lstevens76

It was the second picture that threw me. lol Not enough coffee that morning. I was looking at the far back one because the first picture didn't show it. That actually isn't that hard to replace (other than it looks like you will need a lot of PB to get those bolts lose).

I have to disagree with one comment here about it clogging things up. I ran it in mine without clogging anything for almost a month. I didn't flush the system after the rebuild, but I did replace the radiator (due to a bad neck from the compression gases forcing the radiator cap off, not blue devil). I know people who have used it in other cars without clogging things up as well, including Hondas that people make the same claims. Before I put it in the Subaru I did a ton of research and what I found was that most of the ones getting clogged up that listed there "steps" they used for any sealant product were not following the instructions correctly. Don't expect things to go right if you don't read the instructions and follow them exactly, especially something like these where the potential for problems is there. I'm not saying to use it or not to, but until I see some review or car somewhere that was known to have been done exactly as the directions state clogging up I believe this is more of a problem with following directions not the product itself. This is also after having looked at the inside of the block, the hoses, and the radiator (I didn't look in the heater core, but I know for fact it's not clogged). The best option, IMO, is still to pull the engine and remove the heads to inspect the cylinders then either replacing the head gaskets or swapping an engine in.

I may be wrong, but I'm 99% sure that isn't a trailing arm but that's your rear sway bar. (I'll double check after some more coffee). If that's the case then it has specific bends in it to move around the entire rear end and should connect on both sides, not just one.

Your way north of me (I'm in Nampa) or I would offer to help. Overheating any engine is bad, but there isn't any guarantee you did major damage. On the flip side of that, there isn't any guarantee you didn't do major damage either. It's a split road at the moment until you get that leak fixed and can drive it. You don't list the mileage but this is the kit I put on my car: http://www.amazon.com/Evergreen-TBK172AMHWPA-90-97-Subaru-Timing/dp/B00NLLH74C/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1434726580&sr=8-5&keywords=ej22+timing+belt+kit&pebp=1434726581701&perid=00V3EEXZ1GGHRMGHKMYX If your going in far enough to do the Water Pump your going to want to do the Timing Belt, Idlers, and Cam seals/crank seal while your in there. The first step here though is to remove the Alternator/PS belt and the AC Belt so you can remove the Timing Belt Covers. The water pump is to the left of the crank (Right of the crank if your facing the car). Once the covers are off snap a few pictures for us to see (always like seeing work in progress. ) then inspect for a leak.

I know thosl said he wont' do head gaskets so this is to clarify for other people that might catch this thread. 1.) Just because an engine has 200k and has been overheated does not necessitate replacement with a used engine. If you can't hear that engine run, there is no guarantee it will run right when you put it in. You can talk to a variety of machine shops and the newer engines ('90+) can easily go 300k to 400k. If there hasn't been water in the oil then the bearings, etc... are probably fine. 2.) On these engines even getting them hot multiple times does not tend to severely warp/crack the heads. That was an issue back in the '80s and primarily with Ford V6 engines (specifically the heads made in Mexico). For all the cars I've seen that have been overheated numerous times, the only ones I ever found with cracked heads were Ford Thunderbirds w/ the V6 and Mexican built heads........... If your willing to pull an engine in general it's better to inspect the cylinders on these engines and move forward from there than just immediately go to an engine swap. Although most junkyards offer a warranty with an engine I've actually found pieces of rubber gloves in cylinders on jy engines and other issues. If it doesn't run right when you put it in, then you may end up pulling it again. If you can avoid that, why go through it?

If you can't find any in junkyards there is a sale section here and you can also ask people here to look for you in there local junkyards.

You can get an engine hoist for less than $100 from Harbor Freight (online or locally if there is one). You could possibly rent one locally for cheap as well. It's also easier with an engine stand (about $50 from harbor freight). Pulling the engine, if your willing to, not only makes the job easier but allows you to do more work (such as inspect/replace rear main, separator plate, reseal oil pan etc...) than doing it in the car. I went with a cheap full engine gasket set by evergreen, then fel-pro head gaskets. You could do essentially the same thing, but with the EJ25 Turbo OEM head gaskets and a cheap gasket set. Take a look at this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/ Now get a nice big piece of 1/2" or 5/8" glass (so its perfectly flat) and you can glue sand paper to it and use it to mill the block.

