lstevens76

No, they are not totally gutless. The EJ221 is the Phase 1 and the EJ222 is the Phase 2: EJ221 Naturally Aspirated Horsepower: 135 bhp (101 kW; 135 bhp) @ 5800 rpm Torque: 137 lb·ft (186 N·m) @ 4800 rpm EJ222 Naturally Aspirated (1999) Horsepower: 142 bhp (106 kW; 144 PS) @ 5600 rpm Torque: 149 lb·ft (202 N·m) @ 3600 rpm EJ25D (first gen EJ25) DOHC (1996) - SAE - 155 hp (116 kW) @ 5600 rpm 140 ft·lbf (190 N·m) at 2800 rpm DOHC (1997–1999) - SAE - 165 hp (123 kW) @ 5600 rpm 162 ft·lbf (220 N·m) at 4000 rpm EJ251 Power ISO: 123 kW (165 hp) @ 5600 RPM 226 N·m (167 ft·lbf) @ 4400 rpm Yes there is some horespower torque difference, but you can see it isn't a "huge" difference.

it very likely could be they just don't make updates for your model anymore. That doesn't mean there aren't recent updates available either by downloading, as you are doing, or eBay for discs. The question would be when did they discontinue updates.

Many of those in the US took CDS or DVDs to read from. If that's the case on yours you just need a new set of discs.

I would start with the MAP sensor issue + a tuneup and then go from there. It's possible the map sensor is causing it to run rich which is setting off the cat codes, but it does look like you have a possible bad o2 sensor as well. And as fairtax said, how many miles and when was the last timing belt?

Well, unless someone rolled it on its side in the mud and before rolling it back down decided to add dif fluid.

Use Blue Devil (full product) now, not later. Later will be too late and it will not work. Basically the bigger the leak, the less likely a sealant works. The longer you drive it with the leak being present the bigger the leak will get. If you use it now, and stop using coolant, you could get 6 months to 3 years or more out of that engine before having to swap it (or you could only get a day, sealants are no guarantee). It sounds like the struts are bad on the back, possibly strut mounts as well.

Engine R&R - 6 hour job at a shop. Head Gaskets off the car - 3 to 4 hour job at a shop Basically you can do head gaskets in 2 to 3 days even while learning, but I understand your hesitation and not wanting to do that. There are a couple of really nice cars on the Orange County Craigslist, but none of them list if HG has ever been done. A Carfax might show you. https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/ctd/5004988183.html https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/5016741110.html Now, if you want to really have fun you buy this and have the transmission rebuilt. https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/cto/4974659590.html

Ok, whoever that person on another forum was needs there head checked then needs to learn how to do research before giving advice................. Aside from that, what's your technical level? One option would be to pick up one that has just blown the head gaskets and fix it yourself. Another possibility is to look older than '00. Here (Idaho) it's hit and miss to see anything '00 or newer selling for less than 3k, and '01+ is usually over 3k for subarus.

I would do the cap first. It sounds like it isn't releasing properly. From the way you've described it the thermostat seems to be working, but it wouldn't hurt to do both. If you can get a discount at the local subie dealer, or order online, you can do both yourself for around $60 including coolant.

Does that rebuild include R&R? And even without it $800 is a good deal, especially if R&R is included since that's a 5 hour job in and of itself.

More people than you think rebuild them. The problem is they just don't post on these forums. Most DIY'ers don't rebuild them because a swap is faster and easier. I don't know about the engine rebuilder that's on these forums, but they are selling enough rebuilds to stay in business. The shop local here that advertises them sells 2 or 3 a month and tends to do head work for a subaru at least once a month. It's actually less than other brands though.

Or you can check rockauto.com and amazon.com. Both tend to have good prices on new parts. I prefer amazon simply because I'm a "Prime Meber" so I get free 2 day shipping.

