oddcomp

eh you all can guess what i will suggest lol ditch the disty go distributorless drop a mpfi or spfi intake on it and add a megasquirt stir gently and go have fun you could still ditch the disty and go distributorless and keep the carb if you wanted as far as true duels go most any motor that can run duels responds well but don't forget to add a crossover pipe between the pipes helps the low end power

tape off the factory sube charge wire and then runa nice heavy one right to the battery

if its teh automatic its the quick electric shift thats nice i have heard the vaum driven shift is slooowww i am thinking of using the air compressor for my suspension that is not used anymore and adding a small air ram thing so its quick . well quicker

bigger pipes more gets out of the motoor faster faster exhaust travel means faster spool

yeah gm alt conversion is easy and wire for wire in fact well unless you use a single wire alt then less wires and well if i can do it then i think anyone can the hard parts is bracketry

one to each head one to the main block one to the intake manifold and if you can a braided strap to the exhaust <o2 sensor > and then well.. your grounded!!

well if you don't have the tps hooked up then it will cause problems or even if its hooked up wrong the tps all work the same just differnt wiring conection but they both have teh tps part and the idle switch in the unit does it feel like it bogs down and then recovers a bit if you let off?

hmmm cut off air dam and get yourselff a load of fiberglass and build a new custom front setup or.. anyone thot of running 2 eclipse intercoolers right behind teh front grill in a ganged arrangement if you have the time and toys you could get some do it your self custom type cores and end tanks and someone i am sure.. <i have neither the time nor money just the idea on how it should go > to make a custom fitted gen 3 fmic

hmm seems to be missing a dis coil pack setup like i have hehe also you need to ditch the maf and half teh extra wires maybe when i can afford intake gaskets i can finally get mine running again btw looking good well except the head gaskets those.. don't look so good

hey garner.. uh make your bolt holes a bit bigger on the exhaust flanges.. good job but using what you did.. i would worry about heat expansion breaking things if you ever decide to redo it in the future maybe look into a small piece of ss exhasut bellows stuff so it will absorb the expansion then again nothing may happen but i would kep looking for broken bolts and such after a while to be sure that why i suggested makeing the flange holes bigger so it has room to move it it has to just one of my nifty off teh wall way out in left field thinking things

hmm it might be .. do you hear it at gear changes? oh wait do you have like a cone filter on ? if so .. then yea heh it will sound like a toilet almost on boost mine just makes a large sucking noise not as pronouced say if your driving a old chevy wih a 4 barrel carb but enough to know things are happening

ehhhhh wrong answer that sound you heard with out the airbox or if you had a open element filter on in the box's place was in fact backpressure if you have like say mine for instance if you run 10 psi close the throttle quickly <gear change ect> then thats 10 psi of air with no where to go on a stock setup that is so it will go back the way it came in thru the turbo slowing it down then back out the air filter a blow off valve gives it someplace to vent normally you will never hear the wastegate open i say normally as i do in fact have a tubo dodge caravan with a loud wastegate almost sounds like a sick cow moooooo ing

87 gl-10 turbo megasquirt and edis programmable fuel injection and distributorless ignition apc boost controller at 10 psi may change over to megasquirt controlled boost not sure yet cone filter no maf . yay eventually intercooled founf somene elses downpipe in a junkyard with bigger than stock pipes and hi flow universal cat on it will get changed out for 2.5 inch all the to the back exhaust btw.. i felt left out to...

me ppersonally i would check all the intake hoses for air leaks even a tiny leak will screw you up myself i don't have to worry about it

hmmm i think best while under the same but cheaper mistress as hodaka rider anyone who has read my posts should be able to tell that.. oh wait.. waht was the original thread topic??? ?? ooops sorry

well while not a "chef" people do tell me i am a good cook.. granted they suffer from my food poisoning when they say it ... but hey its a start

tick of death? wait wasn't there a cheesy movie about giant ticks killing people? i hope your not faced with that kinda tick...

lots of people have made special stainles steel boxes "removable so they can be cleaned of course" that have their own place on the motor for things like hotdogs and such

so you go rip out the ecu and put in a programmable one and not worry about it hehe

welll.. hell nice and tight wastegates.. makes for faster boost and more fun loose sloppy wastegates are no fun ..

ah dam well see your s.o.l i have one thats sorta useabkle as a emergency spare and the other well.. unless you consider a half inch of in and out lay on the shaft god.. then well no spare turbo's for you oh wait i do have a saab 9k turbo i gott a rebuild one of these days and i have the turbo off a buick grand national that was carbed that needs a reuild as welll

ok teh way that i know that these things work is when you start to get near the max boost psi the springs in the wastegates have is they start to "crack" open so you boost slows down a bit before it reaches max psi a mbc over comes that in ways but you still suffer from that before max psi wastegate cracking psi problem either way the system is stil partially open just before the max psi is achieved now going to electronic boost controll well thats diffrent as the electronics keep the waste gate closed totally until the set psi is reached then open it all at once and after wards usually pulse the duty solenoid on and off to keep the wastegate can at the max boost you want now since with electronic boost control keeping thewastegate closed up until the set psi the result is a car that has a faster boost responce <no sorta open wastegate> its more precise once it hits max psi and usually alot more responsive since the wastegate has no affet until the setpoint is reached on the other side the smaller waste gate cans have weak springs alot of the times so just the shear exhaust pressure can force the wastegate off its seat one of the reasons i wil be swapping my saab wastegate can onto the suby turbo its a bigger can bigger spring but ahh there is a catch its opening psi is 5lbs but thats parts of the good side since i runs a saab apc it measn until the apc hits the boost i want it will deny the wastegate signal to the can but on the otehr side if the apc picks up any problems it ca also drop the boost as far as 5psi anyways enough of my insane rambling

hey what a coincedence... i have a autometer tach that reads up to 11k hmmmm no really i do have one just can't use it

so what your saying is my reply is not good enoughf or you huh... you have to bump it and get more ??? shesh...

a good sleeper touch i have found out to have are ... dum da da dum kids seats in the back lol