lstevens76

Blanket. Jumper Cables. Depending on time of year, tire chains. Tow Rope/Chain. Flashlight (Dual Use ones w/ a wide beam light and a normal light are best). 12v air compressor (although if you have a dead battery and a flat tire I suspect you have other things to deal with. ). 1 Gallon Gas Can (in those emergencies if you miss the gas station you'r not trying to find the gas can, just get to the gas station). The parts sound good as well, but the water is necessary. I also tend to carry some "snack foods", enough to get 2 people by for 2 days is what usually stays in my emergency box for car trips.

I don't know what the story is on this car, but if it has a decent body and motor it's really not worth giving up on. Around here a 97 Legacy is worth $2k with problems, more if it runs well and doesn't have problems. Don't know about where your at.

Ok, so now I'm getting a P0441 after driving around 50 miles, but I was also under 3/4 of a tank when it came on. I cleared it earlier drove around 20 miles and it hasn't come back (not even pending) yet so I think that's the gas cap. But, while I was at a friends house I discovered I have a coolant leak, but not sure where. I have 2 primary possible culprits. Either the thermostat isn't working worth a darn or it's non-existent. If it's non-existent this means no gasket which = obvious probable coolant leak. I also noticed the radiator cap is not OEM and doesn't feel to have the correct tension on it, secondary problem. And after the tires were balanced the wobble and spring noise aren't near as bad. It still needs struts, but it's a lot nicer to drive now. I'm just glad I know how to do all the mechanic work myself, and I'm glad that I buy tires from Discount since they balanced these tires for free.

Is this a Standard or an Automatic? If it is a Standard you should be able to put it in gear to get that bolt off. If not usually autozone and oreilly's, along with others, rent a crankshaft bolt tool for doing this. Not sure if that would work right for a Subaru as I just used an impact wrench myself. Now, which timing marks did you use? There are usually two, one that is very obvious and another than is painted on (or wore thin painted on from age). One set is for how it's supposed to be when they assemble, the second set is after they assemble the motor and have everything correct and remark it. They are usually very close together. On my '90 legacy they were maybe a 1/2" apart. The sound, depending on which set you used, could have been a valve smacking a piston based on what you were doing. It is possible, but that doesn't mean you damaged anything yet. The first thing would be to take some pictures and post if you can. From the way it sounds you need this up by Monday. Pictures of what your dealing with are always the best way to get help.

What about the blinker relay? And what car?

The speedo is slow to react and is fast 2 to 3mph on average. But that is a completely separate issue and has nothing to do with the adapter I don't believe.

Ok, no more CEL! I can move onto other things. Some things I forgot above that are on my list: Timing Belt Covers and Idlers thermostat Transmission Service (hasn't been done in at least 8 years that I know of since the PO never had it done and had owned the car since '07). It's raining and my phone doesn't like me at the moment plus I need a shower and change of clothes before I go running around so I'll get pictures later. I'm also working on cleaning out the inside so I can vacuum and at least get rid of some of the dirt.

Well, I must have it back together right. Did about a 20 mile test run and no more CEL's! YAH!

