Subasaurus

The End. i no longer have anything EA82 in my possesion, pulled out completely from them. Next project i'll be tackling is a 1968 Peugeot 404 for those wondering.

once you get that vehicle running, few things to note, if the vehicle backfires after turning the vehicle off, either you need to add a capacitor to the distributor, replace the capacitor if it already has one, your timing is too advanced, or your fuel jets are too big and either need to decrease on them or replace the jets from wear and tear. dieseling? try hooking up a vacuum gauge, calibrate your air to fuel mixture until you reach around 18 inches of mercury (or more if the vacuum lines and piston rings are of that great of shape), keep going until that vacuum needle begins to dance around (becoming unstable and starts decreasing), then go back half a turn, that should do it.

i pulled the engine, removed the head, beautiful cylinders actually, i found the problem though, looks like when the vehicle was in the states in the 70's, the head gasket was failing, water going into one of the pushrod chambers so they removed the head and put orange RTV on the headgasket, guess it was a different story in the 70's with no internet to order parts for a foreign vehicle like this, blowing the engine completely apart now to unseize everything.

that points distributor can't be modified to work, the 4 pointed diamond on the shaft is different, i already went down this road a year ago, and again 3 years ago. my 79 wagon's ignition control module went out, so since i couldn't find a replacement since it's a 1 year oddball, i just went to Autozone and special ordered a 1975 Subaru GL distributor (you'll have to know people in the back since only commercial accounts can order this in store, im sure there's some online) and converted the wagon to points, the shaft that goes in the block is like a hair too wide, so it will need to be sanded down just by hand for about 2 minutes, it's barely any, and then modify the plate to bolt and hold the distributor in place since the screw on the point's type comes from underneath, unless you have that plate already from factory, 8 degrees BTDC is where mine is at, good power, and it doesn't pick up too much temperature yet. the dwell for the points gap i think if i remember correctly is .028in, would have to look at my book. also the spade terminal poking out of the distributor goes to the negative on the coil, that's your signal wire. just keep in mind, that vacuum advancer on the points type distributors is really rare, suck on it and see if the internals move, that's how one would test it, if it doesn't work, the car will only have about 1/10th of the power, and back fire like crazy, but it'll idle just fine. for electronic magnetic pick up distributor type, you'll need a different style shaft on the distributor, different plate for the things to sit on, and that half circle that's a weak magnet that picks upsignals from the shaft. theres a blue and red wire that plugs in to the half circle moon looking thing in the electronic distributor.

it's heavy too!

don't remind me... it was just something super unique i liked, have always liked tail fins on American cars from the 50's and 60's cars, but everyone wants too much, how strange would it be going down american roads in a french car with fins on it? theres alot of strangeness in this vehicle, 4 on the tree with a reverse, wipers wipe the wrong way, ignition switch in the wrong place, blinkers on the wrong side, while the side that's suppose to have the blinkers has an electronic 5th overdrive lever switch not to be confused with the blinker system. still can't find the headlight switch so they just stay on everytime i connect the battery, E-brake is under the dash like a Toyota, but it's a sideways lever and on the left side, opening the hood looks like a choke lever, to unlock the doors you push down on the nipple that pokes out the door (backwards). 2 sets of shocks and springs on the rear live axle, 15/16 size lugnuts which is massive, the driveshaft is fully enclosed and is infact connected from the differential to the transmission to avoid torque movements so that the body doesn't take it, oh and it has a manual crank feature on the front of the crank with a direct hole going through the bumper that you can see like how a Model T would be started.... and ofcourse the American plates don't fit properly on the rear of this Wagon. any ideas on unseizing an engine besides Mystery Oil that's currently being soaked by the rings as we speak?

just bought a 1968 Peugeot 404 for $200, and i don't know a thing about this car, i was looking for a Russian Lada or a Peugeot since i've always wanted one, but now i don't know what to do next... this Peugeot was bought New from Paris France while the owner was in the U.S. military, then it participated in some marathon thing in Africa at the beginning of it's life with some sticker in the rear window, then it was brought over to Virginia with the help of the U.S Military since the owner of it was in the military, then spent some time in Baltimore, and lastly New Jersey where it got some of the rust it currently has. the Wagon was parked running in 1978 or so due to a rust issue with the driver shock tower that the owner was going to fix, but lost interest in the car due to oil prices coming back down, and he bought himself a Pontiac, he filled all 4 pistons with oil and put the spark plugs back in it before abandoning it for 40 years, that's why the fenders and hood are in worse shape than the rest of the car, they were left outside in the weather. it's a One Owner Vehicle, me being the Second. i can't turn the crank with a giant pipe wrench, and im scared to put too much force on it because the giant crank nut feels cast and fragile to me, and i've already tried pulling the car in the street and popping the clutch to hopefully break it loose, and nothing, just a bunch of tire skidding, i filled the cylinders up with mystery oil last night to let it sit for a few days before attempting to move the crank again, is this what i should do? what do i do now? im scared to blow the engine apart due to the lack of parts, im almost sure there's less than 10 of these in the whole United States, and most are probably in Museums.

