DSwanson1

I was thinking it was prob an electrical snafu. the genius who owned it before me did a hack job installing a push button ignition instead of replacing the ignition switch when the start circuit went out. Yeah the oil pressure starts off at around 45 psi until it warms up or until you drive it, then it drops at stay low at idle. I thought it might have something to do with the tps being almost completely shot

So I decided that it was time to sell my soobie. The property management co will not let me store non running rigs at my house and i dont have anywhere else to put her. I put her out there and had one guy who wanted to come check it out. He seemed real interested until he got back from the test drive. The oil pressure decided to dip way down to almost nothing and stayed down until after he got it back to my house then when he put it in park the oil pressure went up with the idle. I was thinking that it could be due to the oil leak in the passenger side valve cover, but am concerned that I may need to drop the price even more due to some other issue. I am really hoping I dont have a failing oil pump. Any ideas guys?

Funny thing just happened.tried to clear the codes and the ticking went away. First time I haven't heard ticking in weeks

Funny thing just happened.tried to clear the codes and the ticking went away. First time I haven't heard ticking in weeks

Yes it's an ea82t. So if they are automated would pulling out the lash adjusters and priming them help. I'm trying to get rid of the tick completely

The year is 1989. It could be an exhaust leak but not sure.Just had to get it smogged and it failed due to high hc but the tech said that could be a result of it during for the passed month. I think the ticking is the valve lash being off but if I'm gonna pull off the valve cover to make the adjustments I am gonna wait until I can afford the gasket and an oil change. The codes seem to be from the tps crankcase sensor and temp sensor. Looked up the tps online and about lost it for how much they cost. I can understand 300 bucks for a race quality sensor but not for a replacement

So it has been a while guys and I thought I would give a little update. Got the tranny serviced and guys at the shop said that my tranny was overfilled and that was what was causing the hard and late shifting. Wierd though because I always got a low reading from the dipstick and adding tranny fluid caused it to shift better. Anyway they did a service on it and it seems to be doing better. occasional slightly hard shift and the rare 4250 rpm 1st gear shift but a lot better than it was. I also did an oil change and even a flush just to see if it helped. Ran some seafoam through it prior to that and the engine sounded incredible once I got it buttoned up. No more ticking! ...until I started her the next day. Now I get intermittent ticking, still from the passenger side, and it goes away after the engine has warmed up. Wonder if it has anything to do with the mild oil leak coming from the passenger side valve cover. Bad gasket maybe? nother project to plan for the future. Also pulled the codes from it the other day and unless I am mistaken I have 11, 21, 31, and 42 codes. Still trying to figure that one out. Been noticing issue with starting almost ever day now. first time in the day it starts and immediately dies around 2 times before it will respond to the gas pedal. Then I keep it running for about 10 seconds and it will stay running. also at the end of the day I drive it home to pick up my boys from their Nana's and after I get them loaded up and go to start it I have to hold the ignition for about 7 or 8 seconds before it will catch. Also noticed some sputter and dip in the rpms at idle. Wondering if any of this has to do with the phantom vacuum line that I can seem to have anyone identify for me. My first soob is turning out to be quite the project

So I plugged the vacuum line with a screw and now the engine seems to run smoother. Still not sure what the line goes to. I looked up pictures of the EGR valve online but can't seem to find anything that looks like it under my hood.

The other end plugs into a three way joint which plugs into another three way joint and a few other items. I haven't had a chance to take some other pictures but I will as I can.

I still not too knowledgeable about cars. I do know what the general look of most solenoids are but I can seem to find some thing that looks like a solenoid that is broken. I am also not adept at reading the repair manuals yet so I am not even sure where to look for either of those solenoids. Any chance someone could post a pick of what they think should be connected to that vacuum line?

So this is what I found when I thought I might have a vacuum leak under the hood. This is the joint that the line goes to. This is what is sticking out of the hole. To me it looks like the plastic connector broke off for this line but I can't seem to find where it might have connected to. I tried to figure it out using my Chilton's but am a little confused by the charts. Any help would be appreciated guys. Thanks a bunch.

Ok. Sounds good guys. On a slightly different note: I want to eventually swap out the EA82T for an EJ22, possibly even a turbo variant or add a turbo later. I have heard that the EJ22 is the easiest swap you could do that would increase horsepower (I read that somewhere on here). Which EJ22 should I look for and what all do I need if I buy the engine? Also I am planning on swapping out the hubs and brakes from an XT6 and go with some 15 in rims. What all should I expect to grab out of the XT6 to do this and do you all think I will need to do a 2 in lift before I put the bigger tires and rims on it.

