lstevens76

Ok, here is how you get around all of that (other than the taxes). Buy the vehicle. Fix the vehicle. Drive it while for sale (suddenly you are the titled owner and using it for personal use). That just made any flip completely legal. This is the way most flippers in Idaho and other areas do it to my knowledge. It doesn't state "how long" you have to use it for personal use, just that it needs to be used for personal use.................. Personally I seem to flip vehicles just to upgrade. lol Like right now I'm considering sell my '00 OBS to get a '03 OBS w/ a rod knock to fix. I might sell it to get a newer one w/ issues as well after I fix it. lol

Going down the highway at 65 is the one place my OBS did not overheat. It's common to not overheat during those times because of the airflow your getting around the engine, etc... The more common overheat points are at an idle or stop and go traffic type things. If you turn the AC on in stop and go traffic a vehicle is more prone to overheat if there is a problem that moving at a constant speed. If the Radiator Cap is not OEM I would order one. They are not very expensive and it's peace of mind.

A 2.5 Block + 2.2 Heads = More compression, torque, and HP. A 2.2 Block + 2.5 Heads = less compression, torque, and HP. The first is the common frankenmotor for NA builds. The second has been used for Turbo Builds as the lower compression supports boost where the higher compression one has a lot more risk when boosting and isn't advised due to the compression. Have you thought about just replacing the bearings? Around $100 for a full set.

Only 11 states in that list have a "local tax". Most states use Sales tax, registration fees, or additional gas taxes to cover the costs that a vehicle on the road adds to maintenance and repairs the state/county have to pay for. Personally I'm not going to live anywhere they are charging me a "property tax" on personally owned items. Considering some of the principles that caused this country to be founded I'm surprised they not only put the laws in place, but no one is fighting them.

With most Subaru's they do not burn coolant so you it is unlikely you will see white smoke for a BHG. My '96 OBS with a BHG never blew white smoke, but it could pop the cap off the radiator no problem from pressure build up. Symptoms to watch for: Random overheating Bubbles in Coolant Reservoir A BHG in a subaru can (as I said above) pop the cap off the radiator, it can also cause the radiator to crack. The compression gasses getting into the coolant can sometimes increase pressure faster than the cap can release it. That being said, it is an EJ22 which are not as common for a BHG. Now, I've ridden a motorcycle on ice and they aren't as bad as most people think. But when there is ice on the roads it's pretty damn cold to be on a motorcycle. lol You should have another month, maybe two, before worrying about snow and ice. I would drive it and push it a little to see if any symptoms return. The bubbles could have been air in the system from the system not being bled properly...........

If the Junkyard has another engine, go inspect it. See if it has the same problems. If it doesn't I would swap engines. If they over torqued in one place the question is where else did they?

Personally I've never bothered because I prefer to know when they squeal. If you have a quality pad it's only going to squeal when you got a rock caught in it, etc.... or when the pads are worn down.

The only advantage the stock radios have going for them is Weatherband. For a '99 Impreza finding the adapter harness and adapter plates are as simple as hopping on Crutchfield.com and ordering them. I would suspect most audio shops would carry it as well. The harness is pretty standard for a lot of years/model subarus. As for Stereo my preference is Kenwood. I paid around $70/$80 for my deck on Amazon with Bluetooth (mic included) AM/FM/CD/MP3/WMA, etc....

Those are press in so your looking at a hefty chunk of labor if you have a shop do it. And you would definitely want to be sure of which one is bad so you aren't paying for all 4. Did you get any service records with this? If not I would pull a carfax and see if any of the service was reported. It might be a lot easier on your wallet if you find out the timing belt was done 10k miles ago or something.

I would start by checking opposedforces.com and going to the Junkyard to find a MAF that matches (maybe grab 2?). Then try that and see what happens. I don't think your MAF is the problem.

First, what year and model? The forester came in a few different trim styles. Typically a Timing Belt shouldn't take more than 2 hours at a shop, 3 hours if they do the cam seals. The wheel bearing depends on the year. Different years had different setups.

A new radiator isn't that bad in price. Have you checked car-part.com for the fog light?

Pick up caliper grease. You will want to grease the caliper pins and I also grease the bolts so next time they come out easy and don't seize in.

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/ptd/5217405339.html Considering that car is worth $3k+ up there it might be worth the time looking for something like I linked above. If you can get a running EJ25 for it and swap it the car is going to be better off in the long run.

Ok, why are you going to pull the manifold to pull the knock sensor? 12mm socket + extension it should come right out and put the new one in. It might take a little finagling to get it in, but a lot faster and easier than pulling the intake.

opposedforces.com and you can cross reference which vehicles/years have the same part numbers. The coil should not be different between an auto/manual. Either you have a faulty MAF or a wiring issue somewhere. A wiring issue could be causing all your problems though. Have you verified all the harness connections are tight? Specifically the ones that connect the engine harness, etc... to the main harness. I would also follow the MAF one back and check to make sure it's connected tight as well.

