LPGsuperchargedBrumby

yeah the snow button does exactly what you describe.....it also locks the center clutch. If it was a VDC would it engage with a thump?.....my understanding is that a VDC center has viscus drive, kinda like the old viscus cooling fan drive.....and they don't engage with a thump....at least i have never seen one do it.

I have recently got a 2000 Forester 2.5 Auto trans model that is not engaging the rear wheels properly....it will spin the front wheels without the rears driving and then the rears will engage with a thump but only drive for a second or so before unlocking and the fronts spin again....it does this in any gear you put it in even 1 and 2 or D with or without the snow switch engaged. I live at the top of a steep street that is permanently shaded and has a moss/algae growing on it and when it's wet i can't get up to my house unless i turn around and back up the hill. I figure that it is the solenoid that controls the clutch pack on the rear driveline that is the problem....there is doesn't appear to be any torque bind when turning hard. The transmission code is TZ1A3ZK2AA and i can't find anything is the same locally.....are the solenoids all the same for all different models of transmission....and if they are, are all the tailshaft housings the same....as looking at pictures on the net of how to replace the solenoid it would seem to be as easy to just swap the entire tail housing if they interchange. Is there any Decoding Chart for 4EAT trans so i could identify any other trans that will interchange with it? Cheers Callum

I know of one person here that made a mold of the EJ20 'label' casting and cast a new one(out of what i have no idea)..... he then ground off the EJ25 'label' and glued the new EJ20 casting on and used RTV silicone to fill and smooth off any trace of the join line......he then painted the whole block with aluminum silver spray paint. While you have things apart to play mix an match......EJ20 heads on a EJ25 block get you a high compression ratio.......

i cut and sleeved the axles.......4140 sleeve with a 1/4" wall and a 10 thou crush fit.....sleeve had slots machined in them to weld thru to shaft....no weld around the ends of the sleeve. i ran like that for about a year before i pulled finger and machined up some axles out of 4340, i didn't get them hardened.....still running them 5 years later

I didn't know they made a 5 speed 4wd box to fit the EA81.....does the 5 speed box have the long taper down to the rear output like the 4 speed that you already have?......years ago i got a gearbox that i was told was a 5 speed to fit a EA81 to fit in my brumby, i was a little suspious as it looked exactly the same as the box that was original to my ute.....fitted it and nope, it was a 4 speed and had the 3.9 diff to add insult to injury. 5spd hi/lo boxes out of EA82 cars are alot shorter than the 4spd hi/lo fitted to the brumby i know they made 5spd 2wd boxes to fit an EA81....easy to identify cos they are missing the rear output

+1

i have had a bit to do with hovercraft.....with a turbo to stop water getting into the intake just take the intake pipe back to just in front of the prop, about 4 inches gap works......with the pipe pointed along the airflow into the prop any water flying past has to make a 180 deg turn to get sucked into the intake.....the speed at which the water is being sucked into the prop means it can't turn fast enough to get into the intake.....and the turbo will compensate for the lower pre-turbo air pressure caused by the prop "vacuum". this doesn't work with a NA intake as the low air pressure in front of the prop niks off with a fair bit of your horsepower

Done some rust repairs around the windscreen recently......need to do it properly fairly soonish......if it gets much worse i'm going to hit a big bump and end up wearing the windscreen

i used half inch aluminium for my adaptor plate.....don't remember it weighing very much.....there isn't actually alot of material in a finished plate

I looked at doing the same swap you are talking about on my brumby.....for about as long as it took to see that all the things you have noticed mean it won't work.....i ended up (importing and) swapping a set of XT6 5 stud hubs all round. one thing i did line up to do was swapping the brake vacuum booster (but not the master cylinder) for a larger one off a legacy....this gives your right leg the equivalent power of a 400 pound gorilla when you tramp on the anchors....only reason i didn't swap boosters is because i scored a full XT6 hub set off a board member here

have a talk to the areas that are contacting with some fine sandpaper...... i have had to do this on the last 2 dizzy caps/rotors that i have put on the EJ.....i guess the chinese rotors and caps that are all that is available nowadays don't have the quality control that the real deal jappo stuff had

driveshaft length is different....4spd D/R box is longer than the 5spd box......you may have to play with the gearbox mounts....i ran a 5spd FT4WD D/R on ea81 4spd D/R mounts but i seem to remember it was it a fight to get things to fit/line up

I took the 6 out for a test lap....and was somewhat disappointed with it.....250 horses should feel like 250 horses, my ute feels like it has more "get up and go"..........do they all do that thing where it takes them half a second to get their sh!t together when you boot it at about 30 mph?....like it has to decide which gear its going to change to then it will let you accelerate....didn't feel right anyway so i passed on buying it. got a used import '05 2 liter L.L Bean forester with 54k kilometers (about 32k miles) instead.....pay'd way too much but its in showroom condition fresh off the boat from japan with full service logs.....and she decided that it was hers come hell or high water.... KiwiGL that would be me....lol only legal 5 stud brumby i know of here.....The 5 studs get alot of attention from people that know what they are looking at.....have had people tail me halfway across town just to get a close up look.

what MPG does the H6 engine in a wagon get?....i'm looking at a low mile '04 L.L Bean outback wagon to replace my GF's 2.0 autotrans legacy sedan that she crashed (mostly my fault, forgot she had zero experiance on gravel). what i want to know is what sort of mpg do they generally do (in town especially) and are there any known problems like the dreaded HG's on 2.5's? i was surfing one australian forum and they said that the 3.0 was well known for doing the bottom ends from being run on low octane fuel and detonating......i don't know how much notice to take of that as some of the other things that were said in that forum stuck me as a bit like blow hards barfing up "like.... everyone knows they do that" Cheers for any info

when i made my adaptor plate i drilled out the threads on the engine so i could use a M10 (if i remember right) threaded into the plate...i didn't like the idea of smaller bolts theaded into the aluminium plate....in a steel plate i think it would not be a problem if you used grade 10.9 or 12 bolts

you will need a filler inlet (Acme 1 3/4" from memory seeing as your in the states) the hose from filler to tank, the tank and mounts/brackets, hose or tube from tank to engine bay, a lock-off valve(either vac or electric), a regulator/vapouriser, hoses to hook regulator to heater hoses, line from regulator to mixer/carb and finally a carburetor/mixer....plus assorted fittings to connect hoses to tank, regulator etc

hmmm i have a old bent driveshaft too.....i'll cut the end off it after work tomorrow and 'put on the shelf just in case'

i have mine hooked straight to one of the vac ports on the intake runners with no vacuum accumulator.....it works fine except that i can't change heater while i'm at full throttle....and i normally don't fiddle with the heater when i'm at full throttle anyway so i'm sorted

you probably just knocked a vac line off the fast idle actuator on the carb.....i did that once on the 2 bbl carb on my brumby

got it all back together and running....legacy clutch disc installed and new throwout bearing and pilot bearing....using the old pressure plate as that was undamaged. note to anyone replacing the clutch on an EJ with an RX FT4WD DR box....pull the motor NOT the g/box, it would be alot less grief...it took about 4 attempts to get the gearbox spline to mate into the clutch spline....all while under the vehicle on my back laying in the gearbox oil that poured out when i removed the rear driveshaft.....lol i'm going to stink of spirax for weeks. if i have to do it again i will be pulling the motor for sure

right.....a legacy plate i will go a-hunting

the peddle didn't go to the floor like a broken cable or clutch fork would allow i found the problem....one of the four damping spring's on the clutch plate had come out when the bent lip of steel that retains it broke off....the damping spring had come out into the diaphragm spring and that blocked the pressure plate from retracting on one side. the other springs on the clutch plate are also on the point of coming free as the lips that retain them are quite badly chewed up....not quite sure what has caused this.....one thing i can think of is a small misalignment between the engine and the gearbox that is making the clutch damping springs work all the time the engine is running....the other thing i thought of is that i am running a EA82T clutch setup behind a EJ22 and the extra torque might have something to do with it

yeah actually something like that is pretty high on my list of suspicions

well the clutch fork is ok....one of the spring clips that holds the throw out bearing to the clutch fork is broken but i can't see how that would stop the clutch from working...didn't get time to pull the pressure plate and clutch plate off the flywheel but a quick look doesn't show anything obvious from the outside....the saga will continue tomorrow night if i finish work early enough to get some work done on it

I took the dog out to the beach for a run earlier today, its about a 15 mile trip out there and as i downshifted to swing into the carpark my ute crunched into second (never done that before) about the time i i found out that the clutch wasn't declutching....peddle on the floor and still driving as though i wasn't touching the peddle. clutch cable isn't broken and the peddle feels weird almost like the clutch diaphragm spring has inverted got to pull it apart tomorrow night after work....i'll just have to bomb around in my work truck until i can get it sorted