I got the motor mount nut off (after pb for 24 hours) by pounding my 13mm Craftsman 1/2" onto it. It finally came off, but the nut needs replaced. We also ran into an issue w/ the lower left hand transmission stud nut but it finally came off as well. Been an interesting experience, but not near as bad as others I've done. And it's out, now onto the stand (early evening/tonight) to do the head gaskets. But first stop (while it's still in the back of the truck) is a car wash!

A quick search of car-part.com and the cheapest one is over $1,000. If the block itself is OK (no rods through it, etc...) "AND" you can do the work yourself Rockauto has a master rebuild kit for $500, leaving $500 to have the heads done and the block honed/crank turned.

That should be an EJ253: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Subaru_EJ_engine Impreza 99, 03-07 Legacy, Outback (North America) 05-11 Legacy [bL/BP] 03-09 (Europe) Legacy [bM/BR] 09-12 (Europe, with 123kW/167hp) Outback 03-09 (Europe) Forester 99 (SF), 05-10 (SG, SH) Baja 05+ Saab 9-2x Linear 05, 06

If you put some antisieze on the nut, it should not turn into bolts. The engine on mine I don't believe has ever been out ('96 OBS 2.2L) yet the nuts came off without a problem. Figuring that you live in the rust belt somewhere some antisieze if you replace them should solve the problem.

If the car is turning over when you turn the key you want to look other areas first. In your first post it sounded as if it wasn't turning over (no starter function), but later you explained that it does seem to be turning over. You are either not getting Fuel, Spark, Air, or you are getting them at the wrong times/wrong combinations. When it completely isn't turning over then the ignition switch or neutral safety switch are likely culprits, but your in a different situation than that.

Ok, have you tried it now that you have it partially broke loose? Everytime you loosen it up (such as you have done) your opening up more space for those products to get in there. Plus you don't just spray once, do it every couple of hours for a 12 to 24 hour period. If that doesn't work, go pick up a little hand held propane torch (the one that takes the same bottles as a camp stove) and hit that thing with some good heat then try the pickle fork. I've been there on an Acura Legend fighting it and when it does pop out it's pretty satisfying, until you realize you still have to put the new one in. lol

Do this. It's the two black wires under the dash. It's not worth throwing parts at it as that may or may not accomplish anything. http://www.troublecodes.net/subaru/ You want to start with the black set to read the memory, then do the diagnostics.

Even when not lit it should be storing that code. Pull the code, as Rooster said, and post it, that will give us the information to help you.

Have you tried spraying it with anything such as PB Blaster and letting it sit overnight? If you do this spray it every couple hours for a 12 to 24 hour period.

That does not mean that. Just because it turns over does not mean it doesn't have crank, rod, or piston problems. This is why I said a "Full Rebuild" based on your description. If you can get a used engine for an '06 for less than $500, then that would be the way to go. Over here on the west coast they average $600+. The difference here is a used engine has the potential for problems as well and you don't know the history. If your planning to keep the car a full rebuild would allow you to know the full history of the engine and the condition of the lower end.

If you can do most of the work yourself I would rebuild it completely, but I wouldn't even mess with head gaskets. Otherwise I would swap in a used motor.

Ok, for some reason I didn't see "differential" when I read this. That is completely different than the engine seals. As Texan said we need to know what kind of fluid and color even. Is it Engine Oil, Differential Oil, or ATF? Each of these oils comes from a different place and if it is anywhere on or near the engine it may or may not be the diff. It could be engine oil leaking and ending up in that location, it could be ATF from the transmission or power steering pump leaking and ending up there ,etc....

The title says "Rear Seal" but in the post you talk about the front seal. It's probably due for a Timing Belt kit anyways so I would start there and get one that includes the cam seals/front oil seals. Only special tool that some people use is a crank bolt pulley tool to hold the crank still while you pull the bolt. You will need a bunch of mm sockets (make sure you have 8mm up to 22mm in normal size, and then I would get 8mm to 16mm or higher in deepwell as well). Now, if it actually is the rear seal that's a whole different scenario. Your going to have to at least shift the engine or transmission, if not pull the engine, to do it.