It depends on the symptoms and situation to whether Blue Devil will work. Personally I don't like sealants because you risk clogging other issues, but when you need a cheap fix they offer a possibility. If your going to do it though, don't use the Blue Devil pour and go. I've heard of Blue Devil working on Subarus before and I know some people with personal experience using it, but they did the full product not the pour and go. My experience on the pour and go was it sealed the leak which was causing water into the cylinder, but it did not solve the exhaust gases into the coolant. The full product, run correctly, has a higher possibility of fixing gasses into the coolant due to the way you have to apply it.

$155 isn't bad. Did they install the camshaft seals for you as well? Including the rear o-rings?

That's a conversation for another thread.

That's what I did. I still have the evergreen gaskets sitting on a shelf. lol Cost me around $120 for both w/ my prime membership free 2 day shipping. It was well worth it in my personal opinion.

This is the kit I purchased: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007P748YU/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A131HE22U4WT5U And yes I'm sure it's in there because I replaced that one when I had the oil pan off for the reseal. Evergreen FS99002 90-98 2.2 Subaru Impreza Legacy EJ22 Full Gasket Set (updated link and mine was a full engine gasket set)

If you pull the engine and do the head gasket yourself you can do it for less than $500. $500 is the cheapest you can find a used engine here, but I don't know about there. When you pull the heads you will be able to look at the cylinder walls, rings, and pistons to get an idea of there condition. On my EJ22 w/ 200k+ miles they were fine and the only problem was the head gaskets + seals.

Yes that one was in my kit. And your not an idiot. I ordered an evergreen full engine gasket kit and felpro head gaskets. A lot of people don't like the cheap gaskets.

Damn all those o-rings were in my $50 gasket kit from amazon along with the rest of the seals, etc...

Yeah, my heads (with the valve stem seals/cam seals) were done in less than a business day. I dropped them off late Friday (they aren't open weekends) and they were ready for pick up late Monday. Also, my total cost using my supplied valve stem seals and cam seals was $209 ($42/head, $90 in labor, $5 disposal fee, and there was something else on there as well).

Why do you doubt the relay? I've seen weak, intermittent, relays that are not failed completely. A bad solder in the relay can wreak havoc without actually killing the fuel relay itself.

Same here, but on mine I asked them to check the valves and camshafts and had them install new valve stem seals along with the camshaft seals. There were no problems found. This was on a set of heads I know we're overheated at least 4 times by me and an unknown amount by the previous owner. Go down there and ask to see the damage and take pictures. If they don't want to let you do that then collect the heads and either go somewhere else or ship them to a reputable shop. That being said any good machine shop is going to typically inspect for damage for no additional charge while milling. There is always a possibility of damage and if they will let you take pictures then they are probably correct. But if you get the pictures post them up here for a second opinion.

Did that EJ25 get a compression and leak down test before you started swapping? Also, did you swap the appropriate sensors and/or cam/crank gears?

Why does everyone immediately jump to "replace engine"? If you can pull the engine, then you can replace those head gaskets for less than a used engine will cost. And you will have the opportunity to inspect the cylinder walls, pistons, and rings in the process. My EJ22 had over 200k on it when I pulled it and the cylinders, pistons, rings all looked great. It's back together with a full reseal and running good.

With a '90 engine it is non-interference engine so if the timing belt did snap it most likely didn't do damage. Pull a timing belt cover and find out. It's 3x 10mm bolts.

Here's the think I'm not understanding. The road trip you are thinking of taking is equal to about 1 1/4 months of driving to me (if that). I put the engine back in my car on Memorial day and I have almost 1.5k on it. lol The average person puts 1k miles on per month or more. What you are looking for is a car not much different than you would buy and expect to drive for at least 6 months with nothing more than oil changes.............. Look at it that way. And all of this at those kind of miles, regardless of the engine, comes down to maintenance. If it's been well maintained it's going to last, even a 2.5L will last if it's been well maintained.

Yeah, the new doors worried me. Bumper covers don't because they are always getting mangled one way or another. Is this the same dealer that had the '02? It sounds to me like they buy beat to hell cars, fix enough to sell them and make a profit. It's one thing if they are fixing "everything" that wrongs, which they obviously are not, but when they are doing just enough to sell them there's a problem.

No car is an exception. Actually some Ford and Honda V6 engines were well known, even more so than Subaru, for blowing head gaskets. Another possibility is the o-rings under the the coolant pipe under the intake. But I am guessing it's a heater hose which has nothing to do with the engine itself and should have been checked/replaced with the swap along with the throttle body hoses.

Ok. You have heater hoses behind the engine then you have coolant lines running through the intake. Are you losing the water onto the block or out of the reservoir?