DSwanson1

I was thinking it was prob an electrical snafu. the genius who owned it before me did a hack job installing a push button ignition instead of replacing the ignition switch when the start circuit went out. Yeah the oil pressure starts off at around 45 psi until it warms up or until you drive it, then it drops at stay low at idle. I thought it might have something to do with the tps being almost completely shot

So I decided that it was time to sell my soobie. The property management co will not let me store non running rigs at my house and i dont have anywhere else to put her. I put her out there and had one guy who wanted to come check it out. He seemed real interested until he got back from the test drive. The oil pressure decided to dip way down to almost nothing and stayed down until after he got it back to my house then when he put it in park the oil pressure went up with the idle. I was thinking that it could be due to the oil leak in the passenger side valve cover, but am concerned that I may need to drop the price even more due to some other issue. I am really hoping I dont have a failing oil pump. Any ideas guys?

Funny thing just happened.tried to clear the codes and the ticking went away. First time I haven't heard ticking in weeks

Funny thing just happened.tried to clear the codes and the ticking went away. First time I haven't heard ticking in weeks

Yes it's an ea82t. So if they are automated would pulling out the lash adjusters and priming them help. I'm trying to get rid of the tick completely

The year is 1989. It could be an exhaust leak but not sure.Just had to get it smogged and it failed due to high hc but the tech said that could be a result of it during for the passed month. I think the ticking is the valve lash being off but if I'm gonna pull off the valve cover to make the adjustments I am gonna wait until I can afford the gasket and an oil change. The codes seem to be from the tps crankcase sensor and temp sensor. Looked up the tps online and about lost it for how much they cost. I can understand 300 bucks for a race quality sensor but not for a replacement

So it has been a while guys and I thought I would give a little update. Got the tranny serviced and guys at the shop said that my tranny was overfilled and that was what was causing the hard and late shifting. Wierd though because I always got a low reading from the dipstick and adding tranny fluid caused it to shift better. Anyway they did a service on it and it seems to be doing better. occasional slightly hard shift and the rare 4250 rpm 1st gear shift but a lot better than it was. I also did an oil change and even a flush just to see if it helped. Ran some seafoam through it prior to that and the engine sounded incredible once I got it buttoned up. No more ticking! ...until I started her the next day. Now I get intermittent ticking, still from the passenger side, and it goes away after the engine has warmed up. Wonder if it has anything to do with the mild oil leak coming from the passenger side valve cover. Bad gasket maybe? nother project to plan for the future. Also pulled the codes from it the other day and unless I am mistaken I have 11, 21, 31, and 42 codes. Still trying to figure that one out. Been noticing issue with starting almost ever day now. first time in the day it starts and immediately dies around 2 times before it will respond to the gas pedal. Then I keep it running for about 10 seconds and it will stay running. also at the end of the day I drive it home to pick up my boys from their Nana's and after I get them loaded up and go to start it I have to hold the ignition for about 7 or 8 seconds before it will catch. Also noticed some sputter and dip in the rpms at idle. Wondering if any of this has to do with the phantom vacuum line that I can seem to have anyone identify for me. My first soob is turning out to be quite the project

So I plugged the vacuum line with a screw and now the engine seems to run smoother. Still not sure what the line goes to. I looked up pictures of the EGR valve online but can't seem to find anything that looks like it under my hood.

The other end plugs into a three way joint which plugs into another three way joint and a few other items. I haven't had a chance to take some other pictures but I will as I can.

I still not too knowledgeable about cars. I do know what the general look of most solenoids are but I can seem to find some thing that looks like a solenoid that is broken. I am also not adept at reading the repair manuals yet so I am not even sure where to look for either of those solenoids. Any chance someone could post a pick of what they think should be connected to that vacuum line?

So this is what I found when I thought I might have a vacuum leak under the hood. This is the joint that the line goes to. This is what is sticking out of the hole. To me it looks like the plastic connector broke off for this line but I can't seem to find where it might have connected to. I tried to figure it out using my Chilton's but am a little confused by the charts. Any help would be appreciated guys. Thanks a bunch.

Ok. Sounds good guys. On a slightly different note: I want to eventually swap out the EA82T for an EJ22, possibly even a turbo variant or add a turbo later. I have heard that the EJ22 is the easiest swap you could do that would increase horsepower (I read that somewhere on here). Which EJ22 should I look for and what all do I need if I buy the engine? Also I am planning on swapping out the hubs and brakes from an XT6 and go with some 15 in rims. What all should I expect to grab out of the XT6 to do this and do you all think I will need to do a 2 in lift before I put the bigger tires and rims on it.

I have a question. I really liked the look of the 240sx rims that you posted early in this thread. do I need to use an adapter plate for those rims or will they fit the stock hubs. And also if I wanted to upgrade to 15" rims and some standard size tires will I need to lift the car at all or should I be good?

Does it need to be a GL-10 or could I go with any third gen DL, or GL, and what parts might i get from a leone

I do not have a big list as of yet but am looking for a general idea of what to look at in the junk yards. I know that I need a new bumper cover, front grill, and passenger side marker assembly. the previous owner bumped something as he was backing out of a parking spot. I will post a pic later. I also want to swap to a set of seats that have the fold down arm rest though I know that I will probably have to do some modification for that. When I swap to bigger rims I am expecting to need to change out some of the suspension and I will probably want to upgrade the brakes. Besides that I know that I need some of the molding for the body. Everything else is in pretty good shape though if the rust is too bad when I start cleaning it up I may have to replace parts like the fenders or rear hatch.