lstevens76

That speed sensor shouldn't be more than $20/$25 and the cable around $40. Here's the speed sensor on the transmission: http://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_1997_Impreza/CABLE-SPEEDOMETER-TRANSMISSION/49283360/737411752.html List price: $13.43 I'm not sure on the cable to the dash, but I could swear it was like $37 list as well.

Oh, check the crank sprocket for damage. Mine ran like that, but the crank sprocket was damaged. Replaced and problem solved.

Coil wires and plugs were $400? That's kind of steep. Your sure the timing is correct? Post pictures of the timing marks would be a good place to start.

Ok have to disagree on the tensioner: This kit includes the Aisin pump and a tensioner. Evergreen TBK172AMHWPA 90-97 Subaru 1.8L 2.2L SOHC EJ18 EJ22 Timing Belt Kit AISIN Water Pump https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NLLH74C/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_GCw1vbRRWS482

The EJ22 weren't known to leak oil from the heads like the EJ25. Oil leaks on the EJ22 tend to be the separator plate in the rear, valve cover gaskets, and the front oil seals. Doing a head gasket while it's out won't hurt anything and will probably prevent a possible future pull, but I wouldn't think it's necessary unless you have good valid reason to suspect they are blown. Here would be my list: Timing Belt, Water Pump, Idlers, possibly tensioner, front cam seals and crank seal, reseal and tighten backing screws on oil pump, separator plate, inspect rear main seal, valve cover gaskets. All that's left at that point is the head gasket, intake, and fuel rail/injector o-rings.

As far as the belt goes I've had good luck (along with many others you can google/search here) with the Evergreen (amazon and brand name) or Mitzumo (same brand, different seller on eBay) timing belt kits w/ the Aisin water pumps. I get the whole kit w/ tensioner myself and swap all of it.

The thing to remember is that for every person posting a problem online there are problem 9 more experiencing it and not posting. But, for those 10 people there are probably over 50 that are not experiencing the problem. i.e. when you don't have a problem you don't tend to voice anything. When you do have a problem only 10% of those experiencing tend to voice it. With our access to the internet the visibility of problems has increased, but it doesn't mean it's as big of an issue as it tends to appear when reading all the reviews, etc...

The first thing I would do is check all the belts and make sure they're correctly tight. Then while it is running I would look at the crank pulley and make sure it's not moving.

If you want the best deal you can get, you don't buy the first time you look at it. Yes this means you might miss out, but when you come back (in a day or two) most sellers (including dealers) are more willing to negotiate. And if they aren't just walk away, tends to get them to change their view. And if it's a Subaru, here's the best checklist you can use: http://www.cars.com/go/advice/shopping/cpo/images/subaru-inspection.pdf

The only thing not to use on those full gasket sets is the head gaskets. I have a set here and there are obvious differences in the head gasket when compared to Fel-Pro or OEM (lower quality). But the rest of the gaskets are just as good as Fel-Pro IMO and will hold up fine. I also use the Evergreen (mitzumo I believe sells them on ebay) timing belt kits on my cars and I've been happy with it. Amazon direct from evergreen seems to be cheaper than eBay at times.

Could very likely be a ball joint. That would be my first place to look and the most likely first part to fail on the front end.

Read the live data from the 02 sensors with that code reader. What brand 02 sensors did you put in?

Have you tried to pull the codes to see if they are still stored in the system?

Double check those codes now that you've unplugged the system. They may be stored codes and still need to be resolved. The green connector doesn't usually "cause" codes, it just turns on the fans, solenoids, etc... It should not have affected an 02 sensor though, but could have caused a misfire.

Converting "ANY" AWD vehicle to RWD is going to cost, and usually not cheap. Subaru's are one of the easier ones and some other brand's newer cars you can't even convert it. Just watch your local ads for an old american made car w/ a v8 for cheap. You said your in auto school so find something cheap w/ problems and fix it. Get your burnouts and keep the forester as is.

You just said you had plenty of codes to go with the misfire 1-2-3, did you document them? List them here and let us know what they are. What codes have returned, if any, since you cleared them?

If it does live data are you reading the 02 Sensor information and the voltage specs? I.E. my '00 OBS has a bad rear 02 sensor I need to change. Problems are only intermittent but you can tell w/ live data as it's showing a voltage reading way out of spec (supposed to be .2v to .4v and it reads .7v to .9v at times). That's why I asked about live data. It isn't throwing a code, it's showing the problem in the live data readings.

Do you have a code reader that does live data? This could be a sensor, such as the front 02 sensor, failing after warming up.

If someone is relying on the book rate to do the job, then they should be doing it right. Cutting and splicing is not doing the job right. And that is something else, find a mechanic that does the work correctly not some hap-hazard way that is not going to last. Most of the time the manufacturer installed things the way they did for a reason.

You forget that in the west we don't deal with the salt like the east coast so we don't deal with the rust issues.

I've seen bearings fail in water pumps and if the wrong coolant or tap water was used for an extended period it can cause problems as well. Personally I'm questioning the work that was done. No tensioner replacement automatically sent up red flags to me.

If your lowering your car, then yeah that might be an option. Otherwise I would go with OEM ball joints, if they are bad. But before doing anything I would jack the front of the car up and get it on jack stands then get up under there and check the ball joints/tie rod ends for problems first.

The 1.8 heads on an EJ22 has been done, so it can happen. I'm not saying it's a good idea, but it can be done. You'll find more info on that setup if you google, but if things don't line up correctly.......... And your looking at putting more compression on that lower end. I don't tend to see heads fail on Subaru's so drastically that you need to replace them, it's usually the short block that goes bad. So why are you considering replacing the heads?

I thought about Lemon Laws but didn't mention it for a few reasons: 1.) Most used vehicles are sold "As Is" and the dealerships get you to sign an agreement saying it is "As Is" that was written up by an attorney. I'm not sure how that applies to Lemon Laws after you sign that. 2.) I don't know how long ago the vehicle was purchased compared to problems occurring. If I remember correctly from another thread this hasn't even been 2 weeks since purchase date now. 3.) It was never mentioned to have been looked over by a mechanic before purchase. 4.) He said he was going to talk to the dealer and figured I would wait for there response. That being said, lemon laws or not if the dealer refuses to fix the problems, or come to an equitable solution, I would call the Attorney General for your state if it hasn't been too long. Talk to the Consumer Protection Department (most states have it) and talk to the BBB. Realistically if the dealer refuses I would first talk to the general manager and explain the situation to them and that if they don't want to help I would explain your next steps (i.e. the attorney general and bbb).

Sorry, but that is your driving technique or something is wrong in the brakes. On my '90 Legacy I had, the '96 OBS, and my '00 OBS the brakes start working when the pedal is depressed maybe 1/4 down, but the pedal doesn't feel like it unless your used to it. If I go all the way down as far as you are talking the ABS kicks in, no reason for that to happen.