Subasaurus

just like the dash bulbs? and this morning it was compleately off and i had to tap on it for it to come on, thats a first, never been compleately off before.

looks very cool all 4 together like that, and for the chances of that happening are slim!

hmmm... i ordered and installed the oil recall that subaru had in the early 90's on the pvc tubing that comes out of the valve covers to the intake, it fixed my small "oil leak" that i would loose a quart every 3,000miles for no reason, but 100miles per quart of oil is extreme, do you have a skid plate underneath? since the vehicle sat for a while it could be that your rear main seal dried up and is leaking but hides in your skid plate and only falls out when you drive, that happened to me a year ago, but not a quart every 100miles, more like a quart every 1,000. oh and if your interested, heres the recalled item, http://m.ebay.com/itm/261697337308?txnId=1614858463016 $25 is a bit much but its new old stock, but this will not cure your massive oil dissapearance, maybe some but you have some other issue also.. best of luck!

agree

i love it, and its in perfect shape.

My 1990 loyale has power locks and voltmeter oil pressure. Probably confused the Legacy and Loyale, look almost the same but Legacy is rounder (hence the greater curvature to the windows). My Loyale doesn't have automatic shoulder straps, glad it doesn't! Probably starting in 1987ish and up (when SPFI engines came out) had better fuel mileage.

Not bad, will look nice, wish i would do that to mine, but the way i think is, i don't like investing in one project more than what i bought the car for so i limit myself, good luck with the project and keep us informed! love the color btw, got the same color also, screams 80's.

oil companies... like they don't have enough money already, they can care less about waste and pollution, i don't understand how my 1979GL can get me 32ish mpg, my 1989GL gets 35ishmpg, when my gf's 2014 honda civic gets 28-33mpg. conspiracies..... ooooo

alright thanks DaveT, i will check the solder joints and resolder them and figure out how to add a capacitor, ill have to take a look at it to see whats going on, just wanted to know if it was possible, thanks!

also, during the winter only when it was below 40 degrees F, the clock would forget what time it was when i would turn my vehicle off for more than 15min, but above 40 degrees, it always remembered for days, was this one of the first symptoms before this problem?

My dash clock gets dim and sometimes almost compleately gone, i go to rub the screen to "clean it" or very very lightly tap on it and it comes right back on for a couple hours, then starts fading once again, can i fix this? I can get another off of my Donor/Parts vehicle, but wanted to know if its a quick fix or if the whole clock needs to be changed, thanks. EA82 1989 GL Dashboard.

yeah thats for remanufactured/used, can't find new stuff even at Oreilly's/ AutoZone anymore, plus new would be 1.5-2x more expensive anyways. i had an issue with my vehicle a while ago and thought it was the TPS, but turned out it was a failing electronic distributor. not sure if the TPS is exactly where it should be since i messed with it, oh well.

LMAO love your comment of "Let me show you the magic of the search button!!"and that is so much information, wow well this is gonna take me a while to learn. GL=Grand Luxury DL=Devoid/Dilaptiated Liability, lol (just kidding) thats not what it means, but no one knows. so thats the best guess we will have

so what does DL stand for? and the 10 in GL-10? i think GL stands for Grand Luxury right?

i've had my sway bar removed, and reinstalled it again, i can tell you i felt a whole bunch of nothing, so its your choice, i left it back on only because i like to keep my vehicle as stock as possible, but yes when usually lifting the vehicle they remove the sway bar, this is so the suspension can flex more and have more travel, the sway bar limits that which limits your clearance which makes it less "offroadish".

not sure what that is, tried searching online and i don't think its a car that was imported to the U.S. its not a corolla or a volvo, also i highly doubt anyone would ever advertise a first gen subaru wagon, their such obscure and forgotten vehicles that even subaru owners ask me, thats a subaru? with my 79 wagon. sad sad world. this is the wagon you speak of in the picture below. (or my profile picture for a front view) also don't feel bad you confused wagons, look at the 70's corolla wagon and nissan wagon's. you can barely tell the difference from them to a subaru.

i don't know anything about brz's engines, but what if you turbo it yourself?

mine isn't broken compleately but when i turn my vehicle off, the voltage gauge falls way below where its suppose to be, but oh well, and yeah you can buy a $8 digital voltage display at walmart, thats what i did.

the saddest part is your neighbor Mexico is throwing R12 and running their vehicles with no catalytic converters, worse, the cars are going down the road smoking all over the place (ask me how i know) and to make matters worse, their not even new vehicles, 'Merica!! where we shoot ourselves in the foot to show the rest of the world were better and we did it first.

