lstevens76

Well, I'm new here and on to the second Subaru I've owned, although I joined due to the first. I'm not new to Subaru's although I'm new to owning them. I grew up in a small ski resort town and it seemed like Subaru's were about the most popular car around so I saw tons of them. Then my mom picked up an 80's era little 2 door hatchback (don't remember the model but FWD only). She took that thing that people with 4x4's trucks didn't want to go and it did it. I learned to drive stick in that car (couldn't use the old ford pickup w/ an auto until I could drive the stick). Don't remember why she got rid of it. Why I haven't owned one until now, I don't know. But my story began in looking for a gas saver because I realized my Durango wasn't going to cut it with the running I have to do for my son. 13mpg just eats way to much gas when your putting on 50 miles a day. About 1 1/2 years ago my grandfather picked up this 1990 Subaru Legacy for my uncle without a title, title was out of state, and beat up for $200. My uncle went rounds, with my help, and got the title transferred to him (still out of state but now in his name). Just before he received the title it started making one hell of a noise in the engine. To me and others it sounded like bearings in a pulley somewhere, but it definitely wasn't in the accessory belts. I decided it was a timing belt tensioner (not knowing how the Subaru ones worked thinking of the ones w/ idlers on them) and that was it. He wasn't sure so I ended up buying it for the $200. A friend helped out and we got the timing belt, water pump, idlers, spark plugs, and wires all done. It fired right up no problem and when we were working the problem became obvious when there were no bearings left in the cogged idler and it was rubbing on the center directly. So I've been working out issues with this gave saver and having major issues with my right shoulder (standard 5 speed), but the shoulder issues aren't due to the car it's just escalating it. I don't really care for the body style and it needs quite a bit for a car I'm not going to be happy with in the end. I put it up for sale (hasn't sold yet, but lowering the price) and started looking. I decided I wanted an outback w/ blown head gaskets to Blue Devil as a temp fix and then do the head gaskets later (i.e. cheap fixer upper but a newer body style and a car I would be happy with in the end). After looking around and seeing them around $1,000 that is where i priced the '90 (which does run really good). Then an Impreza popped up for $675. I looked up what this '96 Impreza "could" look like and saw all the potential. The scooped hood, nice rims/tires, etc... Just a nice clean fun ride, which is what I wanted. Went and looked at it, and the rest is on here. Bought it for $450 and now the project begins. Oh, and as for me I'm 38 and have a 7 year old son. I plan to do a lot of camping this summer and this or my Durango will be the ones taking us.

Thank you for the info on struts from a 98 Legacy. I was actually thinking it probably needed struts and was considering junkyarding them anyways so going for those out of a 98 legacy would be just as easy as an impreza. As for the dents they will get fixed "AFTER" all my mechanical concerns are done. Have to have it safe and fit to drive all the time before I worry about a few dings. This car actually won't be going up in the woods a whole lot. I have a Dodge Durango for that. This will be my around town and trip car. If I can get it safe enough by June or July I'm going from Boise, ID to Eugene, OR to see family.

For me this is the kind of project I've been looking for. I can drive it and through money at it when I have it to fix things. I like the body style and to me it has loads of potential. From what I've noticed a good 2.2L engine is worth as much as I paid for the whole car. But I have to set my priorities and it has a list, I do mean a list. First, I've read up on the speedometer cable, and a '96 should still be a cable, and I believe I've located the tranny side. What I can't figure out is how it comes apart. I've read that both the insert into the transmission, the cable itself, and the gear inside the transmission could all be suspect so before I go scrounging parts at a junk yard I want to figure out which one it is. Any help? Second, the blower motor doesn't work. It was a nice day out here yesterday so when I test drove it I didn't even think to check it. The heat definitely works as it blows nice warm air on hot but the blower is obviously not coming on at any speed. All of the rest of the issues will wait until I get matching tires on it and the speedometer fixed. Until those two things are done I can't differentiate what is tires or problems due to not getting the right speed information, etc....

It's an EJ22, standard. Not a ZZ, etc.... It is a non-interference motor just like the 1990 Legacy parked in front of my house. Pictures. As I said it's a little beat up, but 99% of the damage is all on changeable parts. This is a project for me so mechanical things first then I'll work on the body/interior. He threw in a nice JVC stereo but doesn't know if it works (someone tried to steal the stereo that was in it).

