lstevens76

If you have a harbor freight near by just go pick up a set of Pittsburgh pro ones. http://m.harborfreight.com/3-pc-universal-impact-joint-socket-adapter-set-67986.html

Both heads are done and the flex plate/separator plate is off. Now to figure out which sealant and reassemble the thing in the morning. Hand milling heads is long tedious work! And it looks like I'm going to have to do the RMS. I was hoping to avoid it, but looking at the pictures it seems obvious to me that it's leaking. Newest round of pictures. All the milling is done and this is the RMS, Separator Plate area. And no impact needed on this car, 2 of the bolts for the Separator plate were lose and the rest came out no problem.

Ok, so the flywheel is off, the head surfaces are nice and polished up, the separator plate is off and I'm finally ready to start putting it back together................................. But, after multiple searches I get conflicting information and I'm unsure of which sealants go where (even the Subaru FSM I have doesn't say). So, here is what I have: Subaru 1217b (I know I ordered the wrong stuff) When I realized that was wrong I went and bought: Permatex Ultragrey Now I'm reading Ultra grey isn't Anaerobic and for the separator plate/oil pan I need Anaerobic? So where should I use the Ultra Grey, should I even bother with the 1217b or return it? And finally if I need another tube of sealer what should I go get? Thanks

Not knowing the difference isn't a big deal. A no start is where the car doesn't fire up and run. A no crank is where the car doesn't even turn over. If it's not cranking and your getting power to the starter then it's either solenoid or the starter. I would try pounding on the starter solenoid and see if it starts.

Well, actually he didn't. He keeps going from "no start" to "won't crank". I've seen both and he brought up codes. An IAC won't cause a "no crank" issue, but it will cause a "no start" issue where it will crank but not start. But, this could also be a bad ground, specifically one of the engine grounds.

Well the first thing to catch my eye is the IAC code. If the IAC valve isn't operating correctly it can cause a no-start situation. Have you tried unplugging it? (may not help if it's stuck in the wrong position).

That lower transmission bolt, as fair tax said, is only accessible from below. To make matters worse you aren't going to get a 1/2" swivel in there. We used a 3/8" impact swivel (after breaking a cheap normal one) plus 2 or 3 extensions to get a good shot at it and a 3/8" impact. The starter has to come out as one (or both) of those bolts go all the way through to the engine

I don't question the investment itself personally. Once you do a repair like that you know it's good and that's something you can't get by replacing the vehicle with another used one. I do question that totalk price though. I believe that transmission could be rebuilt for a lot less with aa good warranty. That being said LKQ is national and if there is one close you can get a goof used transmission with an extended warranty including labor

It's only a success when you have it running for a couple days with no additional fires.

A few companies have, but I believe Subaru is the only one continuing to. The most well known flat 4 besides Subaru is VW who has produced both an air cooled and water cooled one. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flat-four_engine

Lets see pictures, also what did you pay? I'm currently doing headgaskets on an EJ22E. Although it is rare for them to fail, they do fail and you are having a lot of the same symptoms I was having. I would put money a hydrocarbon test will turn up issues (mine did even though they say they don't alot of the time). That being said, if you want to do it right then pull the engine and do it right. If you do it right that engine will last another 200k+ if it's taken care of afterwards. Things to do while working: Timing Belt component kit including water pump - I ordered mine from Amazon w/ the tensioner since I didn't know the history or if it had ever been replaced. Full engine gasket kit - I did an evergreen kit (amazon) w/ separate Fel-Pro gaskets (about $125 total) vrs an OEM set ($250) or a Fel-Pro set ($185/$200) You'll also need a method to clean the head mating surface and block mating surface. Personally I took my heads down to a machine shop due to lack of tools and knowledge as one of the alignment dowels (aka straight pin) stuck in the head instead of the block. I had them clean/mill the heads and put my cam seals/valve stem seals in for $209. The rest of things I'm doing you probably don't need as I am replacing the radiator, plug wires, plugs, vacuum lines, etc...

If that power steering pump was leaking severely it could have escalated the failure of an already old timing belt. On an old timing belt there is a good chance the seals on the cover are weak/failing. If the pump was leaking it could have allowed ATF to get down on the belt which could easily have a caused a "slip" on a failing power steering pump. The other thing is if that old power steering pump was leaking and it did get down there it could have gotten all over the camshaft sensor, causing problems. Things to think about............

Wow, ok didn't realize they had gone that far.

Should be just 2. An upstream and downstream.

Plug an OBD2 code reader in. Turn the key and see if it can connect to the ECU. This isn't a question of codes, it's to narrow it down.

Unfortunately I have to agree with Fairtax on this one. lol My grandfather's '87 Ford ranger won't trip a damn CEL, but it had 2 codes in the system when I checked it. Both are causing it to miss at an idle and get horrid fuel mileage (for a v6). The '90 subaru I had would trip the light for a second, then it would go away but store the code. If I hadn't noticed the light coming on once I never would have checked the codes on it.

Have you checked your front CV Axles and the front differential? Could also be a wheel bearing.

Seriously people? Put a belt on it and find out! There is 50/50 chance with an interference motor that the valves are bent or are not bent. Just because it is interference doesn't guarantee the valves bent, it just makes it a lot more likely. Your not going to know until you put the crank at TDC, put a belt on it, and then try starting it.

So the driver's side came off as well (realized I forgot pictures of that). Here's the driver's side mating surface now. That's 2 sheets of 220 and 1 sheet of 320. I can still see some ridge lines so I'm doing another sheet of 320 before I go to the 400.

A stud goes in and is threaded where the head of a bolt would be to attach a nut.

It Says The Model AND Year in the title.

If the belt was worn enough to jump then you need to do a full TB kit which includes the belt, water pump, and idler pulleys. If it bent the valves you will either need to pull the heads and have them repaired or replace them with a used set.

Ok, this one I have to disagree with. If we can get around in the Northwest with areas that sometimes get 10' of snow and they use chemical de-icer + sand to handle our roads then Maine could do the same. It's simply outdated thinking and lazy politicians that keep salt on the roads destroying cars. Or maybe they have been bought off by the auto manufacturers getting the east coast to have to purchase cars every 15/20 years..............

May sound strange but have you tried charging the battery or jumping it?

I gave in. I picked up a set of wire wheel brushes for a drill from Harbor Freight and have a friend bringing over a drill (in case my dewalt one doesn't want to charge). That should get it clean!