Subasaurus

chrome modern logo is from vehicles between late1987-1993ish, when subaru had no idea what logo to go next (or what they were doing) theres actually a rare one where visible on new old stock packages in 1988ish of OEM parts where the old logo connecting the stars was used but without the lines connecting them, so it looked like a complete jumbled mess, no wonder they changed it to that (your picture) anyways, the only vehicle ive seen with my own eyes is a 1989 GL, 1990 Loyale, 1993 Loyale, this is because i live in south Texas where Subaru's overall aren't common. so i don't know what other vehicles it could belong to. extra facts=Impreza's 1993-1996ish had a black background with that modern logo, 1997 and up had blue background as we know today and also revised the logo by "stretching the stars sideways."

$5-6 here for seals,and what motivated me on fixing my vehicle was that i still havent seen a 3rd gen 1984-1994 in the 2 years ive owned my vehicle. its quite nice driving a rare unique car down here in Texas instead of a corolla. you have it easy, i had a bearing issue, poor oil pressure (new oil pump) new fuel pump, fuel filter, all semi new hydraulic lifters/lash adjusters and rockers from a 60,xxx mile vehicle, new headgaskets, new belts, water pump and timing belts with the tensioners, seals on the cams to new radiator, radiator hoses and heater hoses to ball joints and 4new tires, did i mention a check engine light? that was a new MAF which was well over $100 i can't remember anymore since it was one of my first projects, new electric fan to no radio in the vehicle and the bushing on my shifter, alignment since steering wheel was 3/4 crooked, spedometer didn't work and my KIKI air conditioner was seized up so had to get a whole new compressor, alternator diodes were dying, many many other things like 3 new CV axles and boots for the rack and pinion as they were torn, plus a new power steering system since there was sand in there since those boots were torn. so trust me your vehicle is far from being a money pit.

is that thee car? or is just the same model? has california plates.

no one cares about the wagon. rarely does one ever restore a worthless vehicle, now they have been going up in price the past 2 years, but it still needs more time before aftermarket manufactures begin to produce stuff for them. heres mine, i could not find the exact replacement, so i chose the one with the 1800, you can still see the old one alittle but i sanded it down as best as i could, it wasn't an easy peel off the old sticker and stick the new one, took me a couple hours of carefully sanding and not going to bare metal with no paint, you can't really tell unless you look for it. mine has 11 door dings on the drivers side and 7 dings on the passenger including someone keying one side of the vehicle back in 1998 before the car was abandones for 15years, 1999-2014 when i picked it up. (registration and inspection sticker proves that) that fender dent, was that from you adjusting it with a crow bar?

tire on the roof looks good on wagons with that extra roof rack cage ontop of the roof rack, not sure about the brat though. (never seen one in real life so i wouldn't know)

the baja was subaru's way of bringing the brat back, but went away for obvious reasons. (cost of prod. and sales) never liked the tail lights, thats the only thing i hated looking at. and yeah pity that wagon's are getting crushed and melted as we speak.

the back wheel looks like its not centered, am i right on this? its not your fault, it was subaru, but its more towards the front of the wheel well right? also maybe i should give you some credit, i ordered 2 4WD stickers on ebay like you have on your front fender, i like them, i have 1 sticker i bought couple months ago thats on my back hatch that says 1800 4WD, but plain 4WD for the fenders looks great, so thank you for the idea!

transmission does not have a filter, or i don't think it does anyways theres a magnet on the drain plug that catches any metal shards from wear and tear from the gears, just make sure to tell them to clean the magnet before they plug it up again.

also does your shifter have any play? say foward and back? if it does, could be that your bushings are out and you're having a hard time getting it into gear since the shifter can't reach that far into the transmission anymore.

dipstick is located under the spare tire, almost in the transmission tunnel of the vehicle, under the fire wall, alittle hard to reach in but also you will need a funnel, theres no way you will ever be able to pour more (if needed) without a funnel. and 90w transmission oil has a strong smell, so be prepared for that and try not to get it on your hands. (gives me a stomach ache) and nothing sounds stupid, theres no wrong question, so keep asking them! also i put 80w-90 GL-5 transmission oil, just make sure its for manual transmission vehicles, for some reason manual transmission fluid is getting harder and harder to find where im at.

has anyone noticed that the EA82 vehicles have an amazing turn radius compared to other peoples cars? i can do a U turn with 3 lanes including the one im in.

you will notice the amount of power by alot if it is the cats, will feel like a compleately different engine, also since you live in alaska are these old gen subarus common up there? quick fact-as numbchux stated, front bearings are way cheaper than the rear splined bearings, about $20 each for fronts and theres 4, 2 on each tire, (very easy to change). The rears are $60-$80 but 2 things, one you need a press to get the race out or if you have a good garage then you can do it at home and two, when you buy the rear bearings it comes as 3 pieces, the race and the "sandwich" of the 2 bearings that hug the race. so technically one bearing in the rear (in a way since thats how it comes in the box).