Bought for $450. Comments on how I did? I'll post the pictures later

I can get that dog hair out with my Kirby no problem. It comes down to the vacuum and a good detail shop with a commercial vacuum system for detailing will get that right out without a problem.

Ok, I'm allergic to cats (although I've adjusted to it enough I live with one but still have sinus issues and allergy pills). I'm also allergic to dust and other things. I am fairly certain all the newer Subaru's have cabin air filters. A good detail shop will shampoo "ALL" the upholstery after pulling the removable seats (i.e. the lower part of a back seat, etc...) to vacuum. In a Legacy at least all that back carpet and seats where the animals would have ridden would be completely cleaned. But, the other way to test is take your daughter with you for the test drive. Go for a ride and see how she reacts. Even tell the dealer what the problem is before you go for the drive. They may know the previous owner, especially if it is only 1 or 2 years old. What I'm trying to say is don't just through out the used car option. I'm a parent as well so I understand the concerns, but if you can get a nicer car that would work better for your family used then do that instead.

AC Belt isn't even on. The system did have some freon in it, so if it is leaking it's a minor leak since it's had the belt off for over a year. I'm not worried about the AC at the moment as I know how to fix that and it doesn't affect "Drive-ability" here, other than making it hot to drive come summer. I believe the pump has been run dry so I figured on replacing it and it's good to know about that bearing for any Subaru I get. The actual major issues with this that I found are: 1.) That noise, which everyone seems to agree is probably timing belt idlers. 2.) Timing Belt Covers need replaced (non-existent) 3.) Speedometer cable is non-functional (broke at either the top, bottom, or both). 4.) Left Front Fender needs replaced (not immediately, but not realistically repairable) 5.) Left Front Door needs replaced (same as fender) 6.) Right Rear Door needs replaced (this one is possibly repairable, but I'm not a body guy) 7.) Needs Tires 8.) Power Steering Pump needs replaced The Good: All the windows works, it starts right up and runs fine. No noises from the front or rear end when driving (drove it around the block a few times wobbled the steering ,etc... looking for problems) Heater works fine, tach works, etc... Seats are in good shape, carpet near drivers side door needs work but that was it for the interior. New Windshield no cracks in any of the glass.

The leak on the reservoir is obvious. It almost appears that the seal between the top and bottom half the reservoir is shot. Yeah, I was thinking bearing as well. Specifically I was thinking timing belt idler bearings, which is what my cousin (he's a sub fan) things as well. The sound was done w/ the timing belt covers off. Although the belt has been done recently along with the water pump he didn't know to do the idlers so they could be original. Basically it's a '96 Impreza Outback w/ the 2.2L and Auto. It has 175k on it (I think it was 173 something, but rounding up). The guy is a "sort of" backyard mechanic who appears to get easily distracted (i.e. did the timing belt, put it back together to test, then didn't take it back apart to put the covers back on). A lot of little things here and there but it seems to run good and it's well under a grand.

So I looked at a 96 Impreza Outback today and I am interested, but there is an odd noise from the engine compartment that I'm unsure about. So, I'm attacking the audio (would have been video but my phone was to dead). Opinions? The change in the sound was I moved my phone from the passenger side of the engine to the front and around there. I didn't realize it was picking up such an obvious change in sound as it moved around. It does sound more near the passenger side than the drivers side. Also, to note, at the time the PS Pump was basically close to empty as well. The pump is leaking and needs replaced, so that is a possibility. Record_0002.wav

Are you sure it's just 3 fast flashes? It will repeat if you watch it. Just asking because a single "3" doesn't sound accurate to any code I know. http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/codes.htm That's the list I use.

Have you checked out the ECT? When it's idling rough try disconnecting it and see if the problem goes away. Also, vacuum leaks are a possibility.

Check to make sure the bolts/nuts are tight on the exhaust shields and that all of them are there. It sounds like some of the externals weren't put back together right and it's better to make sure it's right. As Lucky stated, check the motor mounts. It could be heat dependent because there is more torque in the engine on a cold start vrs a warm start. Another thing to check for based on symptoms would be all the flywheel (clutch) bolts are back in place along with the starter bolts and that they are tight. I would also check all the transmission bolts as well.

