oddcomp

raw japanese hampsters on coke? with a power trip and a bad attitude? now that would be a mean motor

he's also working on disty hole plugs.. cough cough ... hehe hey shadow ya might wanna talkt o me about what i am sposed to help you with lol so i know what i am sposed to be doing on this end hahahaha

detonation will kill anything if left uncorrected anywhere from breaking heads to hammering that prized crankshaft out of the oilpan. not really a exageration it has happened but i be the motor sounded like a rock crusher before it happened

ahh mr q as expected you said what i thought but could not say encore encore!!

sub frame bolted /welded to what there is of the stock suby frame use subframe as the mounting points for the 4 link front and rear with the center of the subframe being the mounting area for the suspension points for the 4 link longer 4 link arms the more flex you end up with and yes leaf sucks for aproach and departure angles

when you run lean it has a tendancy to detonate mostly cause less fuel in the mix the faster what little fuel ignites more fuel the intake charge is a bit cooler /denser/wetter if that how you want to think of it and the longer it overall takes to light off at least thats how i have always understood it and knowing for a fact that with everything else being the same just adding more/close to correct amount of fuel i was able to run the exact same psi of boost and hear no detonation for me its hard to explain perhaps if i was more able to express what i think in a better way it would mae sense but my mind is such a nightmare for me to untangle i dread what it would belike if i let it lose on the unsuspecting populace

i think i saw a set in a xt last time i was in "the yard" in fact bajaha sube nut .. dam he has a long name lol was with me i think

my thinking is he has very very bad if not missing motor/body grounds between the body motor and battery ... will cause the same problem

nice!! i will eventually get around to puttin in these nice heated saab9000 turbo leatehr seats i have then i b more pimp than you ! so nya nya! but until then you win for now!!

actually lots of rear travel can help the front more than you think when you sit down and think about how suspension works one end of the car twists and the suspenion reacts if one end of the car is more "giving than the other" then when the front moves the rest will more easily follow with less resistance so you in effect have a better chance of more than one or two tires on the ground if that makes sense .. it does to me but i seem to be having a hard time expressing my theory lol

wjm i hae to say it but your wrong knock sense is only ignition related on any car it hears knock it pull s back teh timing until it goes away tehn waits x amount of time and readvances unless it hears knok again btw adding more fuel or in the case of teh stock ecu getting the correct amount of fuel in reduces detonation alot .. i know same boost level same timing amount go from stock ecu to ms controlled injection no knock

someone mention msnedis and my name hmmm hmm ?? i guess i am teh closest thing to a expert on the setup for now i really need to get the rest of the stuff to get my wagon going again as it looks like people are gonna need maps and junk ..sigh oh and don't forget www.msefi.com anything i can't answer or make up a answer to they can also the new code base thats out for the current ms box i am in touch with the coder guy dood infact the current implementaion of boost control with the ms part of how it works is based on my idea's wooha and stuff or something if you guys come up with anything you want added tot eh code for your own needs let me know i am sure i can get us a special subaru only code made up tailored to suby's there is so much going on in that little box now that wow.. but wait there is more shortly there will be a processor upgrade to a faster better cpu for the original ms hardware it has even more room for programming neat stuff oh and i don't use teh easy to hook up relay board thing mines all hardwired err it was until i cut te harness to run the clutch cble thru the firewall now i gotta re wire it again oh well good time to put my spider on as soon as i can buy the gaskets

if wjm does not answer i will i went 10 psi stock suby injection to 10psi ms injection and wow ..... yes more fuel does help infact i was a tiny bit rich in the top end and it would bogg down a bit till ilifted as soon as i get mine going again i can give more infoe and even base fuel and ignition maps 10 psi althogh manged by saab 9000 apc turbo control's 10 psi boost stock mpfi versus 10 psi do it yerself or aftermarket injection setup's either way for power/money and tunability i would go do.it.yerself. injection that has a open code base that anyone can ad to or modify oops nap time

everthing mr gross said and mr wet said plus.. don't go building power on a 3at they hate it right now your weakest link i sthe 3 speed auto juice box if you never plan on getting more out of your motor then keep all teh fluids changed when they are supposed to be if not sooner oops forgot what else i was gonna type lol bedtime!!!

aside from my distributorless ignition system programable fuel injection the only other neat toy i have is the via mini=itx mother board thats sits ina small.. 7"x7"x7" welded steel cage 800 mhz 12gig laptop hard drive laptop cd rom 8" or so lcd i still have to wire up good for music .. lots and lots of music navigation when i get a gps card video games and movies .. "nvidia pci geforce 2 or 4 pci vid card i forget wich one now > other than that mine is almost stock or look like it is

it would not make it rich or lean as the acc is after the maf on stock suby's so either way the air is metered accordingly to the airflow demand so i would suspect eitehr a bad maf or a really bad leak after the maf

heh u can guess my response lol

actualy i would think its gettign too much fuel myself check the float setting in the carb and the fuel pump psi or as always .. hehe switch over to do it yerself injection

engine cold works fine you say .. sounds like it might be a partially faulty tps then maybe after all teh heat from the motor reaches parts and they expand even a tiny bit.. then well teh tps no longer functions right.. just a guess eitehr check the volts at teh terminls when its cold and running and then recheck when it hot and running and if its a alot of change.. then try a diffrent tps or check for crappy grounds on the engine block /heads/intake it might be a crappy ground losing contact when it warms up add a few extra grounds for fun it certainly won't hurt

not on a puter with speakers right now i will be afer a bit but when i had a disty i ran about 19 deg btdc at 10 psi no i/c and 0 to little ping oh and cheap gas

ok anyone correct me if i am wrong but from waht i know<very little about anything> but icing was only a problem on carbureted vehicles where moisture in the gas would build up ice on the throttle plates or was it the gas itself i forget injected cars at least mpfi don't have that problem i would suspect spfi setups might have it but not to the same degree as a carbed setup plus on a turbo the heat from the boost psi even after i/c cooling is still well above freezing unless you want to build a c02 fogger setup like me hehe then it might be close

might i point out in the second and at least 3rd pic a tree trunk can clearly be clearly seen so i will now point out the obvious your nothing but a darn shadetree mechanic!!!! otherwise cool stuff ya got there

well as far as electronics go.. you could go the do it yersel route and use a meagquirt for the fuel and ignition but you still have teh crossmembers and such to argue with

i will be the bad guy here my best off the wall guess is cracked heads between exhaust port and water jacket after all... 100 or so psi will pop a radiator cap and make stuff bubble best guess.. 10 psi = to much killed a head gasket maybe had a bit of undetected detonation and poof cracked head as far as the no starting.. umm smalll amount of water in the cylinders wetting down teh plugs and thus grounding them out so no spark? this is all totally off the wall-in-the-morning-after-work-on-2nd-22oz-high octane-beer so i may be just totally wrong oh and whats this you speak of rear e brake? this whole front e brake thing buggs me very much i mean after all if the hydralic system fails on most cars you could use the ebrake to slow it down if done right and locking up a back tire under ebrake in a emergency is easy to compensate for but.. locking up a front tire now that seems like a whole lot of bad news when your trying to do a controlled emergency stop type thing

well excuse me i can't be perfect all the time i posted after work this morning and. well you know my other posting condition i think lol besides being tired hehe i prolly miss read it oh well someone might find it useful