oddcomp

so.. can you define what time evening is?? i might be able to attend if thats ok

yes i was talking bout he front shaft sealt .. ther are actually 2 one on the tranny and one on the tourqe converter in order to see it you would have to pull the motor or the tranny out easy to tell with out pulling look under car for tranny fluid right behind the engine oilpan sine thats where it will usually run to but like eveything else i could be wrong thats jus what my problem was when my tranny went poof

front seal on transmission sucking air until pressure builds when i took my auto out of the car the front seal was hard as a rock mine did the same thing when it was cold until it puked all the fluid out granted this was a 87 gl-10 turbo but same tranny as far as i know

there is also a vacum pump on the same fender as the white canister.. at least on my 87 ea82t there is... just a thought

for bushing woe's i been kicking around the idea of having someone make up a set or a few sets out of uhmw <tough as hell self lubricating nylon type stuff> i belive someone made some suspension bushings with the stuff so shifter bushing duty would be easy also thought of sealed ball bearings

get a simple medical syringe a large one and tee in a vacumgauge/mechanical fuel pump gauge or a vac/boost gauge with it and hook i to the regulator and push/pull on the plunger to simulate vacum and boost conditions btw go to a vet place or feed store and get teh large ones used for giving mediacation oraly to cats doges horses ect fairly cheap

3 pm sunday i will be sleeping so i can work that night soo i guess count me out

so go find a bigger waste gate or one with with a adjustable arm on it the turbo on a saab 9000 has a threaded turnbuckle on it to preload the wastegate can so it can be adjusted to open at higher boost with less creep also has a bigger can i will be putting one on mine eventually <the whole can> just have to redrill the mounts on the can to bolt onto the suby stock turbo bad part is it opens at 5psi <large can more surface area on the diaphram so it has a larger heavier spring in it with a apc box or any other boost controller it will work fun up in he 10's 15"s and higher i am pretty sure you could also cut the wastegate arm on your stock one and thread both halves and add a turn buckle setup with 2 jam nuts to increase the loading point on the wastegate spring

if you wants lots of rpm's ditch the valves and springs and get a set of coates <sp?> rotary valve heads built look em up on google or something nifty stuff

if you got the money and want lots of spinning ditch the valves and springs and get a set of coates <sp?> rotary valve heads made up

i can do thursday friday<slow at work now> and sunday morning or any early morning really

how do you have teh ebc plumbed in? does it vent back into just after the maf? other than that i would just say with the new exhaust and stuf it moves to much air in and out for the ecu to manage it

hmm i have a nice autometer tach that pegs at 11or 12 k i think problem is its meant for a magneto system as it came from a blown mudbogger still trying to figure out how to make it work on conventional ignition never want to go as hi as 7500 myself but the whole wow 11k rpm tach factor would rule

if its a auto swap then you need the ecu and the tranny control box if its a manul engine/ecu swap then you need the manual ecu less wires to hack up out side of tha you need the engine harness up to the plugs and to make it easier grab as much of the harness afte the plugs o the fireall as you can.. trust me short hareness mods suck .. alt

couple lbs of dry ice drives out all the oxygen no oxygen then mst molds and bad smells die out lemme know i got all ya need

hey styles if your interested i can bring my ms box down and plug it in and see if your car runs then or at least better

i like what your doin.. but dam man... a few less stickers hehe

also if i had a daughter.. and she was of any age.. well .. you would more than likel find your rump roast on a large uncomfortable hook if you said that to me .....

having ridden with zap in his n/a imp i can verify he does know his stuff.. and i also agree with him may be only 27 .. i think but 98 percent of the time the age shows the ability and mentality there are the few exceptions that at even in training wheels they show immense skill but then again.. would bet those people also prolly don't street race on the normal public filled roads and choose to "show" on the more empty back and side roads where if somethign goes wrong.. its only 1 or 2 people that are affected on the other hand i also see nothing wrong with stop light to stop light up to the local speed limit of course the other person most of the time goes past teh local speed limit .. and i suspect it may be partially my fault for toying with someone who may not have figured it all out yet oh hey zap.. look cops.. lol

put some kinda eccentric weight on that dremel.. you might like using it better .. lol other than that cool project

now i of course never read the whole post thread but buick had a pretty mean little turbo carbed version of the buick grand national before they went efi infact i have the turbo and 4 barrel adapter piece from one that just takes up space in my garage also the corvair had a turbo 6 version with carbs <did someone mention that..> oh and maserati had a twin turbo setup that was blow thru with a weber in a big "hat" that me and baja saw at a junkyard infact i got one of the turbo pipes for my suby .. on the off chance i could make it work in short if its done right carbed turbo's work well but suffer alot more problems if its a draw tru setup then when the carb throttles close it has a tendancy to suck oil past the seals and into the intake and a few other small problems blow thru setups that enclose the carb in a big shoe box looking thing also have problems colappsing floats fuel pressure problems if the boost is higher than the fuel psi if its blow thru with out hte big box around teh carb then ther is the problem of fuel/air being blown out of the throttle shaft bore's its easy to fix anyways back to my beer so .. cheer's

lots of rock crawlers use flipped differentials with recut gears to make them not eat themself's from continuos reverse rotation the advantage of a flipped diff in a offroad setup up is the pinion is up higher so on large lifts the drive line angle is alot less severe also a little bit more ground clearance the main problems with flipped diff's is lubrication has to be reworked as well granted when i think flipped diff i also think the whole axle is upside down

http://www.jsm-net.demon.co.uk/msns-extra/index.html and how it all works http://www.bgsoflex.com/mjl/mjl_edis_summary.html and more on that as well http://www.dainst.com/info/edis/edis.html alot easier .. to read than if i said it my own way lol might help you make your own igniter doohicky

problem with ms doing hte whole ignition without the edis module as far asi know is you still need teh coil driver circuitry ..how else ya gonna light off the coils... so right there you need extra hardware to do that then there is the codeing up of how to read and use the signal from teh crank trigger and how that whole "missing" tooth is used as a referance point eliminating extra boxes is nice but.. when you look at the extra work to do it.. i vote just add whats already been established as a very durable unit especially since its ferd oh i forgot some of the ford v8's actually have the 36-1 patern cast into the back side of the flywheel and the sensor is jammed into the side of the bellhousing oh here is some talk on disty mounted triggering for edis http://www.msefi.com/viewtopic.php?t=3502 oh and if you wonder why if its disty mounted you need 72-2 or whatever it is its cause the disty turns slower than the crank so you need twice the signals in order for it to work correctly and the big ol nasty ford flywheel http://www.kolumbus.fi/ulpu.tuominen/JT_kuvat/flywheel.jpg it seems that it does not matter how big it is as long as you have all the teeth there spaced evenly since thats like a 12" flywheel or something last edit i hope darn i need to get back to sleep stupid brain always in overdrive grrrr

if i was you i would go for studs if you can afford it .. lot less chance of having to go back in and redo it plus you can safely get that high clamping you need with less fear of stripping the block and its so cool to say hey look oohh i got studs nya nya