LPGsuperchargedBrumby

i have a factory subaru dizzy that was fitted originally to a 1.8 DL Legacy

yeah thats where the dizzy goes....i have one on my EJ22 swapped ute

the rumble in your trans would indicate a problem, its not normal thats for sure

i have feelers out to every subaru wrecker i know of to let me know about any legacy diesels they might get hold of....a diesel brumby would be the machine. altho from what i hear rewiring the ecu to the engine could be a bit of an issue due to some sort of anti-theft circuts in the ECU....still, only one way to find out lol

probably something to do with the coils resistance....i know the Delphi dual curve ignitions that used to be common here on dual fuel LPG/petrol conversions where quite sensitive to trying to drive a coil with a resistance that was different to what they where designed to operate with

it runs the larger disk size

i've driven a 83 gl coupe with a 2wd 5spd that turned rpms like you are talking about....did have to kick it down a gear on pretty much any hill worth calling a hill tho

having done the mechanical part (EJ22/EA 5SPD FT4WD DR/5 lug into a brumby/brat) of the swap your thinking about doing...there are alot of little things(fix's,tweaks etc) that don't get put down in the description's of what's involved in the swaps....blood sweat and swear words aside. if you don't know much about working on cars i'd be starting with some smaller or less technical stuff until your technical skills are at a point you are sure you can pull off the big stuff...just my 2 cents

i would think a 350 cfm holley on a EA82 would be somewhat over carbed....the weber 32/36 that alot of people fit is rated at about 160cfm if i remember right

with the slipping issue...is it adjusted right? if there is too much tension on the clutch cable the clutch will slip...and if there is any problems with either the throwout or center bearing the slipping will allow them to make noise

folks that don't like people working on their own A/C system are the also the same ones that think a car that is over 5 years old shouldn't be on the road cos "its old"....they also have no imagination and want to drive an EV when they can't get public transport to where they need to go the EJ22 A/C compressor will work with the EA A/C system.... the EJ compressor is larger than the EA compressor...but not enough to worry about. make sure you have no leaks and enough refrigerant and oil in the system and your good to go

the old EA motors don't throw rods unless A,they are reassembled incorrectly or B, someone drives it like a Muppet....or a lack of oil will do it too the mid late 90's ej20 turbos are starting to get a reputation for running big end bearings....and throwing rods....how ever i suspect both the bearing failures and rod failures are always caused by idiots doing two things to cause it.....the bearing failures i think are because by heavy lugging the engine to get "the cool suby sound" as they cruise up and down the main street etc...i've always found it odd to hear a sube on friday night cruising up the main streets sounding like the RPMs are just above idle yet the car is doing 20 or 30mph. the thrown rods a caused by over revving it pure and simple...every EJ rod failure i have seen has been a result of prolonged high RPMS

i'm not sure what has happened to cause your alignment problems. i have XT6 hubs on my brumby with the same setup you describe, EA81 control arms bored out to take the taper of the XT6 ball joint. that was about the only bit of my swap that went without a hitch. can you pull the control arm back to allow the radius arm to fit? if you can try to run 16 inch rims or bigger...i have 15 inch 250T factory rims and i had to put 6mm spacers behind the rims so the steering balljoints wouldn't contact the inner surface of the rim at full suspension drop what are you using for front suspension struts? i have TEIN adjustables from a legacy wagon fitter via a machined adaptor that allows me to use my EA81 top hats

if you want a consistent 30mpg out of a EJ22 you'd better bust out your best granny driving shoes...a better motor for that would be a EJ18....with an ej18 you should get low to mid 30's without trying too hard. plus if you swap the mpfi ej18 into your wagon the ej22 is pretty much a plug and play swap at a later date

+1 for what numbchux says i have a RX 5spd DR FT4WD behind a EJ22....it has a massive amount of slop/slap in the gears....whines in 1st and 3rd....and i have never had any worrys about it giving me a "fail!... you walk". if your pretty easy on things like you say(AKA don't drive like a muppet), don't hesitate to put a EA box behind your chosen noise maker

i think i still have my adaptor template around somewhere...you can borrow that if you want or you can easily make your own to take to an engineer...or Precision Profile can cut you one out if you give them an template lol i'm assuming the Otago in your heading is the Otago in NZ?

Type of Wrenching: Professional,Shadetree....and "it wasn't anything i did" What:if its used in coal or gold mining i've probably worked on it plus tug boats, dredges and other assorted floating POS....plus bikes (suzuki kawasaki yamaha ducati)and my subaru ute plus any other vehicle i've owned or get shanghaied into sorting out How long doing it: started fixing bikes at 13 first unassisted full engine rebuild at 14,started apprenticeship at 16 so professional for 13 years now Other skills:i'm a Fitter/Welder by trade so welding,machining,hydraulics/pnuematic's plus a heap of other stuff like that. was a professional meat hunter (deer) for a couple of years until the market price dropped(best work EVER!!!) i've run outa breath to blow my own bugle....merry christmas to every one

the hot coolant in the manifold also helps with the fuel vaporization and stops the intakes freezing up in cooler temps. i made a stainless intake manifold to suit a weber 32/36 a few years back for a EA81 aircraft engine....the owner of the aircraft wanted the water piped seperately. intake ice problems quickly showed up in test stand running....icing was solved by a radiator type intake heater before the carb....a mechanical thermovalve controlled the heating based on the manifold fuel air temps. short manifold paths are needed if your not heating the manifold

single pin temp switch will ground thru the switch itself....some sub's (like my brumby) have a single pin switch

check your high tension lead from the coil to the dizzy (if you haven't already)...i found that was the problem when i had the same problem you describe

don't worry about it....its no biggie just make sure you keep the bends you do to a nice open radius so you don't risk crimping/folding and blocking off your fluid flow

good luck dude... one of the best things you can do to help out friends is to be able to get things for them at wholesale/trade rate....doesn't cost you anything and your friends get things cheaper than normal hehe i know cos my father has an engineering/welding shop...i haven't paid full price for anything that can be bought at "trade rate" in about 15 years:banana:...lol its save me a fortune and helped improved dads discount by increasing his purchase volume

renob123 do you know the lift an duration of those delta cams your running?

thanks GD thats exactly what i wanted to hear....i figger'd that military surplus stuff is normally pretty good...as it should be if your relying on it when someone is shooting at ya as for the speed issue i've run the ratio numbers thru a gearing calculator and if i was running the stock trans out of a M35A2 (0.85OD) with my diff in high ratio i would be running about 2350rpm at 55mph....max speed on the 2600rpm governor would be around 68mph. as you say, not real fast but when your already home its not so much of a problem:grin: lol now i have another big dollar item to look forward to shelling out money on