wotdsm

Thanks for the input! I'll look into those adapters. I was under the impression that P1 EJ22E heads mated to P2 EJ251 bumps the compression ratio to about 11.5:1 increasing horsepower to around 165hp...

The only speed bump I forsee is the fact that my current setup is MAP as opposed to MAF. But it seems that EJ18 throttle bodies have a MAP sensor on them so we may be okay there. **EDIT** Scratch that, I guess I'm not seeing a MAP sensor on EJ18 throttle bodies. I could always tee a map sensor into an existing vacuum line if I end up going this route.

I really want to squeeze more power out of my 99 Forester and I want to do it cheap (go figure)... I was thinking of bolting a set of Phase 1 EJ22 heads on to my Phase 2 EJ251 I know P1 EJ22 heads will bolt up to my P2 EJ25 block. But then I'd have to get the P1 intake mani/sensors/accessories to play nice with the P2 ECU. If I splice the pigtails that differ between P1 sensors and the P2 wire harness, use my P2 cam and crank pulleys, and if I source an EJ18 throttle body (has an IACV) it should theoretically work, right? Has anyone ever put a P1 setup where a P2 engine once was? Looking for input on this setup. Thanks

I'd pull codes and check for spark next and then report back

That plug just above the TB should plug into the idle air control valve

I thought that's for daytime running lights. If you trace it to the end does it connect to a small silver box that says "HOT" on it? That's the DRL diode. I could be wrong but I thought that's what was at that location PS- I have a clock spring I'd let you have for a few dollarbucks.

It could be any number of things unfortunately... Pull codes. There could be one stored in the module that will point you in the right direction.

Curious if after a few days if the problem still has yet to replicate itself. OP?

I ran into this when I replaced my leaky oil pan with a Spectra pan. The o-rings they included with the pan leaked! I used a couple viton o-rings from a Harbor Freight set that includes several variations of sizes that sealed up my pan perfectly.

I second the gates recommendation. Haven't had a gates kit fail on me yet on 15 or so engines I've worked on.

Our coolant temp sensors can cause all sorts of weird issues when they fail... I agree with testing that. PS- if it does test bad, please for the love of God don't buy an aftermarket one. My friend has an 02 OBL with the EZ30 and he replaced his with THREE aftermarket ones that were all junk upon install. The auto parts store actually gave him a hard time about exchanging them... And actually by the third one they told him just to get a used one or new OEM one.

I would change it just for peace of mind. You're right, it's a 14 year old car... Imagine picking up a 14 year old rubberband and stretching it... You know that puppy will be as hard as a rock and will disintegrate in your hands. I know it's not exactly the same. But, it's the same theory. Old rubber deteriorates. Not only that but I assume the car sat for a while to have that low of miles, if a bearing sets in place for too long of time with tension applied to it, it can wear out. I will bet you that the tooth'd idler next to the water pump is starting to get loud.

This sounds stupid but go through every sensor that regulates driveability (crank and cam position, MAF/MAP, coil, coolant temp, O2, etc.) and make sure they're 100% plugged in securely and the locking tab that keeps them plugged in is intact and locked. I was chasing a random misfire (each cylinder would randomly misfire throwing a CEL and the car would buck and hesitate randomly) for a YEAR on my forester. I replaced and tested everything under the sun... Eventually I went to test the OHMs on my crank position sensor (the one sensor I did not test) and the pigtail came unplugged with my pinky. First thought was "no it couldn't be that simple..." Tested the sensor anyways and it was fine, plugged the pigtail in 100% securely and voila, the issue I spent a year losing sleep over was cured... Electronics can be tricky if they don't have a completely reliable signal and the pig tails aren't completely and securely connected and my symptoms mirrored yours, some days the car would run great, other days it misfire and buck under load.

Problem solved. Boy do I feel stupid... The crank position sensor wasn't plugged in all the way. Derp!

Getting super frustrated. Timing was NOT off as I expected it to be - all marks lined up perfectly... I put the belt back on the alt and went for a test drive. Everything was fine during cruising and part throttle. Then I went 75% throttle and it started bucking and hesitating again and eventually got really bad. I was able to get back home and it stalled in my garage and now it won't start. Throwing codes P0340 and P0336, when it cranks the tach wigs out and jumps all over the place. The cam position sensor is known good. I don't get it. I'm at a loss.

Yes, crank was the only one that was off... Yesterday I swapped a cam position sensor - didn't inspect timing yet - and I still get a nasty miss/hesitation above 4k so... that basically leads me to believe I jumped timing again. The tensioner must be faulty per all of our estimations. Broke down and got a timing kit rolling for Sunday delivery. Tonight after work I'll rip the timing cover off again only to confirm my suspicion. I tested two known good cam position sensors which were both at about 1900 ohms and mine tested at 2300 ohms, I figured I'd get lucky and just be able to swap the cam sensor. Of course we're getting hit with snow tonight, the one night I'd love to have my Forester!

Gates included a red spacer doo-hickey that you're supposed to place on the belt and then bolt the guide over top of. It seems that the red doo-hickey is too thick as my belt shouldn't have even skipped with it installed! But still I think the general consensus is correct, compressing the tensioner after install once is asking for problems down the road.

I also compressed the tensioner once when I swapped from the original engine to the 2.2 because I forgot to swap the cam and crank sprockets. So make that 4 times the tensioner has been compressed

When I first bought my car I installed a 2.2 in it because I had the engine already and the engine that came with my car had warped heads and blown head gaskets. When I swapped the engine I did the timing belt. Fast forward a year I came up with a 2.5 for cheap. I swapped my timing kit from the 2.2 on to the 2.5. Well it turned out too good to be true because the "new" (used) 2.5 had a knock. I found a known good running 2.5 that I eventually sourced (that is currently in my car) so I put the timing kit on that engine. So my tensioner has been compressed and removed a total of thrice as it sits now. And that's what I was thinking as well as far as ordering a complete new kit... While I'm in there and spending the money and time I'll replace all the pulleys too. Just wish Gates would have helped me out a little since I only got a few thousand miles out of the kit. Granted compressing the tensioner several times could be the reason the belt failed

No signs of rubbing at all. Yes I bought TCK304 which came with all new pulleys, a new belt, and a new tensioner. I will count teeth. I've never done that when doing belt installs. I usually just line all the marks up and ship it I guess I need to take that extra step when I replace T-belts

PS- Gates basically told me to go pound sand.

Well I reset timing and decided to take it for a spin. Started misfiring and bucking hardcore again! I also got a P0341 and I stumbled across a thread on NASIOC in which someone said their car threw that code when their timing belt jumped. I fear I jumped timing AGAIN!!! Hopefully it's just the cam sensor of which I have several spares.

Man I torqued checked each bolt about 3 times. That's a great idea about telling Gates, I never thought of that. I will email and report back what they say. I bought the kit off of Rock Auto

Yep. All those components were replaced at the time I did the timing belt

Used a c-clamp. Tried to stick with the three minute compression time frame the FSM specifies. Gave the c-clamp a turn, waited 30 seconds, gave it a turn, waited, repeated about 4-5 times. Is there a spec for the distance between the guide and the belt? I'd rather use a feeler gauge instead of the big red Gates spacer.