Subasaurus

4 wires comming out of the distributor, it belongs to a sensor that reads the slits on this spinning metal disk inside the distributor underneath the rotor, it works as a crank sensor in a way, if this sensor doesn't read the slits then you will get no spark, i wish i could help you with the color coding but mine are different, but 2 of the 4 wires go with another color, so not all match with each other, just gonna have to wait for someone else to give you the color codes.. FYI- that sensor fails if water gets inside of there, does the seal between the distributor and cap look bad? if it is, they don't sell this seal, maybe online but haven't checked, ended up siliconing mine shut, good luck!

checked my 89 yesterday but seems to have different colors than the ones you have, don't worry were all reading your question.

$214 was how much mine cost when i did it a year ago, that included the seals also.

engine wise there isn't much in a gl-10 since they were, lets say a bad design on the turbo (EA-82T), but as you posted previously, if you want fancy seats and rear disk brakes, those are only available on a gl-10, as long as the gl-10 doesn't have air ride suspension, you can also steal those (if there any good) make the back bounce and see how many times it bounces after you let go of it, that will determine how good the shocks are, you dont want a DL since thats a complete base model. junkyards charge about $35 for each front seat, $90 for both rear disks, so if i was you, i would get the 2 front seats and rear disk brakes at the junkyard and buy a GL (whole parts vehicle) also, i think that would be the cheapest most efficient way of knocking down the list you have of parts. and ultimately completing your 1989 Subaru.

i see what your saying, i will post up if i get it, i will try then you guys can ask me if you need any parts..

like a GL-10 donor vehicle, hes looking for rear disk brakes, higher trim seats (GL-10), grill and i dont blame him, mines cracked on the top but the hood covers that, who doesn't want bigger wheels, side marker lights are typical since water gets in them and makes them ugly, suspension typical also, it is a 25 year old vehicle, moldings and decoration pieces also. all this i was able to achieve by grabbing myself a junk EA-82 for parts, if you find one, they are very cheap ($200-400). problem is finding one lol, but yes as Loyale 2.7 Turbo pointed out, it will be cheaper if you get another vehicle for parts, and since you haven't had this vehicle for long, more stuff you had no idea are broken or are about to, will need replacing.

about that back bumper, you might be better off just replacing the whole thing, more info here on that rear bumper. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152684-rear-bumper/ and im with you on the back door hatch, seems that they all love to rust.

sorry you experienced that, especially since you probably have to order everything online and wait a week to 4 weeks and then find out its junk..

good luck with the most common problem on the EA-82. if it doesn't fix it, time to change that oil pump.

my tie rod steering ball joints were shot beyond belief when i first got my vehicle, swapped one from a gl-10 at the junkyard and the main balljoint at the end of the A arm that holds everything seems to have very little play, seems fine for now but im sure the play will just get worse through time, and this is on a 215,xxx GL.

yes, that would be a really crappy day to have an airbag to your face.

you're right, there isn't a button on the side of your shifter, i don't know, ill let someone else reply to that one maybe its an LSD? if it is an LSD (limited slip differential) on an EA-82 GL then i know nothing about them since there not very common, actually i think they are very rare, your's being a 1989 is very possible, Subaru did some strange things between 1988-1991. best of luck! and the reason for the FWD fuse is for when you run a spare tire (wheel is smaller) this is quite important when you have an AWD or "Full Time 4WD" and you have no option to run FWD unless you use that fuse (or removing it). some people use it for summer time use so they don't accidentally engage it (4WD purposes) or to increase fuel MPG (AWD purposes), or when towing it with a dolly (AWD purposes).

there is a fuse on the front passenger shock tower, its in a small black box, can't remember if removing it puts it in FWD or having a fuse puts it in FWD.

nono, you are confusing Full Time 4WD with Full Time AWD (All Wheel Drive), newer Subaru vehicles say after 1990 (for the most part) are Full Time AWD, if you had a Full Time 4WD on dry pavement, you wouldn't have a transmission for very long, FWD should always be ON unless your going into sand or offroading or you are stuck. 4WD is when all 4 tires turn at the same rate, sounds awesome untill you have to turn on pavement, AWD has a slip differential where turning on pavement is allowed, even though all 4 tires get power just like a 4WD, they work compleately different. if you try to turn in 4WD, either you will hear some horrible clunking, steering will get tight and you'll start loosing speed, or your tires will jump around. from what i know, if you drive in 4WD while its raining, you will actually have a greater chance of loosing control and crashing than just leaving it in FWD.

also just an FYI- be careful if you ever take that dash apart DSwanson1, theres 2 screws behind that climate control panel you mentioned and i screwed that one up and broke the plastic tabs and now the thing as a whole sinks in alittle. more info here about that (by Loyale 2.7 Turbo) http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/69467-ea82-dashboard-backlights-upgrade-to-hid-white-led%C2%B4s/page-2

yes it is, see- i was also wondering what it was for a second there.. had to go take a look at my parts car to confirm..

isn't that the P for Parking in an automatic transmission?

try posting in the 1990 to present? you might get an answer there

nice find, im still looking for another

mechanic woun't give me it! or any of it... unless im the owner of it 100% legally. he doesn't want to be responsible incase the original owner returns (hes being stupid, its been over a decade) soooo, hes basically dissapearing it and letting a tow company take it and scrap it somewhere, he doesn't want to get sued i guess.. sorry about that :/

good idea, i will check on that.

as Loyale 2.7 Turbo pointed out.. that outboard A/C compressor was a pain to find, hope yours is working alright, KIKI DIESEL was my brand name, anyways theres some nissan thats very similar and fitted on mine since there was no replacement. basically your subaru had no A/C but the dealership rigged one on professionally. make sure you figure out where your gonna get another one if that one ever breaks. Your's does look different than mine so i guess its not a KIKI DIESEL.

so turns out the title can't be found, registering it here in texas, either the vehicle goes to auction and im the highest bidder (screw that) or i bond the title once i have a bill of sale but turns out to be $6,000+ to go that route just to have a title and have it in my name (plus towing and fixing the car!), tomorrow a 1979 Subaru will be crushed, sorry, its the county's fault. im just gonna look for another one to buy, prefferably a brat and not a wagon. thank you for all the help guys, if im ever in this situation again where the engine hasn't been started in so long, ill know what to do!

lol i don't see how that door is even functional anymore, may i place my arm on the door? no! theres speakers there. how do i close the door? you don't! what if i push the door open with my foot like i usually do? you'll tear my speakers!

do an oil flush on your next oil change, to clean things up inside, note: oil flushes spoil your oil and filter, so do it only when you are going to do an oil change.