Ok, so I really like this car. I have another post about when I bought it and some of the stuff I need to do to it. This is my build thread where I can not only keep track of all the work I've done but also it allows me a single place to ask for help and for people to follow what I'm doing, since I have a lot of fun plans for this car. So, to begin with I bought this '96 Subaru Impreza OBS for $450. It runs and drives, but of course for this cost it's going to have problems. Two of the tires were good, two were about bald, and the rims were toast. It had a knock sensor CEL and a Speed Sensor CEL and the speedometer didn't work. Someone had tried to steal the stereo and broken all the trim around it along with the face and face attachment plastic for the stereo. The blower motor doesn't work, the struts are shot (possibly bad springs now too). The body has damage, but almost all of it is in removable parts (i.e. doors, fenders, etc...) and the interior is extremely dirty. The back hatch lock isn't working correctly and the carpet/mats are completely missing from the back. The timing belt idlers need replaced (skate board sound). The power steering is leaking up near the pump and he was putting "Power Steering Fluid" in it. I know, it says it on the cap, but that means you have to read the cap................ The alternator wiring is kind of screwed. There was a short at the bolt on spot I guess (that's what he told me) and he did some jimmy rigged thing that I will have to correct later. AC Belt is not attached and he direct wired the AC fan (for no good reason) because it wasn't coming on (which of course it's not going to come on with the AC off!). What I've done so far: Picked up a brand new set of 185/70/14 Toyo Eclipse on 5x100 Rims and put them on (total cost $100). Replaced Knock Sensor ($45) Replaced Speedometer adapter ($15) Replaced Front Windshield Wipers ($30) Replaced Center Console Trim and found an Alpine Stereo on CL ($20) like what was in it so it just plugged right in. Replaced PVC ($1.99) Things to still do: Spark Plugs Spark Plug Wires (don't want to do these until I have the PS leak fixed because I want nice and pretty NGK blue ones. ) Power Steering Pump, possibly the rack as well Struts/springs Air Filter Blower Motor Problem resolved AC Fixed (yes I want my AC! ) Bulbs for Heater Controls/Gear Selection (it's an Automatic. Don't go the 5 speed thing please as my right shoulder is a problem and shifting causes me problems). I'll post up some new pictures of the car in a bit, including the nasty dirty interior that I'm starting on today. My most pressing questions are regarding struts right now: Will Impreza OBS Top Hats fit over Forester Strut/spring assemblies? How much lift would "JUST" Forester Struts give (no spacers) and would it require the links, etc... as it does when doing a full lift? Either way on that question, how long do Subaru Struts tend to last? I'm considering a full used set to begin with (Either OBS or Forester) so I don't have to count coils to make sure it wasn't lowered or having a broken one. It also gives me the entire setup for each strut so if I pull it out and find a broken spring, top hat, bottom, etc... I already have all the parts this way. And this forum is great. I've gotten tons of help and really appreciate all of it.

Ok, so I'm ready to put this back together and put the Air Intake back on. The problem is: 1.) I'm not sure it was right the first time. 2.) The first time I took it off I didn't pay enough attention to the hoses. I just want to make sure it's right. The '93 to '96 Service Manual I have doesn't include the intake hoses for the "non-turbo". It only includes the info for the turbo. This was one I downloaded online. Before I go assembling this I want to make sure it's right. What would be perfect is a few pictures of one that is right (i.e. a picture of the overall then close ups of where the hoses are connected and where they route to from the intake). Thanks.

I got and in case anyone else runs across this I'll explain how I got it (unlike the couple other threads that have this same issue on other forums). First, rubber swells and that rubber part was swollen so I picked at it a bit with a screwdriver and had part of it out, i.e. releasing some tension. I had tried this ealier, but with the rubber part way out it worked this time. I took the extra long needle nose and stuck them down in the center and spread them apart (so the ends were against the inside edge of that metal washer). I pried up. It took a couple of times but the washer finally popped up. I had to remove the rest of the rubber using the needle nose (of course it was basically sealed to the sides and glued there). I was then able to see the broken bottom piece. The speedo seems a little slow to react, but it is definitely working. So I know the cable/speedo adapter are good. If it's off, etc... that will be at the instrument cluster and that's a project for another day. Now I just have to put the air cleaner, etc... back together.

I have a set of snap-ring pliers, but my set doesn't include anything that would work in this scenario. All the heads are either straight or curve to the inside or 90 angle, not to the outside. And I don't think superglue is going to hold metal to metal well, but I would have to check the bottle (not sure I have a bottle at the moment).

I actually did think about tearing the same stuff off the bottom of the new one and just putting it in. lol But, I like this car a lot. I don't like the idea of doing it half-way unless I just run out of options. The pick and hook set I did think about. My grandfather has a little set, but I think I need something like this: http://www.harborfreight.com/pick-and-hook-set-7-pc-69592.html For the $8 and adding it to my tool set I will do it, if I can't get it out any other way. I need to get the Legacy running again anyways so I can get the window up. lol I have the Alternator here just have to put it in. So, I'll go spend another 15/20 on the Impreza and if I don't have luck I'll put the alternator in the Legacy and jumpbox it to go get tools. :-/ That is unless someone comes up with another idea between now and then.

