92svxman

Total cost was $696, which covered the rebuild and needed moving parts, PnP, 2 coating on the turbines, center bearing housing, compressor wheel, turbine shaft and wheel. All that and new seals for up pipe, and exhaust, plus SS teflon line to the new banjo bolt ( which is little larger then stock, oem is .055 replaced with .060 ) and an fitting from the avcs pipe to the new line. I for one feel them a small increase in the banjo bolt should not overload the turbo with oil, i feel safer with a little more lub to the turbo then less because i don't care to do this again. It also comes with a 2 year warranty on the turbo from Six Star Speed, so to me it was a good deal.

Ok guys i got my turbo back today, and i for one think it came out great. Thanks to the guys at "Six Star Speed Subaru Performance Specialists", please check out the pictures of it, the ceramic coatings came out great and the PnP is smooth as glass and no more movement at the shaft. They also gave me new seals for the up pipe, and the exhaust, one more thing is a new flex oil line to the turbo.

The banjo size may be why many Subaru turbo go out before there time, i think that many of them are because of design work done by subaru which costs turbo user's a lot of money over the years. I have some picture sent to me by Six Star Speed, please have a look at what "oil starvation event(s) can do to your turbo's.

For anyone thats been reading this post, just got word from six star speed that the turbo failed because of oil starvation. It did a number on the core and will cost more to get it repaired. Its still cheaper then a new turbo.

Hey John i do understand that the oil is needed to cover all moving parts, used to work on airplanes and was the same. Getting too little oil to parts that are high R.P.S. is going to burn up the turbo, and its Subaru short coming in there design of the oil line and banjo bolt size, the rest of the banjo bolts have openings of .165 and the turbo's banjo bolt is only .055. How many turbo's have been burned out because of this, and we as the drivers have to spend big bucks to get them fixed when it should be Subaru covering the coats.

I came across some TSB one of which seams interesting to me about turbo banjo bolts. When I took off the banjo bolts i found one of the smaller hole ones, which means the turbo's don't/can't get all the oil needed and burns them out. I wonder if this is a repair the SOA should be doing on all turbo?

The oil pipe that goes over the turbo was holding it in place, 2 flair wrenches move it 45% and the turbo lifted right off. When i checked for movement it was easily 1/16" to 1/8" movement, which i for one think is a lot of movement. Have packed it up for shipping to 6 star speed for porting and polishing, which they say will give 10 to 20 HP (which would not be a bad thing). The red wrinkle coating on the compressor housing, and black ceramic coating on the turbine will keep temps down somewhat. Lastly a full remanufactoring of the core. Anyone know the parts numbers for the exhaust shank bolts and nuts that go with them. Would also like to replace the 14mm nuts that hold the turbo to the exhaust. Thanks again for all the help. By the way the wrench on wrench got the last banjo bolt off.

I'll give that a try before taken the up-pipe off, one way or the other it will come off. Thank for the advise.

Once again i need some help, there is one banjo bolt to the rear end of the head that i can't get to. My question is this do i have to remove the up pipe to get at it, or is there any other way. Have tryed short wrench but can't break it loose, long wrenches won't fit because the rail is in the way. Sockets won't clear the stud from the up-pipe. If removing the up-pipe is the only way, i'll do it just looking for the easies way.

One other thing i reached into the back of the turbo, to check the blades and there was a lot of movement. I will check the amount of play once i have it out. Thanks again for all the info, and help so far.

Ok Guys took off the exhaust down pipe, removed the bracket, and most of the hoses. There are 2 i am not sure of, the oil line that comes off the right side of the turbo and goes down to the rear of the head on the right side and is bolted there but goes under the turbo to the left side and has 2 bolts to that side and then goes to the reservoir. The other comes out the bottom of the turbo, but i can't see it at this point maybe after i loosen the first pipe. Any easy way to do this?

No i haven't done that yet, but will have it on my to do list for tomorrow. I will order the pcv valve and then pull it. After i have that out i'll pull the bolts to check the screens, if there blocked i'll order them too. Then i'll check for any play, with the intercooler out of the way it be a lot easier to pull the banjo bolts. At that point i'll have to choose to replace the core of the turbo, or have the whole thing re-manufactured. I am an old fart and always enjoyed having a few extra horse power, but can also work with a working turbo.

Pulled the intercooler off today, to have some room to get the PCV valve out and get to the in/out oil line's on the side of the turbo. I found that there is more oil being sent from the turbo into the intercooler then going into the throttle body. My next move is to pull the banjo bolts to see if the filters are blocked, but should i do the pcv valve now that i have some room to work in? With the help of all who have given time and intelligence in getting me this far, " All man are my superior, in that i can learn from them" Thank you one and all. Michael

Thanks that's an easy way around the damn things, and a lot cheaper then that tool. Thanks for the info.

No its not that type, its a French tool company http://www.caillau.fr/products.php?ln=en&mn=clic&sub=pose I have been trying to find this tool in the U.S. but do not know if the GM tool will work or not. Has anyone found a tool that works on this Clir clamp?