lstevens76

I was hoping someone would know as I would like to order them from Amazon and not buy locally (there is a huge price difference and usually a quality difference for the price bracket I want to be in). And yes, I could still take it down to NAPA or Oreilly and have it matched, but since I don't intend to buy them there I would really rather not. The lines I'm worried about aren't the larger ones. It's the smaller ones that run the purge solenoid and other things.

All the sockets I care about are craftsman or Pittsburgh so if it breaks, oh well. I'll just run it to Sears or Harbor Freight and have them swap it. If it's one of the off brand generics I have that brakes, oh well. lol

So, I've been searching and searching and can not find any information on the vacuum line sizes for a 1st Gen Impreza, nor even an older Legacy. I could find addon kits for the '02+ WRX and some statements about sizes for that car and some newer ones. What I would like to know is the vacuum hose sizes for whats on a 1st gen impreza. I know some of mine are shot. They aren't cracked but the ends have stretched and they no longer seat tight which I think is the source of my P0441. Thanks

The problem one is rounded off somewhat now. I cleaned up a bunch of my craftsman tools last night which have better tolerance spec (tightness to bolt fit) than Pittsburgh stuff. If it doesn't come off I'm just going to cut it off and replace the mount. They are probably due for replacement, I was just trying to avoid any more costs.

Could be the fuel pressure regulator. But have you checked for codes yet? Have you replaced the fuel filter?

Ok, so stopped for the day because the LH Engine Mount Nut will not come off. 24" breaker bar, no. 1/2" Impact w/ a 60 gallon compressor, no. So sprayed it with PB, friend is spraying it again tonight, and then one of us will in the morning and try again. Worst case scenario = 3" cutter (air or electric I have access to both) and that nut is going to come off and the engine will come out. lol Few pictures of where it's at. I've since removed all the upper end stuff. Just to note, the TB covers were missing when I bought it (I have a set) It looks like either he got upset and ripped it off or this engine has thrown a timing belt previously. The bottom part of the right hand TB cover is still there. lol Here's a few other shots of the engine bay.

It could be the fuel pump but have you put a scanner on it? Just because there isn't a check engine light (or maybe there is?) doesn't mean there isn't a stored code from when it occurs. Start with a scanner that can pull current and stored codes. Check for any pending codes as well. Come back and let us know.

And here is what it is getting at the moment. I'll update w/ pictures of the timing belt cover (non-existent right now) after I clean them and I'm hoping to find the rear right cover as well due to a break in it. This picture is: (Bottom left to right) Purolator One Air Filter, GMB Idlers and Tensioner, Fel-Pro Head Gaskets (x2), NGK Irridium Plugs, NGK FX41 Plug Wires (Top left to right) Aisin Water Pump w/ Metal gasket (included) and Thermostat Gasket, Purolator Fuel Filter, Caulking tube of Subaru Silicone Gasket Maker, Cam Sensor, Mitsuboshi Timing Belt, Subaru OEM Steel Separator Plate. Close ups: This is the Evergreen Complete Engine Gasket/Seal Kit (to note I'm not using the head gaskets but this is what they look like): And finally my "TYC" / Koyorad radiator: What isn't here is the coolant I am picking up today, the AC Compressor O-Rings that are being replaced, and the PS Pump O-Ring being replaced.

Well, since I found this post actually looking for License Plate Screws I'll get everyone to read it again. Then we can all sit around and really wonder about our lifes for reading a post from 2005 about license plate screws. lol

It isn't always about age. You have harsher winters up there than we do here I believe. That cold weather does a number on tires, plus you've probably put twice as many miles on that car in 7 years than my grandfather put on his ranger in 13/14. The pickup isn't his primary vehicle and he bought that truck when he was in his 70's (90 now).

To make sure you have checked codes right? There is always the possibility of an intermittent code stored in the system that is not setting off the check engine light constantly (intermittent failure). Have you tested the fuel pressure? Have these items been replaced: PCV Valve Fuel Filter Air Filter Plugs Wires

Look at it this way. If you spend $12 and it gets you through this summer so you can do it next year would that help or hinder you? If that would help you and make you feel better than I would spend the $12 and replace it next summer if need be. Personally I would leave it if the system was blowing cold before.

I pulled that from the listing for a 2.2 liter on rock auto. I'm not saying it's accurate Just what they listed

Just do it nicer than they did in the video. That back window just doesn't look right.

I don't know what shipping would be, but there is an Outback (legacy) either '99 or '00 that has all that wood trim in good shape at the pull-a-part here.

Subaru part number I found is: 22680AA160 Amazon: 74.12 for Diften $69.95 for Partlex Both are cheaper than rockauto

Here is the problem with this statement: "The 2003 Forester that they are dropping the 40k engine in had 180k on it (acquired by them through a trade-in) and so they decided to just put the new engine in as it needed a lot of work. I will find out more specs and get back to you all." This immediately tells me it wasn't maintained if it "needed a lot of work". Here is what you are potentially facing with any car: Sensors (check engine light usually) - although these "should" be fixed with what they are doing. Vacuum lines - again with this they should be fixed Now to the bad stuff: Struts - if you don't do them yourself your looking at a potential $500+ charge to get them done if they are bad/going bad. Differential/transmission - if the engine is bad enough they feel the need to replace it............. CV Axles - condition of boots, etc... Wheel Bearings Ball Joints Basically you need to worry about your suspension and all the drivetrain they aren't messing with. On average you should be able to find a good mechanic who can do a thorough pre-purchase inspection for less than $100. Any vehicle you look at (don't care about rep) should have an inspection before you buy it based on your knowledge. This protects you and the person you buy it from. Here's a search of "nearby areas" on Craigslist to give you a price area: http://chicago.craigslist.org/chc/cto/5015599846.html http://madison.craigslist.org/ctd/5014652852.html http://stlouis.craigslist.org/ctd/5012803107.html http://stlouis.craigslist.org/ctd/5010229608.html Just note, all of those are under $6k and all have clean titles.