You wouldn't be "shading" you would be "backkyarding" and that isn't bad. Sounds like you might consider setting up your own shop. It seems you already have most of the knowledge. Just find yourself a good accountant first if you decide to go that route. Shadetree mechanics do partial jobs, jobs not done right, etc.... backyard mechanics just don't have there own shop to work out of. And then there is the mobile mechanics. Some of those guys are the best I've ever worked with.

The problem I'm having is where do I get a grip on it? A friend mentioned drilling a hole and putting a screw in it, which is what I'm seriously contemplating but that means going and borrowing a drill.

So, maybe pictures will help. If you've ever dealt with these you'll recognize the complete adapter. It's the one w/ the black washer and metal washer glued to the bottom. Looking at that, you can then see my old one and what is stuck in the transmission. Where it's supposed to screw into (but won't due to the rubber/metal washer stuck in there) Yes, my garage is a disaster. Still going through stuff from storage as I move in. Better close up of where it's supposed to go:

That's about as rough as the ones on the 2.2L that you have to remove the air cleaning and all the PVC hoses to get to it. Another thing has your PCV Valve ever been changed? Also, what plug wires did they install? It seems that is a common problem with Subaru's and cheap wires as well. What plugs did they put in might be another issue? Before changing it you might unplug it and see what happens. Also, I use Torque (app for android) and a Bluetooth OBD2 scanner myself on all OBD2 cars. It makes life easier because unlike a normal scanner you can see real time fuel trim information along with real time coolant sensor and MAP information. A cheap temp reader ($25 or so) at Harbor Freight could tell you if it's reading correctly or not. Just some other thoughts. I do my own mechanic work out of necessity and sometimes by choice. Necessity = cost and choice = fun.

Ok, it's been a long tiring day. I didn't make it to Jalopy Jungle (our local pick a part) nor Barger (LKQ) auto parts (used parts store). But I did get a lot accomplished. First started out the day doing the knock sensor. It seems I have a 1995 Knock Sensor on a 1996 OBS, but the problem is fixed. I didn't think it could run much better, but it does. I then went and picked up the tires above, already mounted on 5x100 14" rims. They are Toyo Eclipse and when Discount put them on and measured the tread they are literally still brand new (no tread wear showing). Got those for $100 and the rims bolted right up. I also managed to get wiper blades on it and got the outside washed, but the inside is still nasty and I'm hoping to get to that this weekend. I picked up the part for the speedo fix, and that well hasn't been going well. I do have a post up about it though. I also picked up the PVC, but haven't done that yet. I'm now getting a P0441 but that could be due to me having something back on incorrectly. I'm not going to mess with that code until the speedo sensor is fixed because I'm just going to be pulling the air cleaner back off again. I also know I need a thermostat. I'm hoping there is one in it that is just malfunctioning. I have never seen it hot, but this was the first day we got over 70 since I've owned it. When I drove from Meridian to Nampa (about 13 miles) I noticed at a stop sign I was "warm", not boiling hot. The minute I started moving it went down fine and didn't seem to rise like that again. But the other day on the interstate it dropped way low. I'm thinking a sticky malfunctioning thermostat. Sometimes it sticks open, other times it sticks closed until RPM's go up and the water pressure kicks it open. Oh, I also got a stereo in it and the center console trim that was missing. It appeared (forgot to ask) that someone tried to steal the stereo without a screwdriver. Ripped out the trim pieces, ripped the face and plastic behind the face off the deck. It was an older alpine and the ********* who installed it cut the harness and wired the alpine harness in direct, don't know how I'm going to rectify that yet. I found a used alpine deck of the same era w/ the same harness plug on Craigslist for $20 and now I have music/cd. The speakers actually sound good in it. Here is what I mean by a "nasty" interior. Just to note the the altnerator, window switch, blue jacket, empty milk bottle, tools (that black box in the back w/ the duffle bag), the empty MD Throwback, and the stuff on the passenger seat is mine. All the stuff in the way back was there when I bought it. That dirt on the back seat, there when I bought it. I think those are the floor mats on the passenger side floor, but I haven't even had the time to get them out of the car.

