mkc1962

I agree on the new sensor. I did not heat the probes above the 190 range. At 190, the new one was at near zero ohms while the old one ( after being cleaned) hung in around 400. Oh I fully agree the quality of parts these days has gone to crap. Obviously even when obtained from the OE dealer, no doubt this temp sensor being such. I don't turn wrench for $ anymore just for myself. Reman starters and alternators these days are a crap shoot at best. I also put a brand new (not reman) alt on the baja as part of this service as the old one was at best putting out about 12.8 just prior to the one the road issue seen before this work. I had been hearing an occasional squealing, found to be a rear alt bearing that prompted me to meter check it. no doubt under load probably much less.. That in itself might have caused some of the pre-work gauge/ac coil issue, as I have seen low voltage supply cause similar on other vehicles. I'm now at 14.3 with the new one. For now taking it for some test drives, leaving the scan tool connected to make sure no overheat. If I see even the slightest repeat of gauge issue, will order another OE sensor, but bench test before install. Meanwhile this new one is going back for a refund. Thank you for your feedback.

GD, thanks for a reply, was not sure what temp the fan came on but new it was ECM controlled. its never gotten that hot so that part about the fan not being on makes sense. I did unplug the sensor, but pre crank and it would not crank and did set a code. Never thought to try it while it was running. with the new sensor, I did notice that when unplugged the gauge was at zero when cold, but when plugged in the gauge would never go below half. This pointed me at pulling that new sensor to compare it to the old meter wise. Both started at around 1700 ohms. When heated with a heat gun the old on (after I cleaned it with scrotbrite) would go to about 400 ohms. The new one would go to near zero ohms. But what found next is probably the cause. The 3 pins on the new sensor vs the old were not clocked the same. 1 pin goes to ground the other 2 vary based on temp. It appears the improper clocking had the wrong two pins going to the gauge For the moment I put the old cleaned up sensor in. I plan to send this new one back. A factory sensor should not have been such an issue. If the old one acts up again, Will try again to get another one, but now know what to test it for before putting it in.

I took my Baja out for a drive a month or two back and on the way home the Temp gauge went straight above the H almost immediately (yes I anally monitor my gauges frequently) . Pulled over and also noticed the cooling fan was not running. Also that the AC coil had disengaged. Let it sit for a while out of concern, running heater fan at full to assist, finally got it home. When I got it home I hooked up a scan tool and with IR scanner also in hand it was not running any hotter than around 190. Now a few months later finally got it into the shop as it was time for a timing belt/water pump and try and get everything little wrong with it back in perfect condition. Before the work started I started it up again and noticed the temp gauge almost immediately went straight to H, checking with OBD2 scan tool and Torque app at that moment in time it was only 102 deg, IR temp scanner at multiple locations about the same..By no means hot...I figured must be a temp sensor. I went forward with the work. All new pump,belt,tensioner etc, as well as new OE thermostat and OE temp sensor. Did notice the old temp sensor was a bit crusty looking when I pulled it out almost sort of like a dissimilar metal oxidation but never really seen a brass sensor look like that.. Even though I have the full 6k page FSM could not find a ohm value reading for the sensor so unsure if it was bad or not, all the same replaced it just due to age. All back together cranked right up, and once again almost immediately the gauge goes half then full long before the coolant system was even at 120 let alone full operating. Had the scan tool monitoring the live ecm temp and just let it run to get the air burped out of the system. At the same time constant checking with an IR temp gun, nothing ever got higher than 192. However, I figured at around 185-192 the main fan should have come on and it never did. Have tested fans and ALL relays all is ok there. Shut it down to start looking at electrical issues. From all I can see/read there is only "ONE" temp sensor on this vehicle, on the back side of the intake manifold right of and below the throttle body. No visible critter activity to justify any of that thinking. I keep almost every connector on it dielectric greased due to southern humidity. Have checked all the Grounds I can find. So I have a gauge going full scale almost immediately. And main cooling fan not coming on when I feel it should. However scan tool and IR testing showing it is not any hotter than it should be at normal idle condition. I am thinking some sort of common electrical issue, maybe tied to one of the ground circuits that may or may not be shared between the two. However, the FSM does not show the same GND circuits for these two. GND-03 for the cooling system, and GND-01 for the fans . FSM shows 10 GND circuits and many physical gnd ties, but I cant seem to find a page anywhere in the manual that shows the physical location of many other than the engine harness section. Has anyone out there ever seen a similar situation? Thanks for any feedback. Mike

Not only have I recently done my BAJA TB but have done countless over the past 30 years using aerosol based carb cleaner. Never an issue. Alcohol is not going to cut the carbon buildup that is commonly found in TB's. I personally use a very soft toothbrush, use a screwdriver handle or wooden dowl to hold the butterfly open, then using the carb cleaner and the brush gently do the job. I guess a piece of gauze could also be used. Ive owned several vehicles where we personally put well over 400k on them, and clean all my tb's about every 60k, never any issues, never any damage to tb or any sensors. You may want to also consider a bottle of STP fuel system cleaner in your next full tank of gas, many also mention Marvel Mystery or Seafoam.. Personally always good luck with the STP. The PVC valve may also have a bit of carbon buildup that might cause erratic running but in the case of that one would just replace. The sensor that is mounted into the Breather housing did not appear to have any sort of anything that could be cleaned on my Baja, probably some sort of IAT ( Intake air temp) Use nitrile or similar type gloves when using carb cleaner, that stuff is on many a carcinogen list.

