lstevens76

Just want confirmation this is a rod knock. Every rod knock I've ever heard doesn't sound this bad, the piston usually comes out of the block before it sounds like this. I could be wrong and it could be valves. I unplugged each plug while it was running one at a time and couldn't lessen the sound either. All new timing components, etc.... as well so that's not it. I was hoping it was timing components, but nope.

Ok, I will say I don't do well work outside in the sun in 100 degree weather and Kevin was right, I missed something stupid and basic and feel completely stupid. I thought more than once, and even pointed it out to someone else, that the crank pulley just didn't look positioned right. Well it wasn't. It had scooted out a little bit, just enough to not be making proper contact with the sensor. But having spare sensors is never a bad thing. The bad news I'll post in another thread.

Ok, cam sensor replaced with a known good one (out of my '96 OBS that was running when I replaced it). Crankshaft position sensor replaced with new one. ECU swapped for a different one. Coil swapped for a used "supposed good" one. Still no spark............... The OBD2 Live data feed shows the RPMs (about 114 when cranking). If I understand correctly that is the crankshaft position sensor so the ECU is getting a reading from it. Check engine light does come on. Reader does connect to computer.

I'll try that, but I'm at a loss. The obd2 reader I'm using gives live data and I'm getting an RPM reading on it when cranking. I swapped the ECU ($135) and still no spark. I've checked the ground on the intake and a few other grounds. I've replaced the crankshaft position sensor and everything looks ok. I'm at a WTF point and it's starting to piss me off.

I'm going to bump this for myself (keeps getting lost) and others looking for factory service manuals. That link to SLI-Net (second one that wtdash posted) is better than any other I have found for downloading them.

I'm not a "certified" mechanic yet (working on it) but I grew up around cars and mechanics and I've worked on at least 4 or 5 dozen cars in my life that have had slight overheating problems. Out of those only 2 turned out to be radiators. I'm not discounting the possibility but on a car in good condition at 86,000 miles I would be more likely to lean towards a sticky thermostat, malfunctioning fan, or a failing water pump. Based on what the OP said I think starting with the thermostat is a good point, but I also agree with others (and as I mentioned) that if the timing belt hasn't been done then it needs done which would include replacing the water pump. It's very possible the water pump is showing it's age in this scenario as well. But, so the OP understands this, what we are all saying is it is either a flow issue with the coolant or it is a air flow issue and the radiator isn't getting enough airflow to cool down properly. Which raises a question I don't think anyone has asked, but have you checked to see how many bugs, dirt, debris, etc... are stuck to the front of the condenser (if it has AC) or are in between the Radiator and Condenser?

Actually, that doesn't mean that. It could mean a failing thermostat. It could mean a failing water pump. It could mean old bad coolant on a hot day................... What it does mean is that the heater core is unclogged and allowing additional circulation and removal of heat.

It's confirmed, bad ECU it seems. How rare is this? LKQ local here has one, but they don't list mileage. It's out of a '99. I couldn't identify what subaru calls it so I couldn't even look for what a new OEM one might cost. Thanks

Ok, explain this better. I disconnected the crankshaft position sensor to try and get it to trip a code. The check engine light does not turn off after a few seconds but remains on. The code reader will connect to the computer, reads the MIL as on, but no diagnostic trouble codes. When testing at the coil with the harness connector unplugged and during cranking I get no voltage at pins 1 & 4. With the harness connected and pushing the lead on the multimeter into the connector I occasionally get a .1 to .3, I think I might have seen 1v once, power to pins 1 and 4. So far this leads me to believe the ECU is probably bad. Oh, and the cruise did not work when I purchased it either.

Lets add some more info. Code Reader says: MIL: ON DTC: 0 I pulled the Crankshaft position sensor and attempted to start it then checked for codes and still got no codes. Thinking fried ECU.