also is this the only mudflap you'll ever be posting? or will the other 3 eventually come up as individuals? or will there be a set of 4 comming up for sale eventually?

gen 1 are the little rectangles that are made out of metal and the threads are super delicate and very easy to strip, including the phillips head that goes in them, that's what holds my chrome trim around the bed on.

where are these first gen brat bed trim clips from Paul? i don't recall, and i honestly have no idea where they even go. just seeing if i need them lol. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Brat-Bed-Trim-Clips/123490187478?hash=item1cc096b8d6:g:jusAAOSwA29b7LKT:rk:4:pf:0

yup, some funds for the other 2 that im sure are in desperate need, or sacrifice the worst condition one to feed extra parts and options the others don't have, in my own opinion, it's silly to have 3 and trying to restore all 3, it was too much for me when i had 2, i was always tempted to steal a part from one and bring it to the other, thats why i sold my 79 wagon and kept the brat lol.

here's the left side for your brat, being sold by one of the forum members here named "Moosens". EA71 parts are really hard to find, just be aware of that. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Brat-Brumby-1977-81-Left-Tail-Light/123478246204?hash=item1cbfe0833c:g:2L4AAOSwULVb5I4G:rk:10:pf:0

i just replaced the seats in my 1980 brat last night actually, used some from an EA82 since i have 3 parts vehicles of those in my backyard, you gotta weld a plate 2 inches over on one side (meaning do it for both of one side) since the EA82 seats are 2 inches wider than the EA71 seats, they are very nice though, and fills in that gap between the seat and door you currently have, now for that last rear inner bolt hole, i didn't weld a plate in since i got lazy, and plus it doesn't really need it, i feel no wobble or anything, but that's completely up to you, it's easy, just gotta weld a flat plate in the right place with the right measurements and drill a big enough hole. oh almost forgot, there's this bracket plate thing that sticks down lower than the rails, you'll need to remove this plate to achieve a flat surface area, you need to drill out all of Subaru's spot welds on it from underneath, i think there's 5 on the longer piece, and 2 on the short one.

lucky day for you! Moosens happens to have one posted pretty cheap! here it is! so you don't have to search for it, how convenient! https://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-Factory-Servce-Manual-MSA-108-Revised-January-1978-1600/123466299079?hash=item1cbf2a36c7:g:GZUAAOSwVW9bo7dF:rk:39:pf:0

it always happens to me with the ground spade terminal plug, this is the only vehicle i have that has that extra plug, always forget when i take it apart to get to something else...

probably damaged it when installing it, happened to me once 2 years ago, when it's installed, put your pinky finger in there and turn it and feel for any bumps, gosh that sounded weird, anyways it should be perfectly smooth with no imperfections, they're very delicate, try tapping it in next time only by the outside ring of the bearing.

i don't understand why everyone says mice will infest and eat through wires if a car is left sitting say in a backyard, is this like an up north thing? i've never encountered this problem after many years of cars sitting in different places, my own backyard, parents backyards, when i buy a car that's been sitting in a field for 10years+, only issue i've ever come across was Wasps, yellow and red types, still not sure if im allergic to them....

checking on you on a daily basis to see what new pops up on your listings, and i do gotta say, those tailights for the FF-1 Wagon are just insane, especially in New Condition, really awesome stuff there Paul! still waiting for the mudflaps to pop up hope the harsh cold doesn't get there before most things are out of storage!

don't think so. dealer added foglights had the switch on the left of the dash on the bottom (next to where the choke lever would be) factory added foglights had it on the top next to the defroster switch, so in other words, it's impossible to have every hole filled in and actually be properly functional, the factory thought about dealer added items and factory added items, 2 possible places for them on your dash just incase.

same with mine, not sure why every EA71 i've come across never has power to the wire where it's suppose to feed to the fuel pump, i just tap in where the ignition coil gets it's power from. that charge light is actually fairly accurate, trust it, if it's on, something isn't right.

it is a subaru part, i have that same bracket with the dealer added A/C. only EA82's that had no A/C but paid extra to have the A/C added to a specific EA82 that you liked got this bracket.

omg

finding every individual different piece that's "suppose" to belong there will be harder than finding a 1954 P1 Subaru, just remembered, one of those bottom ones was for activating the air suspension that some GL-10's came with, and it was an expensive option that rarely anyone got, finding a GL-10 is already really rare by itself, let alone the digi dash and air suspension. why don't you just find a bunch of any of the 5 switches and fill in the blanks that way? ofcourse except for the defroster because that one has the different styling to it that can only correspond there, that will pretty much be the only way to fill them all in.

heres the middle one for you so you can finish your collection lol i used to remember the bottom left one, i'll have to come back to you.

flying saucers? with a center bolt?