The EJ251 that the 02 and 03 have had head gasket issues. So for a forester having major engine work is not uncommon and would need to be done. The body work and a salvage title on the other hand makes no sense, unless they are a "buy here pay here" and repoed it after the wreck, etc... As for the Engine stuff you can pick up the bad head gasket ones cheap as a consumer ($500 to $1000), now think about the fact a dealer isn't going to pay what a consumer might pay......................

UPDATE: Well, what I hadn't added was that Tuesday it starting drinking water like it was, well water, but not like a car should. It also started getting some good size air bubbles in the system causing erroneous temporary coolant sensor readings. I've dealt w/ the air pocket issue before in other cars so I knew the symptom/cause but when your pushing exhaust into the coolant it's not a bleeding issue unfortunately (tried that). One way or another either tonight or in the morning the engine is coming out and getting pretty much an upper end rebuild, new timing parts (all of it), timing belt covers, new radiator, etc.... Just trying to figure out where I'm going to do it. Oh, and the TYC radiator arrived. Blatant big blue "KOYO" on the box for $73 from Amazon w/ free shipping on prime. No, it's not all aluminum as they don't make those for automatics. So, for parts I have: Complete engine gasket set (so most, if not all, gaskets/seals are being replaced) Fel-Pro Head Gaskets Complete timing belt kit including Aisin Water Pump, Mitsushimo Belt, idlers, and tensioner. Subaru replacement Separator plate Subaru Caulking Tube of Silicone Gasket Maker NGK Irridium Plugs NGK FX41 Plug Wires Fuel Filter Air Filter Cam Sensor

Pull a tire and look for a part number on the caliper and google it if at all possible. It might just be a swap from a '95 OBS, etc... making it really easy to locate. How is the tread on the tires? When I think trash tires I think tread, not brand. lol

I'm not sure that sound is in the wheel bearings, I would be thinking differential bearings. Honestly it sounds just like the pinion bearing did in my Durango. The problem is, when there are noises (especially road noises like that) start with the obvious because sometimes the obvious that you don't think is the cause, turns out to be. If it is an AWD I would get a good full matched set of tires on it ASAP first. Some of that could be road noise. Check your local craigslist for a matched set that will either bolt right on or you can have mounted on your rims (saves money and gets it fixed quick so you can move onto other things). I would then do the brakes, since you've stated they are a known obvious problem. Once those are fixed see if those made any difference to the noise and go from there.

Ok, this is just a quick search local to me, but I'm in a larger area it appears. http://boise.craigslist.org/search/sss?sort=rel&minAsk=50&maxAsk=6000&query=forester Now, here's the search for your area and this is what caught my eye: https://iowacity.craigslist.org/search/sss?sort=rel&minAsk=50&maxAsk=6000&query=forester http://desmoines.craigslist.org/ctd/5002319516.html http://dubuque.craigslist.org/cto/4998255827.html http://waterloo.craigslist.org/ptd/5006285820.html - I suspect this is less than $4,000 in body work so $2,000 more for 6 years newer? It doesn't say if it has a branded title, but it may not have one based on the damage. What I'm saying is unless this one is perfect for you in every way, I would keep looking. They are into that rig a lot of money and they won't be selling it cheap (I would suspect a minimum of $4,000). For there bottom dollar you could get another vehicle with a clean/clear title and completely fix anything wrong with it. Or one of those foresters was only $3,199 with a clear title. Other option is to also look in nearby areas/states on craigslist, cars.com, autotrader.com, etc....

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.jsp?techid=11 My grandfather's were over 10 years old. The tread wasn't in bad shape (still a lot on it), but the age of the tire and weathering is what did it under. See if your tire has a date code. If it doesn't it was manufactured prior to 2001. If it does and the tire is passed 10 years old it really should be replaced.

There should be a schrader valve on the fuel line (same kind of valve you have on your tires). You can sometimes get away with just pushing down the valve, verifying pressure, then turning the key on and make sure it rebuilds but this isn't very accurate and can give misleading results. The best way to test the fuel pressure is to use a tester which most auto parts stores rent or if there is a harbor freight near you they sell them pretty cheap. Make sure to have a code reader available as well. If there is no CEL (check engine light) I would still attempt to read codes. The light could be burnt out or it could have pending faults giving you a hint to the problem.

If a steel belt breaks internally on an older tire the steel can work its way into the tread and poke out. Have a tire shop look at it. To explain the safety issue better: My grandfather's truck had 10+ year old tires on it and one of t hem started doing exactly as above. To start with it was just a piece of belt sticking through. Then it lost a "small" piece of tread. He finally asked me to take it and get tires from a place we had before, about 13 miles away. I made it the 13 miles and the tire lost a chunk of tread on the way, only to discover the place was again. So turn around and go back another 15 miles to Discount Tire......... I could hear and feel what was happening the whole way, but kept going hoping it would hold air and make it there.................. I was lucky: