LPGsuperchargedBrumby

i machined up new shorter axle shafts out of 4140 to allow me to use XT6 5 lug fronts....thats the 'correct approach' engineering wise if you can't get factory axles that fit....altho i'm kinda ruining the correctness of that by running these shafts un-tempered:lol:

only way to do it is to pull the rear suspension arms off and turn them one spline...A.K.A clocking the rear suspension

There are two types of EJ dizzy...the type i use is a 'real' dizzy...springs,flyweights vac advance etc.... there is another type used on the SPFI EJ18 that is an optical type job....it looks like a dizzy cap mounted directly onto the rear of the right hand head

i can get a dizzy no problem....what are you going to use as a intake manifold? a standard EFI intake has no coolant galleries to heat the intake to vapourize the fuel coming from any carb that you use....which means its going run like a sack (talking from experience) as soon as the air temperature changes from what it was when you tuned it...like the next morning. shipping a dizzy isn't too costly....shipping a manifold is

easy..i live in new zealand....we got alot of JDM DL 1.8 legacys that are carb and dizzy from factory fitting propane is literally fitting a complete second fuel system...not hard to do right if you keep in mind that a leak in the finished system would come in the category "Very Uncool" PM me if you want the high, the low and the 'i shouldn't have done that' points of fitting an LPG conversion

its not EFI...its got a dizzy off an early JDM carby EJ18 and my new CV mixer fitted in front of the throttle body

i spent the day in the workshop today...i re-kitted my LPG regulator(which really needed some love) and replaced my EJ carbureted intake manifold with an injected manifold so i could fit my new Constant Velocity LPG mixer. some pretty pic's its running ok at the moment altho a bit lean...lol lean is ok on LPG now i just need install a wideband O2 setup so i can tune it to perfection

..............Damn Seagulls

Yeah, I realize what I am proposing is a lot more work and welding, but I guess I like the idea of a more modern front end. It seems like it would drive better and be/feel more solid, especially at highway speeds. I also like the idea of having the axle and hub/brake assembly matched to the engine output. I plan to keep the hatch for a long time, and one of my considerations is also availability of replacement parts in the future. i have a XT6 5-lug converted EA81 running after market shocks(TEIN's) on the front....if you want something that feels solid at road speed thats it

Clarks Motors in Invercargill don't operate as a dealer anymore as far as i know....they where the subaru dealer down there when subaru first came on the market in NZ. they where the volkswagon dealer(nz's largest for about 20 yrs)....they sold them from about 48'-49' onwards until the late 80's early 90's. they sold subaru from 70' on although the never really tried to push suby vehicle's until the 4x4 cars and utes came out in the late 70's.... and they really didn't have try push them once word got round the farmers and professional meat hunters about how good they where.

i've seen it done in a fair few (non soob) veihcle's so i don't see why it wouldn't work

you could try welding it all up then welding (load spreading) plates over the problem areas to stengthen them...the rears look pretty straight forward....the front one will take a bit of creative hammer work to shape it to come over the bulge in the original plate. i'd use 1/8" plate or something similar to try spread the load over a greater area. having said that...i'm impressed, i have seen subaru's take a hell of a beating offroad and have never seen cracks like that without the veihcle being pretty much "written off" by whatever event/jump/fairly serious cliff caused the damage

the ea81 is a nice simple motor to rebuild but does have some quirks compared to a inline or vee motor....pretty much all the quirks are due to the boxer layout. if you do get one to rebuild get a subaru factory manual or failing that a Haynes manual (avoid a chiltons manual like the plague as they are full of mistakes/wrong information). as for cost and time that all depends on whats exactly gone wrong and how good you are at playing mechanic

the higher you go the thinner the air is....the thinner the air is the less of it there is to compress in you cylinders which lowers your effective compression ratio meaning you can run lower octane fuel without risk of pinging...lower octane= more BTU's per gallon which(hopefully) partly offsets the loss in compression in the 70's mum and dad toured on a Moto Guzzi bike thru the himalaya's...as the altitude increased the octane of the fuel available decreased untill when they fueled up on the approach to the highest pass they rode across(18000ft) the fuel was marked as "60 octane benzine motor spirit"

thats what i was told prior to doing the swap....after boiling the battery i took the brumby into a very good local auto sparky...and he took one look at the alternator model and told me it wouldn't work without the an ECU to control it so i had to put my old one back in with the new motor

when i first swapped the EJ into my brumby i tried to use the EJ alternator.....it boiled my battery....the EJ alt requires a signal from the EJ ECU to tell it how much to charge....if it doesn't get that signal it charges at 16.6V:eek:....and your battery boils its head off:mad: i swapped the pully off the EJ alt onto the EA alt ( and had to shorten the spacer behind the pully to bring the engine and alternator pully into alignment) i've been keeping an eye out for a nissan 90 or 100 amp alt but no luck yet

well theres your problem...the ECU is running the motor in open loop mode...which results in overly rich fuel/air ratios = crap mpg one would have to wonder why the O2 sensor wire is cut in the first place.... if it has been cut deliberately and not broken by a rock or stick etc

every trans i have painted i have painted a flat metallic gold that i think looks good...it adds a little understated bling to the engine bay:) i get off a local boat builder that uses that type of paint (in different colours obviously lol) to paint the hulls of alloy boats he makes if they are spec'd to be painted. i don't know what exactly paint it is, only that is a etch type paint designed for use specifically on aluminium...i get it in half liter cans marked only with the colour and colour code

A jetboat in the town i used to live in (18 months ago) has a EG33 in it with a 'computer that i built from a kit' according to the guy who owned it, which would just about have to be a MS unit as i don't know of any other ECU's that can be kit built. i do remember that he said that he had alot of trouble getting it work with either the cam or crank angle sensor(don't remember which) lol i wasn't hugely interested in the computer side of it...i was more interested in the twin turbos and legacy air/water intercoolers he had hung on each side.... quad turbo:slobber: with river water intercooling i had dreams of that motor in my ute....but couldn't figger out how to tow a river behind me all the time

check the width of the EA82 cam belt covers against the width of the engine bay between the frame rails....i have a EJ in my Brumby(BRAT) and its a tight fit, and the EA82 engine is a bit wider that the EJ remember to get the rear driveshaft and center bearing....or be prepared to get a one piece driveshaft made up (which is what i did) if your going to run EA82 front hubs you will need to sort out the top hat on the top of the suspension strut...the brat uses a 2 bolt mount and the EA82 uses a 3 bolt strut cap also check your spring diameters on the front struts...EJ springs are too large in diameter to fit in the EA81 strut tower...you may get away with EA82 springs if they are the same diameter as the brat springs due to the spring size problem i'm running tein aftermarket adjustables because they have a much smaller spring diameter than any Subaru springs ea81 gearbox mounts can be altered to fit on the EA82 box but the extra weight at the back of the 5 spd box doesn't do their life expectancy much good Cheers Callum

my PCV hoses are all made of 5/8" radiator hose.... just make sure when you make the lines that you don't have any point that can act as a 'u-trap' that can fill up with oil then when you stand on the throttle... sudden mass smokage shouldn't harm anything...BUT will always happen at the worst possible moment:lol:....my'n happend when i had a police car on my rear bumper as i took off from an intersection...trying to remain inconspicuous FAIL!!!

well if you can find a US state that is shortened to NZ..... i guess i need to join the resistance and fight the Fascist Fundamentalist Komunist Kaptalist forces of evil amerika that must have sneakily invaded my little home islands while i wasn't looking LMAO sorry its been a long day having to deal with a batch of particularly neuron challenged american tourists off the cruise boat that was in port....

a clutch switch is like a brake light switch on the peddle....in the case of the cruise control it turns it off when you depress the clutch peddle. if you forget to turn the cruise control off and the switch wasn't on there and you had to use the clutch (in an emergency etc) the engine would rev to the moon...can you spell.....V...A...L...V...E...B...O...U...N...C...E? there should be a threaded hole on the peddle pivot mount that lines up with a tab that stick off the side of the clutch lever....thats where your clutch switch screws in....the same sort of switch activates your brake light...you will see it mounted the same way if you have a look

i put an Auto Command AP-60 cruise control on my brumby when i was living in Australia...it was pretty easy to install...just remember you need to order a clutch switch as well (my ute had a factory threaded mount to install the switch in) heres what i where i got it http://shop.importdriver.com.au/store/products/item307.inetstore its kind expensive but it worked a treat

the motor you want to get the dizzy off is a JDM carburated EJ18....the dizzy on a SPFI EJ18 is totally wrong because its a optical cam position sensor type set up the right type of dizzy is easy to figger out....it has a vacuum advance sticking off the side and it look like a 'real' dizzy, not a dizzy cap bolted to the back of the head lol