lstevens76

Jp98 is right in that it is to keep both sides working evenly in systems that work together such as brakes, suspension, etc... Head gaskets though it is just smart because 1/2 the work to get the heads off applies to both sides. Why do one when you don't know the condition of the other and it could fail in a month and you would have to pay it again. It's a risk vrs cost analysis.

I would flush that system as well. You don't know if the hole started from the inside or out. If it started from inside the system it could be due to usage of non-distilled water or being way overdue for a coolant change. In either of those situations getting the possible cause out of the system can help slow or prevent problems with the rest of the system.

Do they have the ability to pull transmission codes from a subaru? These are not pulled through the ecu but through the tcu. And it may be time to find a new shop now, before any more mishaps.

What are the miles? I would put my money on a failed heater hose as those run behind the engine. If that is the case in would not drive it as that may blow the gasket.

Look on the block to the right of the power steering pump for the stamp. That isn't relevant to the engine in the car ad it's listing both. Also on the driver's side fender well there should be a plate affixed that is stamped with what engine came in the car.

https://mega.co.nz/#!XxwRnKQI!MIFxw2L4DacFXxa6SbYgOmh8Rv4vyNoCfo6cIiFzHJw That's the FSM for a '95. I would check the shift linkage (may be out of whack) along with the inhibitor switch. But it also sounds like you might have a failing brake sensor as well. Basically it sounds like you are having two issues, they me be related only to the shift cable. 1.) Vehicle does not start in Park/Neutral 2.) Vehicle does not shift when started (intermittent). A no crank scenario like that tends to lead me to believe the inhibitor switch (neutral safety switch) is out of wack, but it could also be the cable causing it to register incorrectly (possibility). Unable to shift is usually related to not recognizing the brake is depressed, different signal.

Okay, seriously here. Most people I know that own Hondas, Neons, etc... don't get much better gas mileage than I do. So you gain 2 to 3mpg for a loss of AWD and handling? I've driven and owned Honda's and Chrysler cars none of them have handled as well as the Subaru's I've owned (even the FWD Legacy I had). And if you drive "nice" you can pull 30mpg out of a Subaru.................... The biggest things you can do to improve MPG is keep up on maintenance/repairs which you are going to have with "ANY" car you purchase. Besides, unless you drive like 5,000 miles per month your not going to see enough savings to validate the cost of replacing the car.

It sounds like the neutral safety switch is malfunctioning. Basically the car doesn't know what gear it is in so it will not start or allow shifting. It's on the transmission not inside the car.

Here is the link to the factory service manual for an '05 Forester: https://mega.co.nz/#!WhIViDjL!cYhOklAbCxw0kA7PTHfT4h7HC-CH3H-9zqkWqv0xIBA The problem here is if the shop removed the transmission to do engine work then I would question there knowledge of Subaru's. That is the first I've heard of doing this on a Subaru as they are easy to pull just the engine on. In fact they even provide an upper access port to disconnect the torque converter from the Drive Plate (Flex plate). I've pulled 3 subaru engines to date and have yet to pull the transmission with it. Now, onto your problem.... First, when you start up the vehicle does the AT light on the dash light up? If yes does it flash after starting for a few moments? (think the count is 16 times) If it does, or even if it doesn't, have you taken it to a Dealer to have them pull codes from the transmission to verify if there is a problem it might be reporting? The other problem is that if they pulled the transmission there are so many things that have to be disconnected and reconnected that it could be any number of things causing this. Shift lever cable, springs, plates, wiring issues, not fully plugged in connector, etc.... Personally I would take it to a dealer for a code scan before doing anything else unless you want to inspect all the wiring and make sure it's correct first.

My first question is why did they remove the transmission? That only increases the labor cost and time to do the job. There was no reason to remove the transmission to pull the engine. Do you have a factory service manual? I would start by finding one of those.

Based on the various locations you mentioned I would still say the transmission cooler lines are a probable culprit. Another thing is that year should have a spin on external filter. It may be loose and due for replacement.

Ok is that 20k miles? And what vehicle?

It's probably the coolant lines that run up the left hand side of the engine to the radiator.

Well we were both wrong and I'm an idiot for not double checking my work. I forgot to fully tighten the throttle cables. The cruise was too tight and the accelerator was lose and floppy.

