mkc1962

hmmm...what are you doing with all the AC parts n pieces?

grrrrr.....weekend die test shows only presence of coolant to be right where its weeping. I think I'll give it a bit more run time to see if it will eventually stop due to the recent retorque, but does not look promising. I guess next good weekend off, will plan on pulling the heads again, new gaskets and maybe a tad of the gray stuff around those holes that flow coolant in that area. Not a fan of doing that though.

Probably will this weekend. Have been working over all week and no time for shop play.

Yes I have the UV die test kit. Have not used it on this engine yet. But this is a Clean fresh rebuild, All new seals, gaskets,hoses, etc. no leaks are immenating from above and wicking down and over, trust me that is the first thing I checked. This is weepage coming from this area on BOTH cyl heads. I had really hoped it was just an issue of both heads needing a retorque after a rebuild. But that was not the case. I retorqued both last week.Thoroughly Cleaned up any and all residue, then took it for another 50 mile drive, back up on the lift, and once again all 4 of those low points (both heads) had coolant dripping from them.

I thoroughly cleaned them upon return as well as a good flushing of the cooling passages on the block. I used the Fel pro spec'd gasket for the application. No holes that were in the block or head was not present on the gaskets.

Ive been working on cv booted vehicles for over 35 years. In the past 20 have started to notice a lack in quality in the rubber of replacment boots. Probably the biggest conitributor to this issue is these rubber boots sit on shelves for a verly long time. About 20 years back when replacing boots over and over on an old honda civic, I came up with the following idea which has proven to solve the problem for me ever since. Power steering fluid is designed by nature to prolong the life of rubber hoses. When I get new CV boots, I wipe the entire outside surface of the new boots liberaly with PS fluid, several coats. Let sit for a bit and wipe off the residual. Then install. Since that time I have not had another case of a torn or cracked boot due to normal usage.

I recently did a refresh of the engine on my 82 Brat. Part of this was to have the heads reworked and surfaced. After an initial break in of about 100 miles, a few days later put it up on the lift and noticed a coolant weepage from both heads in the same location (pic attached) . Ive done hundreds of heads in my day and never any sort of leekage. But, this is my first subaru engine. Is there maybe some sort of special oring or sealant needed at some spot within the head gasket? I did not notice any such during disassembly, and was not leaking in that area prior that I coudl tell. I Followed fsm guidlines but saw no such comments about sealing this area in any special way. Ive retorqued the heads, and no improvement. Used Felpro Head gaskets and OEM intake gaskets. No leakage from above dripping down and over. Has anyone seen similar before? and if so any possible feedback is appreciated.

I recently did a rebuilt on my 82 brat and came across similar. Also never coudl find that seal. from what I can tell MAYBE some leakage is possible between the crankshaft and where that flange is mated to it? who knows. I just cleaned my old one back up, applied a small amout of rtv to the back of it and back in. The flywheel slightly compresses all of this when its bolted down,. No leaks to date. As for headgasket sealant....for the most part desgined to be installed dry. But for 30 years I have always coated both my head gaskets as well as the mating surface with a light dusting of aerosol based copper coat. Ive never had a failure.

Ive tried 2 dealer sources so far with no luck other than the generic answers you mentioned. I Have no doubt If I were to remove them it is highly possible I can read an existing number on the seals and maybe eventually find them through some sort of cross reference. But I did not want to remove the ones that are in until I had new ones in hand. In the case of Rock Auto they clearly show, and I have in hand what does appear to be a cv shaft seal for something, but it is also quite clear they are no where near the proper size. I may have to resort to pulling axles and leaving it up on the lift until I can find something that works. If I find anything I will post here.

Yes I can go that route....but was hoping to find some info for seals that others have acquired for the application. I cant be the first person to ever have a CVshaft seal start leaking.

Anybody?

In doing my rebuild, (82 brat 4 spd) I'm wanting to replace all of the Transmission as well as rear Differential output shaft seals. Meaning the seals that the CV shafts lock in to. Ive ordered a few that fit the verbal description using Rockauto as the source, but what has arrived is no where near the proper seals. Has anyone out there recently ordered these seals I mention, and can make reference to any propr part #'s? Any info appreciated.

Thanks for the feedback. I was only looking under the BRAT heading and nothing for rear there, didint give any thought that the GL sections would be any differerent. I guess I need to check there more often. Thanks.

Can anyone tell me, do the boots listed for the front CV axles also fit the rear cv shafts? Ive got two torn boots on the outer rear shafts but cant find any listings in any parts source for the rear shafts OR the rear boots. Wondering if there is a compatibility between front and rear.

try looking for a heater valve for a 96 toyota corolla....very similar in design but easier found....I used one a few years back to bypass a $1300 mercedes benz control valve.

