lstevens76

I want to build a Frankenmotor for it, but I want time to do it so I can do it right. EJ251 Block w/ EJ22 Phase 2 heads, STI Head gaskets, all OEM gaskets otherwise, full valve job, etc.... To do that I need time which is why this EJ22 Phase 2 is going in. And I have a hoist, just fighting one nut.

You should still find out when the timing belt and components were last changed so you know if they need done or not. It's a lot easier to do them before it snaps while your going down the interstate.

Yeah we are more than happy to turn away from scantily clad models but at this time embrace so much violence it's reflected in the younger generations.

If that is a late '99 with an SOHC motor it might work, but the 2002 didn't come with a 2.5L DOHC that I've ever known of (The H6 Engines are DOHC). '99 was the last year for the EJ25D DOHC engine in the USDM and '00 was the first year for the EJ251 in the USDM for the Legacy. Now, if your in a different country that could be different because the EJ251 was introduced up to two years earlier in other countries.

It's not the miles, it's the age and location. The '96 OBS I had and my '00 OBS both are near or were over 200k miles and have no problems with rust. The difference is the '96 was an all over west coast car (california, idaho, nevada, etc...) and the '00 OBS is a strictly Idaho car (lived here it's whole life). We have very minor, if any, rust issues here. Especially when comparing to the East coast where I've seen pictures of cars 10 years old that are rust buckets.

He got 4 New "70K Mileage" tires. I.E. they are expected to last 70,000 miles on a passenger car.

Uhm the recommended interval change for most timing belts is AFTER the warranty has expired. Most manufacturers now have a 100k+ interval change. On top of that no warranty is going to cover a snapped timing belt, bad tensioner, or failrd idler if it was not replaced or inspected at the recommended time. And a timing belt requires less power to move than a timing chain which increase engine power.

You can find the FSM here: Service Manuals

Everything since 1998 has been interference. And a timing belt break or tooth slippage is not a guaranteed destruction. You can find threads here and elsewhere that these things have happened and the engine was ok. That being said, if it hasn't broke and it's due, overdue, or you have concerns get it replaced or checked out. Just because it doesn't destroy something everytime doesn't mean yours won't do major damage if it fails. If it has failed the only way your going to know is to put a belt on it and find out or tear the engine down.

"with another remote if you have one or by turning the key ON LOCK 3 times in 5 seconds" That's the disarm instructions from cars101.Com for an 03 outback. But you could be chasing a ghost that is the cause of why it was where it was.......

Ok, the primary fan will only come on when the engine reaches a certain temperature. The secondary fan comes on when the engine exceeds that temp to the second high temp point (think it's 30 degrees hotter (fahrenheit). Unless you changed your heads those are hydraulic lifters. In my 96 OBS they made one hell of a racket while they reloaded and were completely quiet within 20 miles of driving. There is a green connector under the dash, two plugs. Plug them in. Your fans will start cycling and it will tell if you if they are both hooked up correctly and working. Do that "AFTER" making sure you plugged them back in snuggly. It's easy to miss something when your putting it back together and not realize it.

Hmm, the fsm describes the "ignitor and ignition coil" as one unit for my 2000 OBS (4 wire) vrs the older ones ('97 and older) as being the 3 wire w/ the igniter on the firewall.

It was a nice find, and then I found a good running Phase 2 EJ22 for $100 for it as well. Just trying to find an engine hoist since I'm down to 5 transmission bolts and ready to swap it.

1996 and 1997 should actually be the same. It was 1998 when they put the igniter I the coil. You have more parts with the older setup but if the igniter fails you aren't looking at having to replace the whole coil.

Those readings are consistently off by 2 to 3 MPG, but even with that your talking 48mpg. I'll bet Wolfman travels the speed limit, steading easy acceleration, and things like that. A good example: I took my Durango to Reno night before last. Having left late (8PM) for that drive I rushed. I was averaging 70mph in areas of 55mph, and if it was 65mph I was doing 80mph. Using the cruise I still managed to pull off 17mpg though. Here's the kicker. On the way back I was moving slow, for various reasons, and I was watching my readouts (like what he has posted above) and I averaged over 21mpg on a 4.7l V8 from 30 miles outside of Reno to Boise, ID. The difference? My average speed was closer to 55mph than 75mph like the night before. Most vehicles and there transmissions, including newer ones, are optimized for economy at the posted speed limit. They are also designed for steady acceleration, not rapid take offs, etc... It's all in the way you drive. Oh, and my Durango is a 2001 with 200k miles on the engine, so it has less to do with the age of the car as it has to do with how you drive.

Well picked up the engine and I hope to put it in tomorrow. But after that journey I need a good nights sleep. I was pilot car for my cousin and the person driving his moving truck. We didn't go fast, made a lot more stops than I would have solo, etc... Was a long trip back.

I have a mechanics stethoscope and I couldn't here the noise in the block really, but majorly in the passenger side head. Either way, I'm in Reno picking up an engine. I told fairtax and will post up other info tomorrow but in going to put this engine in. Once it's in I'll through the one in it now on a stand and figure out wth is going on with it.

Well either the heads have damage I can't see, or I'm wrong on where it is coming from. I'm considering doing a compression test, but I'm waiting to hear from my cousin. There's a '99 EJ22 in Reno and my cousin is moving from there for $300 asking price. (Would offer less). I'm waiting to hear if he has room. If he does I'm going to pick that up, if he doesn't I'll go get a compression tester and see wtf is going on. A rod/bearing should not affect compression but messed up valves will.

They are 10mm actually. And the front passenger side (the spot w/ the most noise) was off by over .15+mm (.02mm +_ is the only leverage the FSM gives) so.................. Corrected because I looked at my gauge and was putting the .35mm in and still had some slop w/ it (not much) and it was supposed to be .20 +- .02mm.

Does anyone know what size the nut is on the valve adjustment? I'm heading to buy a set of ratcheting wrenches and want the right size for that in the set ad well as the other size I need if possible.

As long as the heat doesn't kill me today (another 102 day) I will pull both sides off and check lash adjustment. Someone local has a set of EJ222 Heads (phase 2) if it comes to that, but if I can get it a lot quieter I'll probably drive it for awhile and build an engine to put in it.

And I did put a stethoscope on it. To me it sounds a lot more like it's coming from the passenger side head than the center or the drivers side. And when I took this video there were no accessory belts on it either, which rules that out.

I've seen it on a Honda. Piston right through the side of the block on an '82 Honda Accord. And no, it doesn't sound like to me either. A little more history here helps. It was at one point 2 quarts low on oil and it was 14k miles overdue for an oil change. I'm really thinking head problems personally, but that's why I put the MMO + a full oil change in it to try and clear out any clogged up things. When I changed the oil I found no shavings/metal in the oil either nor in the filter.

If he wasn't being pro-active, knows to turn the defroster on, etc... I would agree. But I doubt he will ever let it get hot enough to blow a head gasket before resolving it.

Unplug the cam sensor and put an ohm meter on it.