McChalium

Good evening. Well it pretty definitely isn't the MAF sensor. I swapped another in yesterday out of a newer Legacy and got exactly the same symptom. I haven't looked for the sparks yet but may do that this evening. A local shop that deals in Used Subarus and repairs them as well suggested that the Air bypass valve could be the problem, but its 219 bucks so I'm gonna go for the O2 sensor first. The guy that runs the local shop lent me his 1992 Legacy Factory Shop Manual so I could study and learn more about it. How's that for friendly?

There is a guy I know near where I live who may have a MAF I can borrow for that test. I'll ask him.

LOL! I never thought about deliberately spraying the wires. Will try that tonight. I do have a couple of vacuum gauges, one very good one and several that I would class as general purpose. What is the test you are thinking of?

Let's see, new plugs (NGK), new wires, new gas and air filters, cleaned MAF, checked fuel pressure w/wo vacuum applied to the regulator, what else could one do for a tuneup when everything else is computer controlled? While I can't say 100% for sure, I do not think I am plagued by "sparklies" due to the fact that the wires are new and sealed with silicone grease. I have thought that maybe the coils are breaking down but decided no because the engine runs strong anywhere above 1200 RPM and I don't think a coil that was breaking down would support that. I've gone looking for vacuum leaks but haven't found any. As you might guess I am frustrated by this because I like to find an actual failure before I replace something. Anyone know what kind of signal levels I should see coming from the crank and cam sensors using an oscilloscope?

I also cleaned my MAF with the special (?) CRC MAF cleaner and compressed air but it had no effect as well. Thanks for your tip about EBAY, easier than going to pick and pull. What about the O2 sensor? Mine may be as old as the car.

Wire brand unknown now but they are grey with red plug boots and the wires are marked made in USA. There is no oil present on the boots. Other than listening and looking for arcing I have not checked for leakage at the coil towers. The idea that moisture was getting in there is what prompted me to replace the wires. I used silicone grease to seal the towers to the wires. I'll give your unplug/plug idea a go tonight after work. I wondered why there were two different speed sensors on the engine and speculated that the cam sensor was igniton since it runs at same speed as distributors in older cars. Judging from the way the engine reacts when these events occur I suspected fuel delivery from the beginning, but did not suspect the cam sensor because I thought it was for ignition. They sure leave a lot of useful info out of the Chilton Manuals. I'll never buy another of those.

My 2.2l Legacy engine will slow down below a normal idle to about 500 RPM and then quit suddenly, usually while waiting at a stop sign or light. 240000 miles, o2 sensor maybe never changed. (I am not the first owner, just the latest) Fuel pump and strainer is new as is the fuel filter. Fuel pressure is about 35 PSI, 40 psi when vacuum hose is disconnected from the regulator. Problem is more acute when the weather is wet, either rain or dew. New plugs and wires. Engine will rev freely to redline and pulls like a tractor over 2000 rpm. Below that, it is subject to quick jerks that I interpret as momentary stalls and below about 1200 RPM it will stall out suddenly, usually at stops while in gear. I have an automatic transmission. The ECU reads out a 13 DTC which should be a faulty cam position sensor, but as mentioned before the engine is strong and does not seem to misbehave above 2000 RPM. Also the alternator recently died while enroute from work to home and the whole shebang died and left me in the dark on a back country road. When the engine finally died during that episode it could have caused the ECU to store a DTC 13. It never lit the check engine light. No complaints in the ECU about anything else including the O2 sensor or MAF sensor. Under load such as driving uphill the engine starts to shake at about 60 MPH and smooths out about 70 or if you back off the throtle. Had the wheel balance checked, it was okay. I plan to reset the DTC to see if the 13 code comes back before replacing the expensive CAM Position Sensor, but I am planning to replace the O2 sensor on general tuneup principles soon. I have noticed in other cars I own that an old O2 sensor can cause driveability problems, some that you might not suspect are related to that sensors function. Maybe clean the MAF also. Does anyone out there have experience with these kinds of symptoms? I would like to hear from you is so.

Hello, I own a 92 Legacy Wagon which I use as my daily driver (and Ham Radio mobile station). It has developed a problem that I have been unable to track down so I thought I'd give this forum a try. I appreciate any help offered.