Oh, and I don't have a MAF either. This is a MAP based system for the '00 EJ222 not MAF so that eliminates the MAF. I believe my cousin is picking up the gasket for me right now. If not I'll use the silicone, just trying to avoid the problems that can go along with that.

I need to have the scanner hooked up when it's happening. And I'm not sure how to read that on the scanner, still learning. If torque would connect I know I could read it on it. Plus that scanner cord is short so it's annoying to try and keep it plugged in while driving which doesn't help. I did replace two vacuum lines and then cleaned the IACV which I'm at a stand still now since the stupid gasket deformed and I need a new one and I'm stuck at home.

From all the reading I have done if that sensor is throwing mixed signals it can cause the system to go in and out of open loop and closed loop as the readings go in and out of range. Along with this the OBD2 Scanner I'm using is showing ranges on the O2S12 from .1v to .8v. Subaru FSM says: "Read data of rear oxygen sensor signal using Subaru Select Monitor or OBD-II General Scan Tool. : Is the value fixed between 0.2 and 0.4 V? : Go to step 10Q5. : Replace rear oxygen sensor. <Ref. to 2-7 [W8A0].>" I actually see no problems until the car warms up. It is only after the vehicle is warmed up I have problems and then my symptoms are literally exactly as that person with the Baja described. From my understanding of the 02 sensors if the ECU reads a spec out of range (regardless of which one) it switches the loop system and uses other methods to adjust fuel trim instead of the 02 sensors. If I understood the problem the person had (and others have had the same issue that I've read on) it can cause the system to go in and out of each loop. There are actually a lot of threads out there about this, which is why I'm considering disconnecting it (just to see if the problem does go away as well). Same symptoms, multiple attempts at other fixes, then same solution ends up being the rear 02 sensor. If I hadn't gotten first a P0136, then a P0420 (multiple times), combined with the symptoms I'm experiencing I wouldn't have even gone there. But when I find multiple posts with P0136 + surging + replacement of rear 02 correcting the problem I have to go with this.

When was the last tuneup? I.E. Plugs, Wires, PCV Valve, Air Filter, Fuel Filter, etc....?

Ok, so the car is running but having a few issues but let me explain first. When I first got it running I knew the car had sat for a few months and I used the previous engines intake, sensors, etc.... What I replaced was the long block (a literally long block just block + heads + cam sensor is all that was present and the knock sensor was the wrong one for my car so used the one from mine) into the car. All other components were what was on the car. The long block had been sitting for 6+ months I believe so I expected some issues as stuff got cleaned out, etc... First I got a P0136, which I cleared. Then I got a P0420 which I cleared, then I got a lean code (don't remember the code) which cleared. I also ended up with a knock sensor code (which I cleared). Out of all of those one keeps returning with symptoms, the P0420. Upon researching the symptoms I found this post over on NASIOC with exactly the same driving symptoms I am having: I've already ordered the rear 02 sensor and a knock sensor (it did through a code so figured better safe than sorry). The big question I have is if I disconnect the rear 02 sensor should I be able to clear some of these symptoms temporarily while I wait for parts? Also, if I can disconnect to clear some symptoms, what kind of problems may I run into with it disconnected? Thanks.

First thing I would do is put a timing belt on it and see what happens. There is more than one instance on these and other forums that valves didn't bend. It doesn't mean they didn't, but before you go tearing it down find out.

It is doubtful he is going to find a good used EJ222 (Phase 2) or EJ223 (Phase 2) for less than $700. I know I had to search high and low to come up with the one I found for my Subi and then had to travel 1,200 miles round trip to get it. For an EJ25 it will vary as the east coast has a lot easier time finding engines than over here on the west coast where cars don't rust out so much. Here is the question, how is the body and subframe? What rust do you have, how bad is it, and how long do you expect it to hold together? Doing it yourself you could completely rebuild that engine, including machining, for probably $1,500 or less (total) including new pistons, rings, bearings, head gaskets, etc.....

It's a 1996 2.2 which is non-interference unless someone swapped in a newer 2.2. He shouldn't have concerns about bent valves.

The swap is in and it's running like a champ. AC works, cruise works, etc... I still need to do the Driver's side Axle + Ball, it's going to need struts soon, and I need to tear the dash apart to replace some burnt out bulbs.... But she runs good.

The original engine made it 290k why not just rebuild it or replace it with a rebuilt?

Personally for bump steering issues I would start with ball joints and possibly struts. But look up how to properly inspect and test them before spending money on them.