I have one I am about to rebuild myself. I'll see can i take you a picture, however that spring mounts close to the body of the carb and behind several linkages. will probably be hard to get a good shot.

http://jdmfsm.info/Auto/Japan/Subaru/--Old%20Models--/

Some times Yes, Rockauto's database is inaccurate. But if you will take the time to compare their part numbers to others sources, and make sure you order the right number for your application you can usually avoid improper stuff coming, but it does take effort. To me, many times the price you save by using them is worth the effort. Unfortunately for you and where you live I cant tell you how to handle your situation. However, I have yet to have them even once tell me to send something back, even a fairly high $ items. In fact they ALWAYS, when shipped the wrong item tell me to keep it. I probably buy several hundreds $ a month from them in my shop. I have probably no less than 100+ items from them in the past few years that occupy a shelf in my shop, all items that were sent incorrectly. (a complete set of 4 rotors for supposedly a Toyota camry) that heavy and pricey. Told to keep and they resent the proper item no charge to me. And usually 2nd day air. Ive actually called their customer service about the issue to say, surely you folks are loosing money by doing this, but they dont seem to care.

I buy alot of parts from Rock auto for all types of vehicles. As for break pads the only negative I could say is probably stay awy from the centec brand. Ive never had any come apart but have had many where the mounting shim that goes on the back of the pad will not grab the pad itself. looks like poor quality foundry work on the metal housing and not enough material there to grab to. Bendix, Raybestos Acdelco usually all top quality.

I shipped an engine block a few years back using Fastenal.....not cheap though.

I'll give it a looking over today after a few hours sleep. OH yeah, Ive dealt with incomplete stuff quite often. The truck appears quite stock and for the most part unmolested. The young man I got it from had just drive it to Alabama from new mexico. I think he had gotten it from original owner and says it was running fine until he moved to this region. Couldnt find anyone to work on it. I think the region thing HA vs LA was just coincidental. Usually they still run regarldess of altitude just poorly. This one your lucky if it starts at all, and if it does will idle fine but stumbles when given power....Carb looks all original and untouched, but you never know its 33 years old.

IH, thanks for the continued feedback. I'll know more exacts when I actually start working on the thing. Right now I have 2 cars in front of this one (paying customers) This brat is my personal toy. I have all the original papers, this Brat was bought and spent most of its time in the Denver and Golden Colorado areas, probably why the HA might have been on it. Based on a FSM that I have, it clearly shows that feedback carbs and simple ECM's were on some 82's. I havent looked for an 02 sensor yet, but if its got one, that clearly shows that signal is used to manipulate running mixture or why would it have one? However, based on your pictures (thanks you by the way) it clearly appears that I have the 1bl Carter/weber. Its been about 15 years since Ive built one of those but do still have a few kits and misc part about for it. Your correct about more wires, I was referrring to wires that actually aid in runing the thing vs a choke wire used solely for starting. True if the solenoid control valves go out they are getting pretty hard to find, but Ive rewound a many of them its just very time consuming and tedious but cheap. Now that I look at it in more detail, I clearly see the FSM almost identical to MCS (mixture control solenoids) On higher end Hitachi carbs. Yes those are getting hard to obtain as well but not impossible. IF in fact the simple ecm is the issue, very correct probably time to scrap. I'd like to keep it stock if its possible and within reason, but I also have another carb and intake deal in place just in case. Nice to know that the newer Weber is also an option with the right intake.

..well...seeing as I how I build dozens of carbs annually.....its just not in my nature to leave them alone that and it wont stay running for long....if its coming off I'm gonna ultrasonic clean, bead blast and rebuild. Do it right or not at all. Thanks for the feedback guys... and will research those links. So far from what I am seeing based on the HA decals and the tubing, its got several factory vacuum mods. Without removal no idea of the internals. This carb that is on it definately does not have any sort of feedback circuit. the only electrical devices on it is a fuel cut valve and a idle up. As I jsut got the thing and havent done much to it, I assumed it to be a hitachi. However after just going out and looking it over real good was only able to find one set of cast marking, that being MADE IN USA. that tells me its more than likely Carter Weber, as to my knowledge none of the Hitachis back then were ever made in USA. Regardless which it may be, the HA modifications are what I'm interested in. I have the kits on hand to rebuild either of the makes.

Can any of the serious carb gurus out there provide some feedback on the difference between a Std Carburetor, and the one that was modified for HIgh altitude? Thinking it is no doubt something in the jetting, probably smaller main jets and if so what are the std jet sizes vs the HA sizes. If in fact the HA are just smaller, drilling to enlarge would not be a big obtacle. I recenty aquired an 82 Brat that very clearly lableled has the HA model carb on it. I'm not against maybe rebullding it to have as a spare, but with the HA modification need to undestand exactly what that is to make it compatible for my environment. Thanks for any feedback.

DFOYL, thanks for the pictures of the various items especially the bracket. If anyone has some shots of how that bracket actaully mounts that would also be nice. My brat is alredy equipped with the proper crank pulley and has all the electrical stuff in place from the factory.