lstevens76

I didn't get the before measurments, and they probably wouldn't have been right anyways. When I removed the driver's side strut after compressing the spring it collapsed in on itself. You pull it out, and it will just collapse back in. I'll try to take a video of that tomorrow. Maybe that was a feature, self collapsing struts? lol (yes I was being sarcastic) I only got the fronts done today, I will try and do the rears in the morning and get some new pictures. Here is what the front looks like now: And what it used to look like: As you can tell, it's only slightly higher. I'll get some more pictures tomorrow after I do the rear struts.

TY, found the '96 impreza and downloading it now. It's big enough it looks complete.

Ok, this seperator plate that everyone keeps saying to replace, anyone have a picture? I want to locate it on the engine so I know what people are talking about.

I didn't go cheap on the TB Kit. The evergreen kit includes the same idlers as the gates kit, and an Aisin Water Pump. The only part on the TB Kit that I'm even hesitant on is the tensioner. This is a '96 OBS w/ a 2.2L. I said I would use the "short blocK" for a 2.5 if I end up with lower end issues. As for the head bolts, it's been hot a few times. I figured I would be better off with them then getting them out to discover there are problems.

I realized I didn't give any of my personal mechanic history on here (to note I'm not a mechanic yet). I grew up around it to begin with, but in my Adult life I seem to do most of it myself anymore. I've done engine swaps, intake manifolds, exhaust gaskets, etc... with my father when he was still alive. He wasn't much into an engine tear down later in life, but he rebuild at least 4 engines when I was a kid and worked as a mechanic when I was really young (70's era) before going back to longhaul truck driving. As for me, most of my own personal large work started about 5 years ago. I already had the knowledge just never really applied it to my own cars. Now I seem to end up doing 70% of the work for my family and friends. Prior to this the biggest things I had done for myself was things like tuneups, blower motors, etc.... I picked up a '93 Acura Legend w/ a blown head gasket. Tore it all the way down to the heads then life interfered and a "supposed mechanic" from a friend was supposed to finish pulling the heads and replacing the gaskets. Instead the ******* ended up putting it back together w/out replacing the head gaskets or even cleaning off the heads (to note it had sit w/ the hood down and valve covers off w/ heads exposed for 3 weeks). His "repair" lasted about 3 weeks until I realized there was no thermostat in it and, after replacing it, the head gaskets were blown and he was wrong. I already had thought this, but we tend to defer to the mechanic. After previous experiences with mechanics I had just had enough. I pulled the heads off myself and took them down to have milled. Well that debris had damaged a cam journal and cam to the point it wasn't salvagable and being a Type II motor I was having a hard time finding heads/cams. I ended up swapping in a 3.5L RL motor to this car. That was pretty much the start of it and it has just gone forward from there. I've done work on my Aunt's van, my Grandfather's Vans (yes plural), pickup, Buick Station Wagon, etc... My Durango I picked up for $750, replaced the computer. Ended up putting an '03 rear end in an '01 Durango and converting to disc brakes. I've replaced all 4 shocks along with the front outer tie rod ends and all 4 ball joints. Right now I'm in the middle of reassembling the saginaw steering column in a '92 Buick Roadmaster Estate wagon (I could live with never seeing one of these again). I'm also working on tracing down issues w/ my grandfather's ford ranger (and swapping seats to buckets). I'm also probably going to start working on my Grandfather's WWII Jeep once other projects are cleared to get it running. Sadly I seem to be better at diagnosing stuff than most mechanics in this area as well, which is frustrating.

It sounds like that is one of the nicer scan tools. I wouldn't worry about replacing it until it dies or you actually want/need more information. Torque and other apps are customizable and can display information side by side and are customizable as to what information to show. You can also include a lot of information that isn't available on most scan tools. They also recently added a beta protocal for the Subaru to get more info on torque.

I should update that I found the problem. The electronic lock is now completely dead, it was only partially dead before. Somehow when being partially dead it was causing problems with the key being able to turn the rod all the way. Right now I can lock/unlock with the key and the electronic lock does nothing now, I can live with that until I replace it.

Ok, so the engine in the OBS is coming out next week if I can do it. Although the Blue Devil bought me some time, it didn't full seal the leak. I've been driving a ticking time bomb for the last week with my son and that is just nerve racking worried if it's going to make it the 13 miles to take him to school, then back, then to pick him up, etc.... In my other thread I talked about a possible knock, which may be lifters and I need to take that into account as well in my parts now. I want to be able to pull this and do it in two days. I do not believe the knock is the lower end so I'm only doing an upper end rebuild. If I start having problems with the lower end I'm considering just getting an EJ25 block and swapping my upper end over, but hopefully that is a long ways down the road. So, here is my parts list. I believe I need to ad some more to it, to be safe, but that's why I'm asking. 1.) Head Gasket kit. I'm going with an Evergreen/Mitsumo. I know they are cheap but I've had good luck with them in the past and right now I need cheap. The link to the kit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MU3JZGA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A131HE22U4WT5U 2.) TB/WP/Tensioner Kit - Again going w/ Evergreen but with the Aisin water pump. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NLLH74C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A131HE22U4WT5U 3.) Plug Wires - NGK http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C5O1N0/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER 4.) New Plugs (again) http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B6R00U/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2IS69AN9A0OWP I already have a brand new bosch oil filter for it and a radiator on the way (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000UMFTRC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). The radiator probably won't be here until after I redo the upper end, unfortunately. Fluids are a local purchase, so are not on this list. What other parts should I realistically have on hand? I own all the tools to do this by the way, and I've done head gaskets before so I do know what I'm doing. Thanks

