lstevens76

Everyone jumps straight to a compression test. It was running, idleing fine, then just shut off. No other sounds, no other symptom at the time, just shut off. And yeah, I connected the service connector and I could hear the fuel pump. I checked resistance on the crank and cam sensors, both gave 2 ohms which is within spec.

Yeah, definitely getting spark. I disconnected a plug wire at the coil and had a friend watch for spark. I am questioning the fuel pump relay due to location and the clicking noise, but when I pulled the fuel line to the rails I had fuel there. I should check it again I guess. Wish Torque would hook up without the car running.

Ok, so swapped plugs and wires with new ones. Plug wires kind of disintegrated (left 1/2 on the plug) when taking them out. Brand new battery (Les Schwab replaced it). Still no start, but have a clicking in the lower left of the dash.

I guess I'll run my battery to O'Reilly's and have them charge it then see what happens. I was just reading on a 2.5RS that wouldn't start because of the battery and I can't vouch for the battery in my grandfather's pickup that I tested with. It's an old everstart and it will start an old '87 Ranger, but they don't have the electronics this Subaru does.

Ok, I'm going to start from the beginning so you get the whole picture. I bought this car last Friday with a knock, but it didn't sound like any rod knock I've ever heard so I assumed it was probably a tensioner. I proceeded to drive it home, 23 miles, from where I purchased it. Most of this (probably 18 to 20 miles) was freeway speeds. It got "warm" not hot on the way home (very hot day) and to cool it down I of course kicked the defroster on high (so it was blowing heat directly on me) which worked. It died when at one stop sign and took a few minutes to get started, but did restart and went. Once I get home I realized there was a crack in the upper radiator housing, so I ordered a radiator. It hasn't been "Driven" since. I started it up a couple of times to listen to the noise and still couldn't verify location. So, yesterday I decided it just seemed more live valve train noise and it was "WAY" overdue for an oil change (14k miles) and I needed to drain out the 2 quarts overfull it was (other than my driving home and a short drive of about 5 miles it hadn't been driven since that happened). On the way home I had power issues going up hill, but it ran decent. I changed the oil and put 1 qt of MMO (Marvel Miracle Oil) in with 3.2 qts of oil and a new filter with the plans of letting it run for 5 minutes or so, letting it sit for a while, and repeating the process to clean the gunk out and see if I could clear up the noise................. It was running fine (other than the knock) and then just shut off. No noise, no bang, nothing new. Just literally shut off. I tried restarting it and it wouldn't start. After a ton of research I came the conclusion that: 1.) All the TB idler pulleys and the tensioner were original at 193k (I spoke with the place who did it at 130k and although they couldn't confirm they don't replace them unless they are broke). 2.) This would make a valid reason for the knock especially considering that the lower right (Passenger side) pulley I was able to shift up and down. So this morning I take to changing the water pump, tensioner, idler pulleys and belt (I know it had 30k left on it but I would rather not have to get back in until I'm ready). With all this done I tried to start, and same issue. It cranks, occasionally acts like it's almost going to start, but again won't start. I pulled the line off the fuel filter out line (to the rails) and it spurted fuel so I'm getting fuel it seems. I also changed out one plug wire, but wow are those a PITA. Even with one plug wire changed still problems. But I also noticed the plug wires are coated in oil, so it needs grommetts. And yes I know this could be a problem, but flat out no start? Any advice?

Well someone said my driver's side was off by a tooth so which side? These are my options:

It sounds like you went to Les Schwab who won't do brakes without replacing the Calipers thus increasing the price a lot. I'm not going to discount the fact a shop is doing the work and they are going to mark up the parts. You also have to figure in the shops labor. But even doing that they are about $250 high for doing a full brake job w/ resurfacing the rotors. Doing all 4 brakes with resurfacing the rotors (providing they have the equipment and aren't shipping it out) is rated at 4 hours at Automd.com. Automd.com also lists the cost for the pads (all 8 of them) at around $70 from an independent shop (not the dealer). This shop seems to want to just get money IMO. Find another reputable shop, get a second opinion, and a reasonable quote.