I dont know if you have nitrogen or maybe even argon at your disposal. BUT when I have stubborn such ac systems I pressurize the system with either of the two. (have even used dried air on occasion, but air can contain moisture) I take the system to about 50-70 psi. Then I make up a squeeze bottle of soapy water and go to dousing all fittings, coils, etc....you WILL eventually see bubbles somewhere....about the only that is very hard to find is the front bearing seal fo the compressor, but usually on those if that is the case you will see oil residue behind the clutch. It is very rare to have leaks on the internal evaporator coil, but you might where the outside lines connect to the coil. Most cars now adays have even those external to the engine bay but your 97 might still be inside the air box.. Change all your orings, be sure to wipe a bit of regrigerant oil on each of them. then try the above. usually on the sniffers you have to be within about 1/2" of the actual leak unless its pouring out. Once you think you have it...put a good 40-60 minute vac on the system Shut the port to the vac pump and let the guages sit for a few hours. What you want to see is zero loss of vac on teh guages, If it wont hold vacuum it wont hold pressure.

tensioners have a bearing in them...remove, pop the seal, and see if its dry of grease or has any lateral play. If so replace it.

Anybody that has done DIY has probably at some point made this mistake. With any luck when you take the pump back off there will be an edge of the bolt that a chisel or a punch might be able to grab and you can slowly twist it back out...you may even can use a magnet and twist it counter clockwise to get it to back out. The bolts usually are not designed to bottom out in the hole. Once snapped off will usually rotate freely grabbing the remains for rotation is the challenge.

It was the rear main....I actually took this picture after i had already cleaned up all the oily residue that was all about the seal and its mating surface. But this was just a surprise find as I was pulling the flywheel to change out the pilot bearing. Nothing of any noticeable size was coming from this area.

well maybe not as many shots as some might like to see....but did take a few to document the work.

Thanks for the continued input and comments....yes I bought the 2005 I posted pics up two posts up. Spent this last weekend pulling the engine and doing a total reseal to deal with the head gaskets and other small fulid weepages. New Clutch kit, and all new rubber under the hood as well as full tuneup...she should be great to go for a very long time...so far really like it and not disappointed with my avg mpg which is sticking close to the 30 mark. The AC Compresor clutch went out yesterday, and it seems you cant find just clutches or clutch coils anymore, so a remanned compressor is now on its way. But at 11 years of age such is possible.

I just bought a 2005 baja. The stereo had no sound coming out of either right side channel (front or rear). I removed the stereo to see if any connectors may have come loose but there is only 1 large connector on the rear of the unit that supplies all wires out. Ive installed hundreds of stereos in my day and also never seen any set of multi connectors that go to various parts of the car after leaving the head unit with exception of maybe connectors inside the doors themselves. However in my case both the front and rear on the passenger side are out. As I wanted a better radio anyway I went ahead and got another unit to install. However, after install I am still having the same problem. Do these Subarus have any sort of under the carpet connectors that might explain the loss of sound I am seeing on a complete side of the car? Hoping someone can give me some insight so I dont have to strip down the entire interior possible looking for a connector that may or may not exist. Thanks for any input.

Well its done and over and back to running like new....Pulled the engine and did a full reseal. Luckily so the decision to pull. Ends out the clutch disk was just about on the rivets, the pilot bearing was rusted and about to seize, so it got a full clutch kit. When pulling the flywheel came to find out that the rear main seal was also leaking. Both heads gaskets, with FelPro MLS kit. New head bolts. Rear n front main seals. Cam seals as well as cam towers resealed. Previous owner had only done the timing belt, so I went ahead and did all the rest of what should have been done when the belt was done, all pulleys and waterpump. One of the old pulleys has a near dry bearing and would have soon started to squeal or fail. All new rubber hoses entire engine bay, thermostat. Adjusted the valves while it was easy to do so ( all 16 were quite loose). New intake and exhaust gaskets, injector seals,throttle body seal. A few options added while going deep, a fumoto drain valve to make oil changes quicker and easier, a k&n air filter as it was in need of one anyway, both new drive belts, and a set of irridium plugs. Looking at the old ones which barely had any center electrodes left I feel they were factory originals. took about 3 days to accomplish but was doing other things at the same time, and there is no rushing perfection...yes I took a few pictures, and will post them. As for having a lift.....there is only one regret...I wish I had bought it long ago. An absolute recommended thing to anyone that does DIY. It will pay for itself in time and body saved in a very short time. Not to include makes working on things much more enjoyable. Other than I hooked the fuel supply and return up backwards at first, and it did not want to crank. Once corrected it cranked right up and purrs like a kitten. Now to enjoy for many years to come.