You had it running with starter fluid right? If it ran and started with starter fluid have you done as Fairtax mentioned and tried to keep it running with starter fluid? If it starts, runs, and will keep running with starter fluid you don't have a spark issue it's a fuel issue. The hot wire to the coil is going to do damage and not good. You have an igniter on the back firewall that goes before the coil to create spark. And, IIRC, that igniter doesn't receive "constant" signal from the ECU but an intermittent signal as the ECU itself controls the ignition timing. A straight hot wire isn't going to give you the correct spark. This isn't like a car with a distributor where the ignition timing was controlled by the rotation of the engine. Let's backup a second. 1.) Did you clear codes? 2.) After clearing those codes did any return? 3.) Did you attempt a start as recommended by fairtax and keep spraying to see if it continues to run? 4.) Have you checked fuel pressure yet? (You can rent a gauge set at most auto parts stores for free w/ a deposit or buy one at harbor freight) You need to do things in order. Running wires and such tends to cause problems. If you don't have a Digital Multimeter go to walmart or someplace and buy a cheap one. Even if its cheap and out of calibration it's still going to show you whats going on for the most part.

Any option using a 2.5 Block (EJ25) and stock length rods is going to be interference due to the EJ25 being stroked in comparison to the EJ22.

If your profile is right and your in Washington you should read this: http://www.emissiontestwa.com/e/faq.aspx#3 Washington requires emissions testing on a car that new at time of sale or when the tags are renewed. Your county may not be one yet, but that is constantly changing. And you have to factor in that it would be very easy for someone from a nearby county to purchase it later that does require emmissions. You have to remember that swap is a "LONG TERM" thing and if in a year or two you want to sell the car to upgrade or whatever.......................

I'll give a great example here so you can understand some of it. I have a business (not specific selling cars) and I have a tax ID number. I could purchase a car, within the 5 limit, and not pay any taxes on it. Do whatever I want to it in order to resell it for more than what I paid then resell it and there will only be one tax paid on that car, buy the end buyer. When buying something for resale the "middle man" per say doesn't pay tax on the purchase, only the end buyer pays taxes on the purchase. If I want to sell my 5 cars a year as "flippers" I can do so without paying taxes on any of it, as the parts would be tax free as well and applied to the end "product" and shown as such on taxes. Basically until the product reaches the "consumer" and is not in the hands of some sort of business sales tax at least isn't supposed to be charged. And actually I already did that once this year unintentionally. I bought my first Subaru from my Uncle and never transferred the title. After fixing it and driving it I realized a standard as a daily driver in stop and go traffic wasn't going to work. I found an auto and sold that one after it getting a new timing belt kit w/ pulleys, etc..., water pump, and some other stuff.

Ok, option 1 requires cometic head gaskets . If you can find a set of Phase 2 2.2 Heads that will use stock turbo gaskets. 2.5 Block + 2.2 = higher compression and more horsepower, etc... 2.5 Block + those 2.5 heads (which are designed for a turbo) will be less compression and less horsepower. But you could put that 2.5 block w/ 2.5 heads and the turbo from that 2.5 WRX in it................ That's a whole different conversation though.

Evergreen on Amazon is a fine brand as well, but if you buy the kit with a water pump get the one with an Aisin water pump. If the cam seals are not being replaced the whole job should be less than 2 hours. If the cam seals are being replaced figure 3 hours or so. Look around at the labor rates in your town to get an idea of cost. If anyone is quoting more than 2 hours to do the belt, or 3 hours w/ cam pulleys, go somewhere else. A good mechanic should be able to do either of those in about 30 minutes less time (1 1/2 hours for a belt, 2 1/2 hours w/ cam pulley seals). Your due for a coolant change as well as a brake fluid change along with spark plugs. I would also consider spark plug wires while doing plugs, air filter, and fuel filter.

Kicks and giggles put an extension or something against the outside edge of the crank sprocket and smack it with a hammer (preferably a dead blow) to make sure it's seated all the way in. Next inspect the CPS (Crank Position Sensor) and make sure there is no visible signs of damage, maybe clean the contacts a bit. I'm not saying it will start after this, but it's worth a shot to try. Especially if it's been cranked over and over with the crank pulley off.

Okay, Idaho law actually says "without a dealer's license" and you are allowed to sell 5 cars per year for profit or otherwise. I don't know of a state that doesn't allow a person to sell a car for profit or limit that in anyway. Doing so would be fundamentally wrong in the US IMO. As for taxes many people will lower the amount they actually sold the car for when filling out the bill of sale and/or title. This effectively lowers the amount of taxes the buyer needs to pay and tends to make some people willing to pay a higher price since they won't pay as much in taxes. This can be a double edged sword though. If insurance reviews purchase price on an accident it can create problems, etc.... I've heard things like "Well if you found this car for that price, you can find another one", etc... It's all in a personal preference and how honest you want to be with the government.

The outcome was a $300 engine going in the car. As for the no start, the crank sprocket had scooted out just enough to cause it to not be contacting the CPS (Crank Position Sensor). Without info from the CPS the ECU was causing a no-spark situation.