Ok, so I went to try and diagnose the problem today and either way it went, the car won't even start now (cranks and occasionally tries, but won't start). So I'm at the point of just ordering the parts and putting an EJ251 lower end in it w/ the EJ22 Phase 2 Heads. I've done a ton of research and I have a line on 2 different blocks (one has a spun bearing though, so may need crank work). That part is handled. Now onto the next part, which is shopping. Here is what I am looking at: ACL Bearing set .001 over http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ICTF6VY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A3RG6IQ0XGU0CF STI Turbo 2.5L Head Gaskets (OEM): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BGGBQ6Y/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1MM6MK6TUHTXN Full Gasket Set (Evergreen as I've had good luck with them except head gaskets): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MVATLTI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A131HE22U4WT5U yes it's for an 04, but 98% of those gaskets also match the Phase 2 EJ222 including valve stem seals, valve covers, spark plug grommett gaskets, etc... and that was matching them via parts.subaru.com to other vehicles. Other option for gaskets would be ITM or skipping the STI gaskets and using an Ishino gasket set (but I don't believe there gaskets will be updated). and finally: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D3QUU8U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A30UY5IZ1VQRNY Yep, threebond 1215. Am I forgetting anything? Other than maybe replacing the heater hoses/radiator hoses and I'm thinking about that just budget as well.

Little more info (and I'll add more as I get it for others). I will be going from around 142hp to probably close to 170hp (stock is 165hp for an '04 outback). And it will be going from around 149ft/lbs torque to 166 ft/lbs torque. I've also read (but won't know until I drive it) that it should have a better power curve as well.

I'm fairly certain it will be an interference motor no matter what block I use. With an older block that doesn't have domed pistons I'm looking at more clearance between the valves and the pistons which means less damage and potentially easier to save, but would still probably cause damage. But that's not something I'm concerned with considering the work I will be doing and I expect it to remain interference anyways. So, an STI is turboed which means those gaskets should be fine. The difference between using a Phase 1 Head and 2.5 Block or a Phase 2 Head and an older Phase 1 block is the coolant holes don't all line up between an EJ22 and EJ25 meaning you have to modify a stock head gasket or buy a hybrid gasket. Using the Phase 2 EJ22 heads I already have on a EJ251 Block means I can go with a stock head gasket no problem. Basically I'm not exactly building a frankenmotor. It will have a little more compression than a stock 2.5, but it will essentially be a 2.5 in place of a 2.2. Either way it's still an upgrade! So far I've found that every gasket, except the exhaust gasket, lines up between an '04 Outback and the '00 Outback Sport. This includes intake gaskets, valve cover gaskets, spark plug grommets, etc... And I know the camshaft seals are the same.

Ok, so after a ton of research it seems that when your pairing a Phase 2 EJ22 Head with a EJ251 or newer block they use the stock head gasket. So what is the best head gasket for this? OEM or Aftermarket recommendations anyone? Over at NASIOC they are commenting on the 05/06 STI head gaskets 11044AA642. Any other recommendations and please include a reason behind the recommendation. Thanks

Well I'm going to look at what should be an EJ251 block this afternoon. It's already disassembled and needs the crank turned with new bearings. It's from an 04 outback. From what he said the pistons, rings, and cylinders are all in great shape. So, if that's as he said all I need is to figure out what gaskets to buy.

So, with the '00 OBS I just bought I have 90% of the story now and I know which direction I need to go. And FYI I paid $700 for it with "parking lot dings" on the body and a normal wear (no tears) interior. The previous owner to the one I purchased it from took great care of it. The previous owner, well he was a kid that knew nothing about cars (including routine maintenance). Long story short I'm 99% sure it has lower end damage. Since that's the case I'm not looking for an EJ22 Phase 2 Block, they are hard to find anyways. I have a potential line on an EJ25x (not sure which model) short block that was not knocking when removed. I'm wondering which short blocks will line up with the EJ222 Phase 2 Heads/intake for a swap like this. Also, which gasket set is going to work? I usually go with a cheap gasket set + good brand head gaskets but the cheap gasket set doesn't cover the EJ22 Phase 2.................. Thanks in advance.