Everything worked out perfectly besides the fact the switch being upside down and having to take the dash apart again to flip it, the SINGLE POLE DOUBLE THROW (S.P.D.T.) ON-ON switch worked perfect, the switch looks alittle cheesy (wish it was bigger) but thats the only one i could find that was S.P.D.T. thank you crawlerdan, scooner, and wagonist, couldn't have done it without you!! here is a picture of where the switch went, i think ill eventually order a better looking one that lights up from online and install it later. oh and i left the original 4WD button in the same place (i didn't want a hole in my shifter) i just jammed some plastic in there so the button woun't go down anymore, or make an annoying vibrating sound on the highway.

white is switched power red is to engage 4WD yellow is to disengage 4WD looked everywhere for the switch and ended up finding a single pole double throw ON-ON switch at Altex computer store lol, lowe's had a SPDT but it was ON-OFF-ON. still working on the project, will post a picture of where the switch ends up.

i will check with the multimeter tomorrow since i woun't be home till tomorrow, i mean my only guess is 2 wires need power from 1 because theres 2 solenoids that get activated when engaged in 4WD. don't know, ill find out tomorrow. any other opinions greately appreciated, thanks guys!

what if i don't use the original switch? whats going on inside the switch?

4WD button on my shifter is finally breaking, well i thought this was going to be a plug and play easy thing with 2 wires and a switch but apparently it has 3 wires for some reason and i don't want to play the guessing game and fry something. but apparently i need a relay of sorts and something being single pole double throw on/on switch, i don't understand, could someone explain it to me in detail? theres a white, yellow, and red wire, i dont understand why i need a relay if the 4WD button doesn't have a relay. i was reading this thread= http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/150571-random-4wd-engage/?hl=button im confused, is the 4WD button 2 buttons in 1? thats all i could come up with myself. do i actually need a relay? -thanks

alright so i finished the project, and this post is for future reference to this thread for anyone thats going to do the shifter bushings in the future. apparently the 2WD and 4WD have different bushings on the piece im pointing to in the first picture, as you can see, the black rubberishplastic bushing is bigger, i ended up using the metal tube that came out of the 2WD since the 4WD uses a bolt and no tube, then i wrapped it in Aluminum tape, or metal duct tape to make it a tight fit, the homemade bushing actually worked out pretty good. and the pin(s), turned out there was only one pin and not 2, im not sure if mine has been changed or i have some weird year model one but the pin was mushrooming out on me and was unusable after i had gotten it out, lucky i even got it out in the first place, so i used a bolt and a nut as a replacement for easier removal in the future (2nd picture). this is how it was on my 1993 impreza, a bolt and a nut instead of a roll pin) so this makes me sure it wount fail on me since i abuse the shifter way more on the impreza than my GL Wagon, again not sure if my impreza came like that from factory or is actually suppose to have a pin(s). i made sure i put the bolt from ontop and the nut on the bottom incase for any reason the nut undoes itself and your left with no shifter while driving, i will be placing another nut as a safety later to lock them together. also as colemanapp and TomRhere have stated, the spring is everything, the bushings mostly only cure the play that goes foward and back, they do cure the side to side alittle but the side to side is up to the spring mostly. another thing, that rattling noise that my shifter was making was not the amount of play that the bushings had, but instead it was the 4WD button on the shifter vibrating and rattling around, so i will be moving the 4WD soon to possibly next to the fan speed (where the intermediate knob is for the wipers on higher trim vehicles). again thank you everyone for your help, removing those 2 bolts to that 2nd arm on the shifter gave me all the room i needed