oddcomp

what this thread still exsists? wow i thot i mentioned msefi to ya at wcss6 noah as far as i know if you leave every thing else intact and just by pass the injector harness and run it <with the dropping resistor> to the ms box and add the extra sensors requierd for the ms box then the ignition should be fine

ooooff that was a hard knock at boeing .. glad i only supply the dry ice to help build the planes and such ... but given teh same .. situation i bet i would not be very happy .. hell now that i know ms is behind it... chances are.. even if i could afford it. prolly woul dnot fly on anything that ms powers's but then again until i .. end up knda flat and hating life on a somekind of landing sight i will prolly still fly til i can afford to and thankfully i can't afford it hehe

shesh northwet.. you sure being lazy.. i woulda figured you be al done and home by now . hmmpfff.. get to work and stop slacking off hehe

um yeah go with the ms and edis... cheaper to do that then replace amotor due to lean running killing the motor

or if your insane and creative like me you take your maf and then grind off the bolt on ears that go to the stock airbox and then slip the cone filter over it and tighten down the clamp thngy but then again i am insane and creative and also no longer restricted to the whole maf problem so it was not a big deal if i failed

might i add.. i too have yellow 8mm solid core accel plugwires..

dam look all thats happened while i was offline .. wow get ur but home i think we still have to talk or something over some pizza or sumthing ? otherwise keep it going as well as you can

i know for a fact that stock fuel management sucks large amount of rear end as far as going to a bigger turbo to get more hp might i suggest one of my next tricks to try <of course after i recover from the tranny problem no time and money ect> i will be going to a vnt turbo i guess its teh closest thing you could call a "smart turbo" it is a little bit bigger unit but does not suffer the increased lag problem of say a legacy unit as it has "vanes" in the turbine housing that close down and force more exhaust into the turbine at 0-low boost thus making it spool up faster at lower rpm's and as most people know if you have samll exhaust housing setup so your turbo spools faster then you have the restricted exhaust problem at your higher rpm but in this case with a vnt the vanes upen up and it then acts like a larger turbine so now you also have a turbo that works well it hi rpm with minimal back pressure in short it adapts to the motor to act like a itty bitty turbo with fast spool at low rpm/low boost then opens the vanes so less exhaust hits the turbine <at what ever set level> and it will work just like a larger turbine btw vnt's have no wastegates the vanes in the turbine controll boost psi

my tiny contribution http://www.free-codecs.com/download/Real_Alternative.htm for those with out realplayer this will give you real player use with out all the real player junk so you can listen

on this board.. or any car board i am on that lives in longview ,wa i need to make some thingy's to put on car windows i think

so might i offer a ponderance... is it possible that said fuel cut unit is wired inline with the injectors to disrupt the injectors ? when activated? just a thought

hey skip got any vnt's in that pile-o-turbo's?

anyone else get the feeling northwet poses as his own pimp in his spare time ? hmm the visual of him all pimped up with the fur coat and big hat just makes me laugh hehehe oops dam i almost forgot to add teh pimp cane.. after all he is not the youngest pimp in town hehe all kidding asie ..sorta hehe good luck sadly i have no money so i can't afford to add to your weight load

http://www.turbododge.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=59 just some talks about various injections and such

think ya can limp it down to longview,wa?

so what are the part numbers eitehr o.e.m or aftermarket <felpro ect> for the gaskets for the water crossover passage on a spider intake the thing that runs between the lower intake runners/injector mounts i got the intake gaskets already but not those water crossover things and i need a throttle body gasket also i would rather not make my own

well i did it.. so it is simple who wants to translate my insructions to legible reading? i reall have no idea if it would or would not work witht he stock one but i am fairly certain well sorta that they are "tuned " abit diffrent from maker to maker but its just a guess and then yeah you lose the ignition retarding as i don't think they would share well and besides teh saab unit just bolts onto a handy spot on like say a cylinder head or teh main block btw early night off so you know where to find me

i would actually think its eitehr the pickup module in the distributor <had a few cars that did that> or teh coil is getting weak and they get weaker when they heat up

yeah the 205 are heavy mofo's almost.. bullet proof i did break one .. so thats why i say almost one tiny problem tho... all teh chevy t cases well most tcases infact the front drive output is offset instead of centered like a datsun tcase.. so that might be a problem

more things i forgot stock saab apc setting will result in a max boost of 10-10.5 psi also the saab wastegate opens at 5 psi and can be adapted to put on the suby turbo reason you would want to do this is since the suby wastegate opens at 8 or something psi well.. when teh apc is activ and it reduces teh boost incase of detonation or something like that then you will only drop to what ever the stock suby wastegate will open so with it working at like 8 psi by itself.. thats not alot of change and just cause the saab wastegate opens at 5 psi does not mean that the wastegate will creep open from exhast pressure it has a rather large cana nd spring on it to prevent that blah blah blah yadda yadda

what saab has a apc boost controller?? gosh i never knew.. ahem cough cough wait.. is tha the black box i have in mine tat says says saab on it? btw it will pretty much be useless with out the transducer that is located under the dash of the car its a small silver canhas 2 spade terminal on it one is smaller than the other and sadly you cannot use teh suby knock sensor as far as i know the saab sensor is onthe back side of the motor on a 9000 turbo under the intake and on a 900 its same plae but withthe motor not sideways just look under the intake i assume you got the boost solenoid also right? small brownish thing 3 vacum lines 2 wire connector? on he 9000 its screwed to teh radiator support on teh 900 not sure but i imagine it will be near the turbo btw maserati had a simular setup for the bi-turbo motor they have also you do not nee the knock sensor for the unit to function you just lose the knock sensing boost reduction is all also i think its wire 11 .. i will have to look again but there is a terminal that if you do have the knock sensor you can wire that terminal to a small light or whatever that will light up if you get knocking or detonation oh also...the saab knock sensor is just a bolt on thing i have mine bolted onto one of the heads using a unused bolt hole

hmm i have a.d.d <not tha anyone could ell or anything....> i rode the short bus a few times myself now what else was i gonna say.. oh look a shiny object brb

no last i knew they did not hve any coe tha makes it function as a laternator based on teh return voltage from the crank sensor but now that you mention it i will talk to teh code writing guy and asee what he can do cool no alt = more free hp by god northwet your a genius hehehehehehehehehe

heh i mean sure its a mini van .. but witha few tweaks here and there people are pulling 300 hp out of thse 2.5l turbo dodge motors in the minivan's and otehr turbo dodges shame tehy never had a awd turbo option for any of the vans

the fan is usefull keep it cool at lower speeds and to recover from the heatsoak whne the motor sits for a bit ect ect