oddcomp

as far as the altitude change goes everytime you go to start your car teh ms grabs a baselne atmospheric reading from the map sensor takes like all of .5 seconds if that even and then uses that baseline atmo reading to calculate teh fuel in regards to air density /air temp i forgot what all mr wet said but yeah i use the apc for boost control and knock sensing err i will when i get everything backtogether finally <turning wrenches again on the beastie started yesterday > and teh apc also has a knock indicator light output wich in turn can e fed into the ms box and if your using ms to run ignition like dis in my case but it can also run other electronic controlled distributors also that have electronic dwell and advance /retard oops i drifted anyways take the apc knock indicator tie it into teh ms knock input and play with the programming and it will also retard timing for example it gets knock signal so it pulls timming back for say 1 degree if after oh 1-2 seconds or so it does not get a knock signal again it puts the timming back now if it hears the signal again in that 1-2 second span it will pull out another degree btw i don't care if ya hijack

ahh well see having never pulled one out its allnews to me i don't need mine anymore and someone else does

well think geting respect in a wagon is hard.. try doing it in a turbo minivan cause till i get the turbo wagon back online thats what i gotta roll around in in fact had a little match this morning on the way home from work me turbo minivan them ferd escort gt hp to weight on that is far better than my heavy van 45mph rolling start stayed even and let him pull ahead a tiny bit until about 65-70 and just put it on the floor goodby gt .. hit 85 ish and let off ... and as usuall as i am slowing down to get back to the speedlimit he goes ripping past me like he never lost and keeps going for i am guessing about a mile past i was very tempted to catch him and pass him again but figured why bother btw is a 2 lane road both directions so yeah pretty much regardless what you drive or how fast it is people always seem to think that their "namebrand" fast looking car is always gonna win and almost will never admit or quit when they realize they where just a tad wrong and got whupped by something that cost less oh and this is pretty much stock 5-7 psi cone air filter and a hks ssqv b.o.v filter and bov are borrowed from the sleeping suby for now

anyone have a idea what size of thread the stock ea82t knocksensor is?? i need to pull mine and put a plug in its place

that whole change in fuel pump with the bllinkers thing since the ecu trips a relay to more or less directly power the fuel pump off the fuse box it pretty much gets all the +voltage it needs i would look into eitehr missing or crappy battery to body grounds and battery to engine grounds and then add one or two more grounds between the motor and body then get bored and check your ground point at the fuel pump it may or may not help but hey.. can't hurt

uh huh one you get the apc out unhook teh wiring harness from it crawl under the hood trace down the boost solenoid wiring the knock sensor wiring and follow them back thru the wire loom after seperating them up to the firewall if you tug on the grommet there and then cut it in half once its out you "should" be able to pull the whole apc harness out in one piece if not there is no shame in cutting the knock connector and solenoid wires as long as possible and then cutting the apc harness under the dash as long as possible and solder them back together thats how mine is

last i knew there where quite a few up in pdx at one of the u-pull-its i go to for parts and one of those things in the pic the black thing that is is a relay the other round doohicky is needed because it is the boost solenoid that does all the wastegate pressure management stuff or more correctly the apc controls it as it flutters open and closed to maintain the set level of boost 1 more edit out of 3 now lol where at in oregon are you tysn? ok now make it 4 edits last one was to get tysn's name right oops

http://web.inter.nl.net/users/turbo-team-europe/apc.htm http://simon.niftywerks.com/saab/?sub=apc http://web.archive.org/web/20010124...rtram/volvoapc/ http://forums.turbobricks.com/showt...ight=apc+wiring the last one pretty much tells you why you should not try and power the apc unit off the coil + side what i did was run a fused line direct to battery thru a relay to direct power the apc and then used the +side of the coil <when i had one> to trip the relay when the ignition came on thus giving full power to the apc with out loading down the coil wiring as you read some of the wiring diagrams pay attention to the part about the pressure sensor as it does matter wich wire goes to the smaller and larger terminals if its backwards it will have no idea what the boost level is .

actually if i recal correctly mine was a 88 9000 also the apc on most of the 9k series also if i recal correctly is under teh drivers seat.. i think i will look it up and double check but for the install you need teh apc black box <if you find a red one grab that its better but the black can be modified to red"standards" > you need the pressure sensor doohicky thats under the steering colum looks like a small metal can with a vacum fitting and 2 spade terminals one of them being smaller than the other you need the boost solenoid that control the air flow to the wastegate thats located on most that i have seen really close to the turbo on the 9k it should be right above the radiator has 3 vacum lines 2 go to the turbo one goes to the intake if you want the knock sensor boost control capability then you want to grab the knocksensor off the motor on the motor all series 900 9000<that i know of > its underneath the intake manifold kinda a bluish in color thing and yes .. i am special or is it mental... hmmm i will add a few links that might help in a bit

