Subasaurus

i remember the distributor issue i had lol, that was fun, ended up just buying a remanufactured one ($200) they were all gone (for a reason) also how are you going to test anything with a cheap meter? its unreliable. and so are the parts you got, would make me really mad when i would get something at the junkyard, and it wouldn't work, and how was the radio bracket a pain? phillips stripped? subaru does put them pretty tight if no one had taken them off before. coils aren't too expensive for new ones btw, the same one that goes there costs about $25 while the yellow more powerful one is $32ish, cant remember too well now. i used to sneak in a 9volt battery in to test things out with since its total bs that they dont let you test the stuff before you buy it, ofcourse you can't since they don't have enough money already buying cars for $125.

thats probably why i never take my vehicle to the dealership just for an oil change, or for anything for that matter, whoever does just for oil should be smaked. unless ofcourse you own a mercedes and cant remove the oil filter since they take a dealership tool.. and just because its OE Subaru Filter doesn't mean its better than Mobil 1 or K&N, i never use subaru filters and now i have more of a reason not to use one!

i had this problem too, when i would step on the pedal more than half-full, it would bog down but only when i was in the 3,500rpm-6,000 range, i tried everything from the injector to the fuel pump to the regulators to fuel filter, turned out it was my catalytic converter, i gutted it (2cats) and wala, i got like 30 more hp and dont have to let go of the throttle just to make it past 3,500rpm, i have full range of my pedal and rpms now. hope this helps. if thats even the problem. and check your state laws if your going to gut it, in Texas if a vehicle is over 25years old, its exempt from emissions.

those cheap 3 LEDs circles with double headed tape, stick 3 of em up there and they seem to be fine, never use them unless im on the side of the highway at night. try a chevy van hood lamp, when you tilt them, they come on, one of my friends had one on his 3000gt.

and my gf was mad at me for not finding a wagon with the automatic belts, glad i didn't now!

My parts vehicle (1990 Loyale) has the inboard A/C and my daily driver (1989 GL) has the A/C thats by the battery, the old A/C that was on my GL was made by KIKI DIESEL, thats all i knew, well it was almost impossible to find a replacement but apparently some nissan or something fitted mine so there it is now, my question is, if my A/C or alternator are compatible with this other version of the EA82? and why did subaru make 2versions of how the A/C mounted on the engine? if there is a way to mount these into my other engine? it would be nice to have spares. thanks! 1st picture is 1990 Loyale (blue) 2nd picture is 1989 GL (tanish)

if you say so, but like mudduck said open one up and compare it to another, and perhaps your family bought them because their the cheapest filters, and the tick speaks for itself, tried to help but if your not willing to change the most simplest thing (oil filter) i cant help. you also gotta remember that this is one of subarus first unleaded engine, and hydraulic lifters, so it ain't perfect but its a tough little engine, thats why people say the EA82 was the worst subaru engine but i dont agree to it as long as you keep up with maintenance.

i have one more solution for you (cheap route) flush your radiator and get a beck n arnley radiator thermostat, this will keep your oil from thinning out so much and getting so hot, this is where my vehicle sits after a 35min drive on the highway, note the temp, yes its working and so is the oil pressure gauge, this is as hot as my vehicle gets, but i went all out on mine and hours of working on it, you might want to try this first before spending alot of money when it was something else, also make sure your electric fan works, they seem to fail frequently because of a wiring problem that subaru did to the factory harnesses.

forgot you have an EA82 after 1992, they came without a battery gauge and oil gauge.. 10-40 is the most you want to go, im sure you noticed power difference, im sorry but the gasket you bought for $14ish bucks was useless, buy a bottle of lucas for your oil, keep running until your next oil change, meanwhile buy a motor flush bottle ($5) once you pour this bottle in, run your car at idle once warmed up for 10min, then drain the oil, note: motor flush kills your oil but cleans your hydrolifters and any other gunk that will help with the tick, at that time, install a new oil pump, (note the oil pump i bought on ebay does not come with a seal so you can either reuse or buy another) and im so sorry but theres only one person that i know of that carries it, my dealership does not, maybe yours but the price i bought mine was $165. apparently after a year its gone up another $10. this person i did not buy it from, so please do your research and ask the seller questions if thats the route you want to go. http://m.ebay.com/itm/151058356833?nav=SEARCHthis will fix your tick of death, it hurts to spend a bunch of money, but thats the route i took to fix the tick that drove me insane. also if you don't want to go that extreme yet, just buy motor flush oil on your next oil change and add either motor oil or full synthetic motor oil but make sure its HIGH MILEAGE oil, this oil has additives that helps with vehicles with high mileage. if you are going to take the extreme route, DO NOT leave your vehicle with no oil for more than 5hours, i left mine overnight since i was tired of working on it that day and the next morning after finishing it had a collapsed lifter, sounded like it threw a rod, anyways i went to the junkyard, and replaced all the lifters on my vehicle from another that had 120,000miles. theres lots of routes you can take, you can replace all the lifters off of another car but its risky, new lifters cost at autozone $84 dollars each, ouch. let me know if you have anymore questions, i was on the same boat as you a year ago.