On the top of the transmission towards the front (where it mates to the engine) where the cable goes into the transmission is an adapter. This adapter goes into the transmission with a flat little piece that breaks. It's a dealer only part, about $20 IIRC. It will take about an hour to replace. Make sure you have a magnet, couple small screw drivers, deepwell 19mm (pretty sure that is the right size), and a lot of patience as you will have to get the broken piece out as well. To verify it's at the transmission disconnect the cable (it's two clips one on either side) and put a drill on it while someone watches the speedometer.

Fairtax was referring to using it to specifically check the radiator for cold spots to identified a potentially clogged radiator. What I was referring to is verifying the gauge is actually reporting correctly. It's always a possibility the problem could be the temp sender unit or the gauge itself and the car isn't overheating at all. I've only seen that once myself (not on a Subaru) and don't think it's very common, but it's always a possibility.

I'm actually suprised no one said to simply get an infrared thermometer and check the temp of the system in general. Have you had any other symptoms besides the gauge? It could be that your problem is actually in the temperature sender for the gauge (not sure if that's on the Coolant Temp Sensor or separate on that car).

Yeah, but he even said that warpage was most likely the customer's fault. Regardless of a head gasket failure you have to get an engine hot, and keep it hot, to cause warpage.

That 2.5L is prone to head gasket failure. Subaru's have some common leaks, but I would suspect valve cover gaskets and rear separator plate as the primarys. If the timing belt is due, or overdue, or they didn't do it when the timing belt was done, you can expect the front camshaft seals and crank seal to be leaking as well. Another possible leak point is the oil pump. And that fuel smell could be a fuel filler tube. Have you pulled codes on it? If the check engine light isn't on, it could be burnt out.

What's funny is he says the same thing that I already knew and did myself. The Evergreen gasket sets aren't bad, except for the head gaskets. Cheapest way to do a head gasket job on most cars is with a Fel-Pro head gasket and an Evergreen Head Gasket set for all your other gaskets.

So, I picked this up today. I need to do some engine work (will discuss that later, but I have the parts on order), but I can't complain for what I paid.

I've never had Blue Devil clog a vehicle unless used incorrectly. When I say incorrectly people fail to open the heater and turn it up (especially when they are doing it in summer) so it blocks off the heater core or they don't idle for 50 minutes. If you don't idle the required time it's like putting a big blob of glue on a piece of paper with the intention of smearing it all around to glue two pieces together, but waiting until it's 70% dry before trying to do it. If you can read and follow instructions correctly Blue Devil doesn't tend to clog things up, but it isn't a guaranteed fix (regardless of what they may advertise) and it's not a permanent fix (again regardless of what they may advertise). It is simply a product to "buy time". Sometimes that's 3 months, other times that can be years (I know people who have gone years on it). And I know being hard pressed and people who are hard pressed so understand it's uses. Now bar's leaks, god I don't ever want to see the inside of an engine/radiator that's had that stuff in it again.

Just FYI I wouldn't say newer. My '96 Impreza OBS has 4 Wheel ABS and it was an option on many cars of various years. That is not a tell tale sign that it is a "newer" part. What it sounds like is he possibly pulled them off a Legacy or something similar instead of from an Impreza. Might have thought they were all the same. Either way, it is great advice to always make sure the parts are a correct interchange. Junkyards are not always right either...........

To add to this, those heads shouldn't need replaced, just resurfaced. If the head gasket is leaking it needs to be fixed before it splits across and dumps water into the oil. That will spin a bearing and isn't worth the risk. Overheating is the minor concern because if water gets into the oil and thins it up it will do hard damage. But, without seeing the car, I wouldn't blame head gasket unless there are symptoms directly to that. It could also be thermostat or a coolant line as a possibility or even a bad radiator.

Your in Boise, just take them down to Import Engine Supply and have them milled. It's $42 a head and well worth the money. For another $90 they will install your provided (not theres as that is more) valve stem seals and camshaft seals. If you need help your welcome to PM me. I'm in Nampa but go to Boise/Meridian all the time.