All parts finally in hand. Starting tomorrow it comes out for a total reseal.

Have looked at a few. Drove a few hundred miles to buy a 2005 na. 140k miles, dark blue, extremely clean, runs great. But very well documented Maintensnce wise. Does have external weeping Head gaskets, but I already have the parts to do a total reseal. So far have driven it about 1500 miles, avg 28-29. Look fwd to making it mine and the way I want it to be. Thanks To this forum for all the input.

Na model, would assume EJ251 but have not looked to see what it is as I just picked it up this weekend. Yes considering pulling to do full reseal just weighing the options. Timing belt an associated parts was done recently.

I just aquired a 2005 Baja. Runs great and in overall great shape but has both heads that are weeping oil. Along with a few other things, would like to fix this and get it back to 100%. I have all the stuff to pull engines, but also have a lift which makes many things easier than most would have to deal with. Can the cylinder heads be removed from a 2005 baja without pulling the engine?

thanks for the continued input guys..... Yeah I came to find out that unit had a 2.0 transplant after a head gasket failure. and major neglect...I walked on from that one..and have looked at a few, Not in my possession yet, ( have to make time to go and get it) But have found a 2005, N/A, Manual, dark blue that I like, and made an offer on. Great maint records and great overall shape, 140k with timing belt job done. I still have my Chevy truck, and a ford expedition for those truck needs. This is to be my new work commuter.

Thanks for the answer its what I thought. Had a dealer telling me they had one with a 2.0.

What series of engine is it that the later Baja's have?...EJ20 or EJ25?

I have a close friend that has the 2005 Forrester 2.5 he says his is non adjustable. I only assume the na 2.5 baja is the same?

Thanks for the continued feedback folks....was out of town and not near a computer since friday. Ive never owned another subaru that is a turbo. But Ive owned several turbo'd vehicles. Our presnt subaru is a 2016 Outback. If I were buying something new and me being the only owner I might consider a turbo. But also this is to be my commuter. Though BAJA mpg sux by most standards, I do want it to be somewhat tolerable and turbos usually arent in that arena. I do all my own Pm as well as major maint rebuilds,etc......and yes also own a porsche 911, where getting good quality oil for solid tappet engines is nowhere local anymore. I as well am overly meticulous on all engines I own. (12 of them) Our recent sale of a 2003 camry was 420k miles, with an engine interior that looked like new at my last 60k valve inspection prior to sale.. So yes can appreaciate proper pm. The turbo is tempting, but my desires for its use dictate that its probably not the best choice. Thanks for the link subarunut, will check it out.

Good to hear on the valves, wasnt looking fwd to checking those very 60k as I do on all my other imports. If I get a baja, it will take the place of my daily commuter so I doubt for now there would be much modifications. As I do all my own work and have owned a few turbos, doubt I'd go with that model for various reasons, but understand why someone wanting to build a nice such truck might want it. Yeah I have done quite abit of reading aobut the HG issues but also see that not every unit has the problem. The few low mileage 05/06's I'm looking at all have great maint records, a few show that the HG's have been done. May have to spend a bit to get a nice one, but the plan is a nice one, great service history, and lowest possible miles. Like my present daily driver, I plan to keep it for some time and put a few hundered k on it. Now the brat on the other hand....once i get all the rust cut out and replaced, that I will probably build up a bit. Nice rides you got there....the baja, that is the same color I'd like to find and have found a few that fit my specs. Your Brat turned out real nice. Thanks for the input.

I'm thinking of buying a 05 or 06 Baja , we really like our new outback and always liked the baja. Anything good or bad that anyone cares to give me some feedback on? Engine issues ( this seems to be the years with the possible head gasket issues) Average MPG ( I read everything from 19 to 30) what are the major maintenance issues or requirements? do these year engines require valve adjusting? Thanks for any Input.

Always were hard to find for just about any vehicle that may have had one.....not sure if yours actually had one. BUT if you feel you need or want one, buy a roll of cork gasket amterial and make one. Ive done it many times and it lasts for years, Many an old timer would tell you, to heck with the gasket, spray a mist of wd40 inside the cap and that will help deter moisture. (moisture being the problem the gaskets were designed to deal with)

musta overlooked that....let me go look see if anything I might need.