases your chances of not damaging the threads.

wow thats the first dashboard i have ever seen thats not cracked, the dashboard alone is probably the most valuable part in that brat lol.

make sure you buy those seals, im still kicking myself for not changing them when i did all 8bearings, now i got grease that i have to clean once a month in the drum brakes..

Always try to get new, their only like $10more, around $55 for remanufactured and $65ish for new ones but if they don't have new ones at Oreilly's, then just go with the remanufactured ones, my aftermarket (don't remember the brand) cv axles are still good after 2years and still going. Autozone is special order now and so is advance autoparts so if you don't mind the extra week of waiting then order with them. but i once got a remanufactured one that would vibrate my whole car at 40mph, turned out the shaft was alittle bent, not noticeable unless you turn the wheel and watch it.. anyways the advantage of buying it from a store is lifetime warranty, you're set for the rest of the ownership of the car, and alittle trick, since lefts and rights are the same size, i only bought 1 front one and 1 rear one, and now i have 4 new/remanufactured ones, ill let you do the thinking of that yourself. oh and don't forget to buy a pack of those metal pins you stick in the 36mm crown nut. also forgot to mention, that pin that holds the cv axle to the transmission, it only goes one way, if the cv axle is 180degrees wrong, it will get jammed halfway in and then you're really screwed, so make sure you double triple check that before you start hammering in the new pin.

Second link is the one that says it has ABS as a feature, wonder if its the first and only EA subaru in the world that has them, or the guy doesn't know what ABS stands for... Also the first link has a vehicle thats a DL yet it has a dual range manual transmission?? does that even exist stock or has it been changed?

i buy the 10lb tape from lowes by 3M, ive used it ALOT on my GL, from keeping the front badge on, to the rear SUBARU GL badge on the hatch to the blind spot mirrors, heck even the logo on the hatch but you have to cut it up into pieces for that, the reason i say 10lb and not the 20lb is because for some reason the 20lb has black colored tape and "stretches" almost like it melts the glue and detaches from the dash board when its burning hot in my car while the 10lb is transparent and seems to act differently in different weathers and holds my ipod just fine to the dash, theres also the 5lb red colored tape that works extremely well when its under freezing conditions since the sun helps it stick more, the red 5lb doesn't need the heat... ive been experimenting alittle with the different double sided tapes at lowes for about 2 years now and found that for $10 you get a pretty big roll of the 10lb transparent tape compared to the tiny roll of 20lb tape for $12. every weight of tape acts differently. hope this helps!

love your comments MR_Loyale, cracks me up even when im not in the mood..you should see how long it takes for the dumb heads at Autozone or Oreilly's to understand, I HAVE THE DEALER ADDED A/C, NO INFO EXISTS IN YOUR SYSTEM SO QUIT TRYING TO RESEARCH AND JUST LISTEN TO ME. the accumulator is a different style one on the "onboard" A/C compressor than the "outboard" one.

agree with you djellum, last cars with style.. funny part is, these 1985-1994 EA cars were considered disposable and throw away cars back in the 80's when they first came out, now we see them as an awesome quality built to last, "real bumpers" and not a rigged to break vehicle that has you buying a new vehicle every 7years like today's cars.. my opinion is that these 1985-1994 will be worth something in 10years or so because well if their worthless right now then their all getting crushed and forgotten of in someones back yard but when theres only about 1,000left in the U.S? who knows.. but what i do know is whenever someone talks to me about my 89GL or people stare the hell out of my car or even when im working on my vehicle and an advertisement to buy a new car comes on the radio, that just makes me want to put more effort into my car and more love into it.

nice write up Jeszek, i have no complaints, everything you said is completely true, to the over reving, to them being underpowered, to them being bullet proof, to the fuel economy (i get around 34mpg ish) +1

only time i've ever had an issue with it not staying in gear was with my 93 impreza only in reverse, was stuck at the beach and it seemed that when i would reverse, randomly it would reject me, on pavement its fine and works flawlessly, ended up just holding it with my hand so it would quit rejecting me while trying to get out of the hole. strange how it never does it in 1st, just reverse and under stress at the same time.

cool rims! i see your an old car guy and have many other subarus back there, including another EA82, nice.

isn't there 3 keys that the vehicle comes with? 2 electronic keys and 1 plain sinple key (forgot what they are called). the only bad part is that the simple key, you can't open your doors remotely or open the hatch, you gotta do it the old fashion way and open 1 door and then click the unlock button on the door itself to open the rest..

great that you fixed the issue! the blinker system on these older subarus, or any old car is all manual, by turning on the hazards, all its doing is making contact on both ends like if you just turned on the left blinker or right blinker on the lever of the steering wheel column, but both at the same time (not possible unless you have a hazard switch). if you disconnect the hazard switch, you will have no blinkers when you're driving, its basically a bypass double switch, pretty cool how old things used to work when you think about it. today its all by computer..

as far as i know yeah, only 1, its by the shock tower above the brake fluid reservoir. i changed mine from the original to a WIX branded one in june 2014, so far so good.. (knock on wood)

it just doesn't make sence on such an old vehicle, where you can find another for $500 or less and when you do crash, insurance "values" your vehicle barely at 1,000 if your lucky.. waste of everything, no point.

same. never have asked for only comprehensive, thought comprehensive only came with the full coverage package, interesting...

can't, im 20years old and you know what that means with insurance, all i have is third party coverage (liability i think) at $90 month which is pretty cheap (i crash into someone, they get their car fixed but im left with nothing.. or if someone crashes into me i get my car fixed, no not really ill just get $1,200 and hope that covers it, already happened once and i bought a parts car for $200 and that fixed my damages with my free labor) and bought more Subarus with the rest of the money. full coverage on my old subie at my age would range between $220-$300+ A MONTH. ridiculous.. thats like buying a Subaru every month.