First, is the thermostat stuck open or is "non-existent"? I don't like saying this, but I've seen a lot of people who will pull a thermostat on an overheating car just to sell it and then claim the thermostat is "stuck open". Never trust a car with a "stuck open" thermostat. It could be getting "erroneous readings" which means it is sort of working but not correctly. Either way it needs replaced and while your at it I would do the PCV as well since you have to disassemble those hoses. Around $30/$35 in parts and maybe an hour to do the work. You can verify the fans work with 2 green connectors under the dash. On my '90 they were close the center, but most places say they are to the left of the column. When you plug these together the fans should cycle on and off with the key on (I wouldn't recommend starting it this way). This way you know the fans are working. That video shows you it pretty good. A 19mm socket (deep as you can get), swivel, decent extension, and a ratchet.

The difference with a used car and low miles vrs a new car isn't the "asking price" its how much you can get them down in price. If your not good at dickering ask a friend or family member to come with you who is. As for the pet issue, most dealers do a full interior shampoo. If they haven't you can sometimes put them in a position to have to do it before you pick it up by bringing up the allergies. I.E. they shampoo the interior or you don't buy it. And if it's a good detail shop that does it, you won't have an issue. If your pushing your limits on a new car then you really should consider a used one. I can't comment on the newer models, but I own a 90 Legacy L and that car is simply unkillable in my opinion (then again I haven't, and won't, try running it out of oil or coolant. lol).

Ok. So partway fixed. Put a used alternator in and the dash light problem is resolved. It idles better, but it's still somewhat rough and takes 30 to 60 seconds to go from 1k rpm down to 750 after depressing the clutch. what was done: Used alternator new ect new fuel filter new pcv

Pulled the code last night and got 21. This isn't OBD 2 so Parts Stores aren't going to pull them. The code points to an issue w/ the ECT so I will be replacing it in the next few days along with the Fuel Filter and the PCV. Hoping that corrects the idle problem. The hum noise when turning left concerns me due to the fact it is only there when turning. So any ideas on that? And I would like to know what could be the causes of the window problems. That window simply drives me nuts because I can't easily put it back up while driving. I have had it apart and looked, but without a reference to base off or ideas of what to look for I'm not sure how things are supposed to be in there. It's not the same as my Durango which I have replaced a window regulator on. And leaving me on the side of the road doesn't concern me as much as something causing an accident, such as that hum. This is my gas saver and I still have my '01 Durango which I 100% trust (I've done a ton of work to it myself) and if the Subaru dies on the side of the road I can just go to tow it home w/ the Durango and a buddy's tow dolly. But if that hum noise is something serious and I lose a tire, lay a tire down flat, etc... and cause an accident there isn't any towing home from that.

Thinking about this I should add a few more things regarding the idle issue: Cold starts are almost always perfect. Warm starts sometimes take 30 to 60 seconds for it to catch and start. I've also seen some idle speed fluctuations. Normally appears to idle around 750 but goes up to 1k rpms at times and holds, then goes back down, etc... Occasionally it will do an up/down thing a few times before settling.

Ok, so what was it?

Prior to roughly Spring of 2014 I know nothing about this car, other than it was in Washington. My grandfather bought it for my Uncle who had fun getting a title. It started making a horrid noise (will get there) and he parked it so I bought it for what was originally paid ($200) minus any costs getting the title. I already was sure of what the problem was when I bought it, and I was right. One of the idlers (the cogged one) for the timing belt had blown apart internally. Fortunately it wasn't driven really after this happened so a new timing belt, idlers, and water pump and it runs. Now to the issues: 1.) I get intermittent Battery, Stop Lamp, and Brake lights all at the same time on the dash. What's weird about this even more is the headlights brighten when these come on, not dim, and when they go off they dim. This light issue isn't consistent though (brightning and dimming) and I don't know if that happens much during the day. The battery has been replaced since I've owned (been running almost a month now). 2.) I need to pull codes (been reading on that) as I have a rough idle, but sometimes it smooths out, and sometimes it doesn't. Today was the first time I've seen the check engine light so I do want to pull codes, but I'm all ears for any other ideas. When the timing belt was done I also replaced the plugs and wires (NGK Platinum and Bosch Wires). 3.) When turning to the left I hear a "hum" from what seems to be the right front. This only occurs when turning to the left, and at no other times. 4.) Drivers side window (see picture) tilts to the front, likes it's off the front track. I looked inside and it appears it has a regulator and a slider in front. Does the slider actually hold the front of the window in place or is this a problem with the regulator staying level? I may come up with more issues later, but these are the most pressing ones. This is my "gas saver beater" I use to run my son to and from school so I want it to be safe and reliable. Thanks.