Ok, so I borrowed a coil and a code reader. Although no DTC I decided to replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor since I swapped the coil w/ one from a friend. Still little to no spark from the coil so I started more testing based on the FSM. I tested for the 10v+ on Pin 3 of the connector, it's there. I then did this test: Check if voltage varies synchronously with engine speed when cranking, while monitoring voltage between ignition coil & ignitor assembly connector and engine ground. It says to use pin 4 so I did. I got nothing. No voltage what so ever.............

I would think strut mounts or ball joints first. You should be able to Google how to test them. Not sure a stethoscope will help with those.

Have you checked your ball joints, struts, strut mounts, and tie-rods?

Seriously, just check your fluid. It takes a couple of minutes. Just because you don't see a drip doesn't mean it isn't leaking occasionally, or specifically while under pressure while driving.

So you changed the fluid 4 months ago and haven't checked it since? If you have a leak you could be down by 3 quarts and that could be causing your problem..............................

Out of the blue isn't it. Demanding a refund isn't it. Claiming your spying on him through his car's computer................................................

I would think it would cover any "Abuse" by the owner, but not specifically off-road use. That's two different aspects there. You can go off-road and have fun going up in the mountains and stuff, but then you can go off-road and do things that abuse the vehicle and blow an engine or crack an oil pan as well. There is a difference.

No, that is to be expected. Turning the heater on basically adds a second radiator. Coolant flows into the heater core and the blower motor pushes that heat into the cabin of the car cooling down that heater core, and thus cooling the coolant and the engine. On an EJ22 with only 86k and well taken care of the last thing I would suspect is a head gasket. That being said, if the water pump and a coolant change has never been done the culprit could be both of those. And if your going in far enough to do the water pump your best to do the whole timing kit.

Definitely worth it, but here's your possible issues: Struts Wheel Bearings Transmission (Make sure it engages immediately with no delay to reverse and drive) Radiator Misc. electronics Axles Differentials One good drive though will tell you if any of these have problems.

I was thinking the same thing as Heartless that if it hasn't been done, it's overdue for a timing belt kit. And by mileage it is actually 26k over due. Heartless is probably thinking of the 2.5L and the Phase 2 2.2L that are at 105K. That engine is supposed to have it done every 60k. This kit includes an Aisin water pump + a tensioner and it's what I put on my '96 OBS: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NLLH74C?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 No matter what you paid for the car, this is something that is considered routine maintenance and doing so ensures you get another 60k out of those components. When you figure that in, it basically pays for itself. Most Subaru, Honda, and Toyota cars (along with many other manufacturers) use Timing Belts so it isn't a Subaru specific thing, nor is the recommendation to change it. And the timing belt w/ components can be done by a DIY'er in about 4 to 5 hours. It isn't a real difficult job, just time consuming.

Yesterday I pulled the plug wires from the wrong end (like an idiot) when testing for the knock noise. I.E. disconnect each plug wire one at a time and find out if the sound changes (which it never did alter at all). During this I could see the spark, very obviously, coming off the coil. It would arc right down to the block and ground there. Tonight when I tested it where i could see (instead of me being the one cranking the key) I had no spark, but occasionally (like once every 3 or 4 seconds) I would see a single arc come off that coil, if that. Then, now that it's dark, I went out and disconnected all 4 plug wires at the coil and cranked it (since I could see the coil and it was dark enough I would be able to see any arcing) and nothing.

Go with an OEM thermostat and OEM coolant. Your total cost (get the pure stuff, not diluted coolant and buy 1 gallon of distilled water) shouldn't be more than $40/$50 depending on your dealer down there. It will take about an hour between the coolant drain and then changing the thermostat.

I guess I should add I just gave a friend of mine grief that told me I had spark earlier today. lol A couple little arcs occasionally is not spark. lol

Well I tested the secondary side and got 13.xx resistance on the coil, which is in spec. But no matter how I set my multimeter I couldn't get a reading off the primary side.

Ok, backup. I had someone come over and crank it for me. It was running yesterday when I pulled the plug wires to see if the noise changed w/ a plug unplugged and I had tons of spark. Today, well a little intermittently.....................