nope because thats the transmission everybody wants, including me, good luck

lol

also what's your oil psi? it should be between 8-14ish, mine is around 15ish (this is idling and already warmed up) this will be inaccurate if you haven't changed the oil pressure sender thats on the oil pump itself, its a large (a half dollar coin size) sensor with 1 wire coming out of it, theres another one thats alot smaller thats a dummy light for the GL-10, if its at 0psi when idling then thats part of the problem, yes i know these guages are somewhat innacurate but being at 0psi is about 4ish-5psi, anyless than 4 actual psi and you will throw a rod and abunch of ugly stuff starts to happen, the engine needs atleast 4psi to lubricate correctly and all the oil rails to be working and functioning correctly. have you replaced the pressure sender sensor? they are pricey, $30-60 for a new one, depending where you get one from, unless yours is still functioning correctly compared to the $10 dummy GL-10 light

so the drivers side has a taller spring than the passenger? wait we can't go by driver or passenger, who are we talking about here, is the left front taller or right front? im guessing the left front is taller due to the rotation of the engine and trying to push down on the front left (my drivers side) and pulling up on the front right, and my battery is on the left, are RHD vehicles batteries on the right? also the gray dot meaning above the coil, as seen in this picture.

the Tick Of Death refers to the resale value of the car more than anything, no the engine isn't going to die soon or anything, its just annoying and worthless to the world, i replaced my oil pump with the seal, thats how i fixed my TOD, replacing the mickey mouse seal also works but depends on how the previous owner took care of the engine and how often the oil changes happened because that will be visible in the oil pump as it is in the engine, also justy's were only 1.2L in the U.S? how did you confuse a 1.8L with a 1.2L? also if you go heavier on the oil, you do loose alittle HP, just a quick fact there, the lighter the more power but ofcourse, the more wear, unless your engine is new.

i don't know anything about justy's except that their a 3banger transverse engine like a honda engine, besides that, your on your own on justy's but these engines can go a long way even with a low quality filter so you should be fine either way.

i dont use fram filters since i think those are the lowest quality, i usually buy WIX or K&N filters with full synthetic 10w-30, used to use 10w-40 before replacing the oil pump, i like how the wix filters fit on the oil pump, never had an issue with oil seeping through, but do know that fram ($3-5) to wix ($10-11) and k&n ($12-15). and i made the same mistake when i bought my first oil filter, you probably bought an impreza 1.8L ej18 oil filter. the EA82s oil filters are quite bigger. since im usually buying WIX the part number is 51361. also 1985-1994 is the same oil filter for DLs, GLs, Loyales, not sure about the turbo GL-10though. did you thread in the smaller filter? if im correct, it wouldn't have threaded in.

08/89 Subaru Loyale Wagon (Struts)DriverFront=Purple and White on coil (Struts)PassFront=Purple and Yellow on coil DriverRear=Gray dot with Orange and White on coil PassRear=Gray dot with Orange and White on coil U.S. vehicle, Drivers Side is on the left

does 25-28mpg on city driving and 33-34mpg highway sound right? i do have like 60 pounds of tools in the back lol, but remember i did gut the catalytic converter, seems that the O2 sensor was in the first catalytic, but its inbetween the Y pipe, so im not sure if its reading the before, or after catalytic converter. also my engine starts right up in the first crank (.5-1second) if i overcrank it (1-2seconds) it floods the engine and i have to crank on it for about 4-8seconds with my pedal halfway down and it'll start up again. and no black smoke or any of that, engine is very happy for all i know.

will anything improve if i fix it?? i think the computer knows its broken so it just went to default i guess?? i have no idea, but would fixing it improve anything or will everything stay the same?

that is probably why i had to remove the catalytic converter since it was making so much noise and when i went to gut it a couple weeks ago, it was all in pieces, i have so much power now that its gone, and better MPG ofcourse

yeah it works since it always turns on when i unplug the mass airflow sensor. and ive driven the car for days with it unplugged and plugged and it does nothing or affect driving or power or gas or anything. i also have 2 extra computer boxes from other cars and ive swapped it with one (silver box model is the one my car takes) and still nothing, also when i put it in 4WD, no dash light comes on? but it does work since i cant do a burnout when the button is pushed but it does a burnout easily when its in FWD

so lets say its not working at the moment, i cant check currently since its raining but if its not working and i got it to work.. i could get a check engine light right?

if the O2 sensor has 1 orange wire going to it on my 89 GL, howcome it does nothing when i unplug it? not even a check engine light? ive left it unplugged for a couple of days to see if there was any difference but all it did was nothing, could some one tell me whats going on? (i have recently removed the catalytic converter about 2weeks ago since its over 25years old and im exempt from emissions) sorry about asking one of my questions here _CJ_ just dont want to make a whole thread if it can be solved by 1 answer..

i need to find another transmission soon also for my 89gl, 2nd and 3rd love to grind gears no matter how deep i push the clutch or how softly i put it in gear, your not the only one looking for one.

yup, safety, incase you break a line, that would be bad if it wasn't for this.