Ok, so narrowing down on the problems and for me this is the biggest one, especially since I like to play and at 80 you feel like your doing 50 so not really good for possible tickets. I located the problem which is the slot part of the adapter (sensor) was broke. I got the new part today and went to install it which is when the problems started. The biggest problem I have is that it appears the slotted part that broke is still in place. It's basic pot aluminum so of course a magnet won't work (then again if they had used steel or better quality aluminum it might not have broke in the first place). I can't figure out how the **** to get this thing out! Any help please!

my pretty looking basically brand new set of toy eclipse I found on CL for $100. That was all 4 tires, rims, and hubcaps. they came off a 1994 Plymouth Sundance it was rear ended two weeks after the tires were put on.

pontoontodd - I may have time next week but if the Legacy sells this weekend I'm thinking about just doing all 4 struts with KYB OEM Replacements. They are just over $200 from rock auto and then a $40 rebate. Between the knock sensor, speedo cable part, tires, and then the struts mechanically I'm hoping this thing will be good to go. I'm putting the knock sensor, speedo cable, and a PCV valve in it tomorrow.

Well one place says they think it's one or both front axles. They also said the struts are shot, which I already thought. Speedometer will be fixed tomorrow. It was that stupid little adapter. The slotted end was simply non-existent when I pulled it out.

I'm thinking Struts as well and they are on sale right now if I do all 4 (although not sure I'm prepared to spend that much right this second). But, I hate jumping into a project without knowing for sure and I really hate doing things half-a**. There are two places here that usually will do a free full check on the front end on a hoist and give me an idea of what's wrong so if I dive into it I can do everything that's wrong, instead of just 1 thing. (I.E. it could struts and ball joints or something like that). Now, to add more I should have added last night: Pulled codes and got P0325 (unexpected), P0441 (unexpected) and P0500 (expected since the speedo doesn't work). After pulling codes I cleared them and some came back (haven't retested yet). I drove about 3 miles to my sons school and parked in line to pick him up. When the line started moving it wouldn't start again, just crank and crank and crank. Pushed it out of the way and opened the hood. I was thinking ECT, but with a hot engine I couldn't easily get to it so I unplugged the one sensor I could easily get to, the MAF, and it started. I won't guarantee that's the problem but every time I plugged it back in for the first couple tries it wouldn't start. I banged on it a little and plugged it back in then it started and ran fine again. Overall it does run fine. I do hit the rev limiter if I'm moving down the road in anything but 1st gear and go somewhere over 4k rpm. I believe that is due to the malfunctioning (non-working) speedometer. I'm open to all advice, but I'm also documenting this stuff for my own future reference. EDIT: Oh, I also have that "in gear" vibration that seems to be pretty common with no sure cause. The vibration that only happens when its in reverse or forward drive gears on the auto, but no in N or P.

I'm still learning the subaru computer's personality (every manufacturer's computer has its own). There is a possibility, after thinking about it, you could be getting a code 21 due to the lack of a thermostat, nothing more. The reasoning behind this might be the computer is looking for a specific temperature within a certain amount of time. If it's not getting it the system may be assuming everything else is correct, but the ECT is misreporting. I would replace the PCV regardless if you don't know when it was last done. It's a $1.99 and 5 minutes to change. I am curious now if the code clears and doesn't come back once the thermostat is replaced.

So, to update the whole scenario. After driving it last night and this morning/evening I discovered something new that is the most pressing matter now until I know what it is (then I might back burner it). When going over bumps, need to be going over 15/20 mph, I get something I can only describe as a "springy" or "wobbly" noise. At faster speeds this transmits to the steering wheel w/ a wobble in it (30/35+ mph). If your old enough and remember the springs you could "spring" and they would take a few seconds to go back but would make that "springy" sound that is what it sounds like. I know, weird noise. Anyone have any ideas? And I think I figured out how to disconnect the speedometer at the transmission. Is it those retainer clips then just pull it out?