i dunno caleb wasn't that hard to install it in my wagon

tig is not really needed but its nice if your good at mig or even stick then you can do it i mean hell back before robotic welders and such and mig welding they actually used real people to weld cars together on the assembly lines and they used stick welders... unless i am mistaken

of course you had a better day than flavor flav.. remember he got his large clock butt hit by a car on a bike a while back

wel on most other cars a heated throttle body is to help with emmisions and help the car warm up faster since there is no fuel running in a mpfi injected type of throttle body then icing as far as i know of is not a problem

i think i remember reading that most electronic controlled trannies with solenoid packs use pusle width modulation for 2 reasons more precise control i mean hell 30-40 pulses a second versus eitehr a full open or full closed state.. is alot more controled and also during those fast open closed cycles the windings never see anything near full voltage or amps alot like fuel injection systems i think some in fact suby's use resistor packs as well <did not read the whole thread just skimmed it> for some of the solenoids

pop and gurgle is usually excess unburnt fuel being dumped into the exhaust and exploding there

looks sweet to a point.. kinda defeats the whole rx purpose tho fast offroading having said that should i ever finish my ext brat thing it will get that kinda treatment i think the lift and such

now if you want to go big high capacity filter consider this they make kits that slip a adapter plate on in place of the oil filter and in turn it has 2 ports for lines one in and one out.. duh.....lol and in the same kit is anotehr adapter that you can mount as far as your custom made oil lines will reach say a fender wall or something easy now you can use a huge truck type filter or depending on the kit .. 2 filters now since your doing plumbing and such that would be a good time to add a external oil cooler on the return line almost bought a jeep truck with a buick motor in it had the exact same setup heavy hydralic rated line running up to a remote oil filter and i kid you not the filter itself held about 2 quarts if not a tad more oh also those kits usually have at least one or 2 pressure tap ports for gauges one under the hood and one in the cab some have lare enough ports for even oil temp sending units... on a turbo that might not be a bad idea to install

well cores are easy i happen t have a extra set since i am dis'd i guess i would have a little diffrent results then everyone else

i so need to find xt6 parts so i can convert mine over

ok if i can afford em count me in

well on the fool the visual inspection part you can use the factory wiring harness and just wire in the ms to the wires under the dash for the stock ecu and then as far as anyone can tell its all stock if they pull teh dash plate and look at the ecu then it might give it away my ms box sits loosely under my front drivers seat but i don't have emission inspection to worry about either also as far as emmisions go.. you could tune it to mae passing the emmisions test super easy then after testing go back to the power/mileage tune

ok time to one of my typical run on sentance things here goes if you want pretty much plug and play go with a efi conversion from a exsisting junkyard efi suby motor of your make and type ect if you want.. to be able to actually tune it and make it all work with any other upgrades you might want <bigger injectors better ehaust toss of the maf sensor turbo upgrade supercharging you name it> then i might suggest getting your flavor of efi intake you want spfi or mpfi or better yet mpfi spider i snagged a whole spider intake injectors and all at a yard for under 50 bux now to stay stock ecu and stuff you need the stock wiring harness <including the whole ripping it out of the car pain in the rump roast experience> thats usualy a extra charge for wiring harnesses then you need to get the stock ecu ..and potentially the matching distributor more money lets not forget the efi fuel pump and relays for various things oh and stock suby efi is maf based so you need the maf sensor and related plumbing stuff or you could spend about 150 ish for a megasquirt box that is not maf based can run any injection setup you want to use or build then you need a gm air intake sensor you can use the stock suby water temp sensor and the ms box has the map sensor in it and a 02 sensor in the exhaust <stock suby ecu needs one anyways> alot smaller harness than stock suby to work with and you can then tune the car with a laptop or what ever you have or you can use a wideband o2 and get a almost self tuning injection system after the basics are adjusted of course its not the easy what with all the tuning and stuff but the end result is far superior take a look at www.msefi.com for lots more info if you want to go the do it yourself route just a idea

yay and stuff

nitrous chilled intercooler?? umm why does the thought of releasing a oxidizing agent under the hood where it can cause who knows what to light up bother me?

well mine is the only full on msnedis setup i know of and it worked great only problem i had was the sudden demise of the transmission i think i will have time next weekend to finally work on it what with all the drama here finally cooling down and this whole whole buying stuff going thru finally been spending most of my limeted free time keeping the turbo minivan running i did not realize it was in such not so good shape until i started driving it alot but the good part of the blown tranny is 5 speed swap spider intake swap intercooled hks ssqv b.o.v no actual failures of the ignition or injection system when i ran edis alone and stock fuel i put well over 500 miles plus a trip to wcss6 and back on it then logged about 300 or more miles on the full fuel and ignition i do however wish to belive the demise of the stock 230k autotragic was related to the gains from the full on fuel and ignition changeover since it happened almost right after i went and hooked up the fuel side