Well, now I really think I might as well become a mechanic. I pushed the car to try and make it knock harder. It's an auto and where I got on the interstate is a steep climb so I've been pushing it hard up and down it the last two days, 6k rpm shifts, etc... I couldn't make it louder. So I asked a couple of other people (non-mechanics). I was told check the upper end, pre-ignition detonation, and things like this. I've had a CEL for a week or two due to a P0443 (purge control solenoid) and I had one previously for a P0441, which escalated to the P0443. I believe the knock is gone now, but I won't know for sure until I get the PS Pump replaced tomorrow (it's grinding loud and yes the knock was that quiet, but definitely there). What I did was picked up a purge solenoid from the local pick-a-part and installed it, then cleared the code. What I believe the problem was is that the purge control solenoid was stuck open so instead of metering the flow of air from the fumes it was just an open connection letting the intake suck extra un-metered air. All this extra air was causijng pre-ignition and as such a knock. Maybe I'm way off base, but it sure got quiter after I replaced that solenoid.

The ECU for a phase 2 motor will run a Phase 1, it's been done. The same the other way as well (phase 1 ECU running a phase 2). As you mentioned sensors the Engine wiring harness will plug in. As I mentioned he would probably need to swap the harness. Why do I know this? Because I've spent the last few days figuring out if a Phase 2 would work on my OBS. I found a lot of people who have swapped in a phase 1 into a phase 2 car, but not as many the other way around. But I have learned it can be done if I have the harness.

It could be anything, and unless you like dumping money into parts lets take a step back. First, if you use an android phone I would pick up an inexpensive bluetooth reader and the torque app. That will help. Next, do you have an FSM (Factory Service manual)? If not find one online or pick one up. Once you have an FSM most of the time (someone else might correct me) they contain sensor specs and ways to test things like the IACV beyond what may be listed in the forums. And before putting more money out I would also consider things like a compression test, etc... to try and trace it down. Maybe do a run test on the cam sensor?

What do the heads have to do with wether a Phase 1 "complete engine" will work or not? He would just need one from an Automatic w/ EGR on it. The 2003 Legacy shipped with an EJ25 engine Phase II. If he drops one of those in there is nothing he/she has to change. On the EJ22 I believe the engine harness would have to be swapped and might possibly need an intake from an EJ25 off an equivalent year donor car. It has nothing to do with the Block or Heads, but simple electronics.

In the Legacy I was averaging 29 to 34 (yes 34mpg on a round trip from Boise, ID to McCall, ID and back). That's a '90 Legacy 2.2L w/ a 5MT w/ Stock size 14" tires. In the OBS around time (80% highway for 13/15 mile trips) I'm averaging right around 30mpg. That is a '96 OBS 2.2L w/ stock 185/70/14

Hmm, does no one make tune stuff for the Subaru's? I know a dealer can adjust my Durango or I can get a supertune to do it. With a VSS it should just be a calibration setting in the ECU.

EJ22E 2.2L Motors (Phase 2 preferably, but Phase 1 motors will bolt up just a hole on the starter won't line up and I think a transmission hole doesn't line up) EJ25 (think the D, 1, and maybe the 2) 2.5l motors EJ20 I think most, if not all of the EJ motors that are '96 or newer should work.

Well the options just became very limited. I had a noise I was hoping was a tensioner or water pump, but I wasn't that lucky. 3 Different mechanics confirmed it's the beginnings of a rod knocking. :-( My choices are either rebuild this engine, pick up a used engine, or pick up a used short block.

Just because a PCV Valve still moves does not mean it's working right. If it's too weak it can be letting way to much blow in from the crank case. If the spring is too gummed up it can be letting crank case pressure build higher than it should before opening up.

My first thought is battery cables, battery, and corrosion. Trace both cables back and make sure they are firmly attached. if there is corrosion on either end some baking soda and water will clean it off. This may not apply to Subarus but on my Durango the ignition switch is failing. if I don't have it in the correct position none of my accessories, radio turn signals etc..., work. But with the full reset you run into occasionally this sounds more like a battery issue or connection issue.

You don't mention if your OBS is a standard or automatic. I ordered a TYC radiator this week for mine. Being an automatic I couldn't find an all aluminum radiator. If your OBS is a standard the all aluminum are readily available.

I just picked up the '06 WRX Struts today. Hoping to either buy/rent a spring compressor in the morning and at least get the fronts on before I have to get my son.

If you are worried about the tires sitting all summer you can cover them, like some said, or you can put the car up on cinder blocks and take the tires off. By putting it on cinderblocks you get a more even weight distribution (less likelyhood of sinking). Plus they are cheap. And if you really want to protect that beamer move out west where we don't salt the roads.

This isn't a recommendation, just correcting the misinformation that NAPA gave you. Bosch plug wires carry a lifetime warranty as well. I put them on my '90 Legacy and have the boxes for them which go on and on about there warranty. Just remember, a warranty doesn't mean a product is good or bad. And I can't vouch for Bosch as they haven't been on the car long enough.

Yeah, when you actually can click on the picture it says STI Supercharger. Subasaurus comment is why I said that. lol

I can't zoom in on my phone but that looks like part of a turbo, not a second ac. lol

You didn't buy a new car, you bought a used car. It doesn't matter where you bought it, unless it came with a warranty. And if you bought it in June of last year, then it isn't there responsibility at all. Look for a local Subaru shop (not the dealer), hop online and find a compressor and it should be able to be fixed for under a grand.