oddcomp

Someone rang?

my guess being that unless abused or ran long along time with 0-low oil psi that the softer metal of the bearing took most of the abuse like it is supposed to and the crank "should be good" take a fingernail and drag it across the crank bearing surface if it catches/hangs up.. yeah it needs machined as far as machine work goes they can remove enough material to make it perfect again problem is .. how much material does that involve you can get over sized main bearings to account for that not the greatest idea in my opinion but. it works and if you can't afford much like me then its better than nothing just my breakfast vodka induced .000000000002 cents take the crank to a shop have them inspect it and give you a guesstimate on how much they have to remove and the price to do it then go find out how much oversized bearings will cost to fit that crank if they grind it down then try and find out the price for a good used stock /non ground down crank and bearings and compare it to the machined crank with oversized bearings and then go with what you can afford thats pretty much what i would do and in fact i bet i will be doing i soon in the near future unless i can dig up a runing turbo motor for my rx so i can drive it and take my time building a super poor mans motor that will alst longet than i bet i live woot!!!! lol

heh bov's are not just for riced cars they do actually serve a purpose atomospheric one's are just louder and make people next to you say WTF??? what kind of intercooler do you plan on running? as far as a twin turbo needding 2 of them well.. usually a twin setup is two smaller turbo's that spool quicker than one single large one but most of the time <not always> and are almost just as efficient in the upper boost ranges as far as placement goes if your using say like a wrx type of intercooler it already has a factory spot for a blow off valve if your either going without a intercooler <not a good idea> or with a aftermarket or junkyard unit that you have to make up connections for then pretty much anywhere just before the throttle body in the intake pipe is fine and you run the vacum line that attaches to it to either a unused port or you add a "T" splitter to some spot on the intake manifold maf based cars like what you "should" have usually need a recirc style of blow off where you can pipe the vented air back into the intake system between the maf sensor and the turbo inlet otherwise between shifts you will most likely encounter a backfire/poping noise in the exhaust sometimes you can get away with a vent to atmosphere type depending on who makes it and how much you can adjust the opening point me personally i run a hks ssqv bov but then again i am also not running the stock ecu or a maf sensor but they supposedly work well on maf based injection setups after you mess around with the adjustment screw on them

that place i went to do the sand drags at in the rx has lots of trails mud pits the sand drag track plenty of parking and camping spots a huge atv/motocross area we could prolly go play on plenty of room for a rallycross area anyone think i should go talk to the owners and see if they would be interested in it?

ahem cough cough DOH!!!cough dam.. allergies

bad ground? between battery/body/dash? once everything warms up and expands it complete's the circuit?

having seen some of this guys other threads... i still welcome him but question his motives but then again i am naturally paranoid

heh i had the idea to box in the ifs setup quite a while a go and then do a multilink suspension on teh ifs boxes front and rear those that know me can verify my idea hehe actualy i refined it so the ifs suspension was on and offroad and the multilink that connectected it to to the frame was pinned some how so it was solid and did not add body roll ect until you pulled out the lock pins so you could have a street and off road suby

my thinking is those are ore like mud collecters than skid plates... if i was the type who had time to go play off road i would locate me some nice 3/4 to 1/2" steel plate and make some real skid plates once.. that could hold the whole weight of the car just on the off chance i did hit something sure they would be heavy .. but hey at least you end up with a nice place to put a floor jack so you can raise the front end all at once hehe

hijack away lol and umm you will need to drill and tap the hole in the block for the knock sensor and also swap the distributor over i would bet if whats been said is how it works and it infact does control the timing directly instead of the ecu doing it on the older turbo's personaly if i was going to the trouble of boosting a non boosted motor i would covert over to at least some kind of injection system either stock or in my case not so stock

chu needs to read bettar senor! he said non turbizzle charged hehe silly junkie

oh man .. why is all the cool stuff so far away from me grr i think if the rx was running it would be fairly amusing to see just how well it would do on something like that

want to try and use it as a knock interface for my megasquirt and edis setup hehe hmm i thought i recalled seeing a wire in the diagram running to the ecu maybe its just a signal wire to tell the ecu its knocking and to trip a check engine light if it knocks for to long

might i suggest ditching the scoop and go with a cowl induction type of setup .. you know to keep the rain out of the air filter but still produce the result you are looking for?