talking about coupes and sedans and stuff. what differentiates a wagon from an SUV? is it only because theres a car model that goes with it so the SUV one is considered a stationwagon? i mean look at the Kia Soul, its considered an SUV, so if theres not a 2 or 4dr car model that goes with the Loyale or GL or watever, then the Loyale/ GL Wagon is considered an SUV? i once saw a Subaru Outback Limited 4dr sedan a year ago, weird vehicle, only one i've ever seen. so it could be that my theory is compleately wrong, i don't know.

if it keeps bogging down at 5,200 rpm after you replace the fuel filter, its probably your cats, mine would bog down after 4,500 and i couldn't understand why, 3 months later they finally gived when i floored it to get infront of someone on the highway and sounded like a bunch of rocks in my engine, went to a muffler shop and gutted (2 of them) for $60. -check your laws if you go that route, in Texas a vehicle after 25years of age is exempt from emissions, not sure about Alaska. make sure when you do the wiggle test you do it when the tire is floating in the air and wiggle the tire up and down if its the front ones since the steering ball joint will mess with you if that has wear (replaced both of mine a year ago), back ones you can do anyway. (Always lifted and in the air, this will give you an accurate test, only the real bad bearings you can do while the weight of the vehicle is on the tire)

There are many types of oils on the shelfs, just choose one that you and your vehicle like and stick with it, i just buy full synthetic high mileage O'reilly oil. i don't see the mobil or shell or castrol as any different, infact the castrol actually made my rear main seal leak more, so thats why i stick with high mileage oil to help with seals since it has additives. don't stress yourself out with all the different types of oils and filters.

+1 on this.Hauling it on a dolly and not disconnecting the drive shaft (AWD) will do damage, either that or a full blown trailer with all 4 tires on the trailer.

i've got a 1888 Thomas Edison edition Subaru and a 1998, the 1888 seems to be horse power driven and the 1998 Loyale is a hybrid i picked up before they were discontinued. but no really, the "grinding noise" your hearing is probably a wheel bearing, i had a bad one on the back passenger one i had to change. you've got good oil pressure, they aren't exact but are enough to somewhat see whats going on, but you should consider doing an oil flush to clean your lifters, they might not be inflating all the way cuz of gunk and stuff. note: when you do an oil flush, you spoil the oil and must change the oil and filter, so do it on your next oil change, it woun't hurt anything. also put "highmileage oil" on the next oil change, might help some. i went extreme with the lifters (drove me insane) i took it all apart and changed every lifter and rocker from a junkyard vehicle with 65,000miles. and as I75eya said, change your fuel filter, or atleast blow some air through it (backwards) and see if that changes anything, if it does, replace it. should fix your power issue if its that, but also note, this is an EA engine, EJ's are more like a modern gasoline engine while the EA82 drives more like a diesel, your not going to break any speed records any time soon with 90ponies but its a very reliable engine.

if the engine threw a rod or the engine is toast, sell the parts or slap another engine in it and keep it or resell it. good luck!

you're right for future reference incase anyone wants to make a room clock or still use it in the vehicle, •-Black=ground (obviously) •+Blue=memory (for when you turn your vehicle off) this wire will always have + power to remember the time. •+Yellow=daylight (bright screen) •+Red and +Yellow=(dim screen) for night driving. So if your going to use the clock in a bedroom as im about to with my spare, you hook Black with - and +Yellow and +Blue together to a 12V powersupply transformer at home (obviously) +Red=Not Used.

alright, its all good and fixed, white resistor is the issue, if it unsolders again, ill just have to replace it with a modern resistor, see if that improves anything with the heat issue. thank you DaveT and rdweninger for all your help also (note how much brighter it is) looks like it might annoy me at night while driving now lol.

think thats where they vacuum seal it from the factory in order for it to glow and light up (first picture) also i think i found the problem, white resistor on bottom right on previous post seemed to have unsoldered.. (2nd picture) so i will see what happenes now.

okay so what am i looking at? what do i replace? funny part is the one on the right (first picture) that looks burnt on the bottom right of the board is the one out of my donor (2nd picture) thats working fine, the one on the left is the one that sometimes works now. what do i replace so it can work for another 10years to keep as a spare? also i don't see any bulbs of any kind rdweninger :/ it has its own light source. (3rd picture) thanks for the help guys.

try to put heavier oil, see if that changes anything, and get the oil that says "highmileage" it has additives that helps things compared to regular oil.

i can actually count on my hands how many brz's ive seen total in my city over the years, FRS i see like one a day, and the one with the toyota logo ive only seen 2, Brz's about 7ish-9ish total.

My 1990 Loyale donor vehicle has no airbag nor auto seat belts, Also why did the auto seat belts leave? not just on Subaru but on every auto manufacturer? i heard that it was against the constitution to force us into seat belts (even though we could unclip it) thats why they faded away.. is this true or a bunch of bologna?