I have a question. I really liked the look of the 240sx rims that you posted early in this thread. do I need to use an adapter plate for those rims or will they fit the stock hubs. And also if I wanted to upgrade to 15" rims and some standard size tires will I need to lift the car at all or should I be good?

Does it need to be a GL-10 or could I go with any third gen DL, or GL, and what parts might i get from a leone

I do not have a big list as of yet but am looking for a general idea of what to look at in the junk yards. I know that I need a new bumper cover, front grill, and passenger side marker assembly. the previous owner bumped something as he was backing out of a parking spot. I will post a pic later. I also want to swap to a set of seats that have the fold down arm rest though I know that I will probably have to do some modification for that. When I swap to bigger rims I am expecting to need to change out some of the suspension and I will probably want to upgrade the brakes. Besides that I know that I need some of the molding for the body. Everything else is in pretty good shape though if the rust is too bad when I start cleaning it up I may have to replace parts like the fenders or rear hatch.

Thats the kit Im thinking of buying for my89 GL-10

I am looking for a list of cars that have parts that are mostly bolt on for a 89 GL-10. I have a number of decent pick-a-parts in the area and want to know what to look for. I have very limited modification and fabrication capabilities so I need some ideas that do not require much work to install in my car. I am looking for direct replacement parts as well as upgrades. Though it does have the EA82T engine I do not plan on doing an engine swap at this time. The engine only has 160,000 miles so that job will wait for a while.

how do I tell if mine has LSD?

I dont have a 4wd button but it says Full Time 4wd both on the dash and when I look up the VIN. I am not sure what a shock tower is but on the driver side under the hood there is a fuse that says FWD. It is a standalone fuse box with only the one 20 amp fuse in it. So does this mean that my car is running as a front wheel drive or rear wheel drive car until I need all four wheels? That would essentially be the automatic 4WD you see on some newer cars trucks and suv, wouldn't it? I may be over thinking this but I just noticed that on the drive to and from Oregon the light at the back of the indicator on the dash was on almost consistantly while here in town I have not seen it on very much.

Yeah its the gear indicator. There is one for each gear like in Subasaurus' pic but mine had P, R, N, D, 3, 2 and then I have to push a button below the shifter for first and that like is just to the right of the "2" light. I do not have the door open indicator but the red light that turns on sometimes looks like the one near the trunk in Subasaurus' pic. Not sure what it means though. Does anyone know what the FWD light means? I thought it meant Front Wheel Drive for most cars but mine is supposed to be Full Time 4WD so if that is the case my 4WD would not be working.

Here are some interior pics Here is the car icon on the dash. Sometimes a red light illuminates at the back of the car but lately it has been off. Maybe its a burnt out bulb. My climate control panel

Another thing that I forgot to mention. The cruise control only works at lower speeds. Anything higher than 40 and the cruise control slips and I slow down.

I will take some pictures of the insides of the car soon and post them. As for the AC, I am unsure if it works or not. the guy I bought it from said there was plenty of pressure in the lines and the compressor worked great before the belt broke. It is only running one belt right now, because when he went to try to put on a new one the idler tension pulley broke and he never replaced it. Oh and there are no speakers or head unit. My guess is that the previous owner had after market stuff in and pulled it before he sold it to me. Didn't ask. I will probably just get some stuff from a pawn shop.

I have a can of seafoam that I was gonna run through it here soon before I did an oil change. Hopefully that helps. Also have an update for everyone. Took it on a long road trip from here in Nampa Idaho to Madras Oregon using the 20/26. I think I went through 3 or 4 passes on the way and its around 350 miles each way. Had to put some Lucas Transmission treatment in it to keep the hard shifting down but besides that I only had one issue. On the way back I stopped at a rest area to use the bathroom. Came out to start her up and as soon as I tried starting there was a fairly loud "thunk" and I lost all power. No dash lights, no engine, nothing. Freak out a little thinking I was stranded until someone near by said that I might have blown a fuse-able link. Started messing with the battery cables and when I moved the positive one it tighten up a little and I was back in business. Seems like I got a bad cable or battery terminal. Gonna replace that and have them check my battery to see if I need a new one. One Question for you guys, is higher CCA and CA better for these cars? I know that with my Kia I used to have I couldn't go higher than 600 CCA without causing electrical issues, but my Safari could go up to a 950 without fail.

Yeah I noticed the junk yard markings. I am hoping that I can get the knock to go away. Im gonna pick up the oil pump gasket one of these days and do an oil change with some good 10W40 and see where I am at