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Subasaurus

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Everything posted by Subasaurus

  1. agree, don't junk it, sucks that a 92,000mile engine to the trash, but everything else on the vehicle is still good, slap another engine in it, and dont let the crusher eat it!! find another wagon and use that one as parts is another option. im pretty sure you don't want $150 for your wagon. thats what the junkyard will give you.
  2. whats the problem when it bogs down on the first acceleration? early cold mornings? can i fix it? doesn't bug me since it only does it once or twice only when the engine is cold.. but you never finished your statement lol. is it normal or is there a small problem?
  3. got that harsh tick when i did my oil pump, it almost sounded like a knock, don't know why it did it but i took out the oil pump, put it back in and it went away, worked on the oil pump months later and it came back and would not go away no matter how many times i pulled the oil pump out (might have been a coincidence) so it pissed me off and i replaced all 8 lifters from a 60,xxx junkyard vehicle and that fixed it, and while i was in there, fixed a bunch of other things. btw your windshield wiper motor has been changed
  4. that is one freakin awesome red wagon!! too bad i suck at welding, and im cheap as hell. Saved image, ill eventually get there... eventually.
  5. when i adjusted my brake pedal too much, i overheated my rear brakes since they were dragging slighly, im not sure if it depends on the brand of the pads but when they overheated, they would squeak everytime the tire rotated (i guess the drum was slightly oval) and the wheel would be pretty hot, as in you can't keep your hand on there for more than 2-3 seconds. once that happened, i needed new pads or just sanding them down with sandpaper and the drum also since the squeak would never go away after that, even if they were cold. the rear passenger bearing (spline bearings) was bad when i first got my 89 GL (right side of roads are usually worse than left sides) it also makes a crackly sound instead of a squeak but i changed the CV axle first and it wasn't that, so i changed the bearing and that was it, just make sure you take that hub with the long arm to a shop since the race has to be pressed, unless you have a pretty good garage, or just take it to your mechanic as you stated. doubt its the cv axle or bearing if its that hot, check your drum brakes! note: front bearings are $20 and rears are around $60-80, good news is the rears have the 3 pieces while fronts are 2 bearings ($40 total). hope you find your issue.
  6. oops.... i saw a red 1987 GL-10 at the junkyard about a year ago with rear disk brakes and in pretty good condition but didn't bother since i thought i could just find some other ones on another GL, woopsy, should have gotten them, it was crushed 10months ago.
  7. howcome no one has suggested rear disk brakes? can be found on GL-10's.
  8. dont know if the engine is seized up or not thats what sucks, either way im still jumping on it for $125, but it shouldn't be seized up, (hope not), but what kind of lube on the top of the cylinder before rotating the crank bolt? just regular plain oil?
  9. Alright so im going to pick up an EA71 1979 1600 GL Wagon 4WD around monday for $125, good condition with no rust (been in Texas its whole life) why so cheap? the mechanic is tired of seeing it back there abandoned since 1999 and wants it gone and his money back from the labor over 15years ago (hence the $125 or he would just give it to me for free) (mechanics lean title transfer blah blah blah) now i've never experienced an engine thats been sitting for so long and then start it up for the first time, what should i do first before i damage something internally? my other cars that were sitting for 2-4years i just cranked on it, adjusted and replaced things that it needed.. right now what i know is the distributor, well somethings wrong with it says the mechanic, don't know what since i haven't cranked on it, and the other thing is it has a stuck rear (drum) brake from sitting so long. how do i get it unstuck? i have to load it on a trailer and bring it back home on its long journey. thanks for any help!
  10. i like WIX filters alot, and thats the one i will stick with for many years to come.
  11. lol oops, sorry had it backwards, always confuse them..
  12. if we do, some specialist that works at the FRAM factory might join in too.
  13. don't worry theres a couple more in Texas that im hogging, but have yet to see another on the road in the 2 years of owning my wagon. i know how it feels to be a lonely old subaru going down the road with no other ones around.
  14. how low does the oil pressure gauge drop to? i know its hard to read the exact psi but if its around 8-16psi while idling at 800rpm your fine, the reason it drops when it warms up is because the oil thins out when hot, perfectly normal, but if its near zero as in 1-8psi, then its either time for a new oil pump mickeymouse seal, or if the previous owners didn't do the oil changes when they should have, then time to replace the whole pump, don't strip or break those bolts! ask me how i know.. but before all that, do an oil change and see where that reads.
  15. really? you wish it would still stay up while it is off? im OCD about it and it bugs the hell out of me that the other 5 fall to resting position while my fuel is the only one that stays up, thought it had to do with it being mechanical but when i took the cluster apart to fix my spedometer cable that broke, its all electronic except for the speedometer cable ofcourse. i also wonder why that one chooses to stay up while the rest fall...
  16. just realized your the one that made that thread loyale1993 lol. oh well.
  17. not another oil filter thread, the last one was pretty extensive.. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/152798-fram-high-milage-oil-filter/
  18. about the wire in your fuse panel, thats your radio, i guess you have an aftermarket radio, they stuck it in there like that because they were too lazy to add a separate fuse so they just brought power in and still fused it correctly, but incorrectly, and i think that plug under the carpet is for the Map Lights if im not mistaken. pretty easy to add the upgrades to these cars as long as you don't have a DL. now the glove compartment switch and wires under your carpet, who knows, thats specific to your vehicle, its all up to you now.
  19. Maybe since your so loyal to that shop, they are overcharging you? because they know you woun't go anywhere else to get them done. i would try multiple locations before you make a definitive answer..
  20. oh wow, im so glad i did my own work on the shocks, each rear one took me about 30min, so an hour on both rears, the fronts, man those were a pain, i didn't have a shock compressor so i was doing it another way (the wrong way) that caused the washer thats between the frame of the shock tower and the top of the strut to not cooperate since it has a bearing and it keeps spinning on you when you try to move it, very frustrating, about an hour each front one, and i had to cut some sort of holder for the brake line thats attached to the strut, weird. but $732 is absolutely ridiculous, it really is, i mean i can go buy 2 more loyale/GL wagons with that and the chances of finding one with good shocks are somewhat there. i swapped from my 1990 loyale donor to my GL, all 4 shocks. took me about 3-4hours to do.
  21. welcome! and i wish i lived in Oregon, seems like its flooded with subarus there, wish i could find some pre-1995 subarus here where i live.
  22. now thats a transmission i wouldn't mind having lol
  23. no questions are stupid, your just trying to learn more about them. keep asking any questions you may have, your not hurting anyones feelings lol.
  24. Something with the alternator, my stop lamp, brake, charge, all faintly light up when the diodes in the alternator begin to go out. not sure if my check engine also lit up, i don't think so. anyways i just went to replace it since it has lifetime warranty, so i never experimented with it. one thing is for sure though, the people at Oreilly's said theres nothing wrong with my alternator when they tested it, but i complained enough to get another and i replaced the alternator with another remanufactured one and they all dissapeared. good luck!
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