oddcomp

wait the xt6 sway bar had to be shortened? so you cut and rewelded it? i always assumed those where heat treated or something and guessed the heat from rewelding one unless it was retreated would create weak spots or something <----curiously confused as usuall

wow .. this ford thunder chicken intercooler i am running unless the car sits still for a while and it heatsoaks or the out side air temp is hi i almost never see anything over 80-100 degree's and around 30-40 if i put some dry ice on it and let it sit for a few minutes and then go driving but then again thats also 7.7 psi according to my megasquirt .. yes i have mine setup to read boost/vac on the the dial type gauges still reads kpa in the tuning screens tho

where are my fuel maps bish?!?!?!? lol certainly worth the hassle of making it work huh pay attention and you should notice the turbo coming in a little to alot sooner especially if you add a a little extra fuel in the 90-100 kpa range you want a copy of my timing maps? to see if that helps ? they are pretty much tuned by ear and feel and engine temp but seem to work fine for me for now until i get rich and can play on a dyno maybe i can con some dyno place up in pdx in giving me a break for it being such a one off setup lol

yeah mine seems to have a traction issue in fwd from first to 3rd gear i actually got a accidental 4wd drift earlier

do a search on google or something for VNT i am currently trying to figure out how 2 use 2 smaller vnt units on my rx eventually woot almost 0 spool time

eh a atmosphere bov on a maf system usually causes problems depending on the type of bov something like a hks ssqv were it stays closed until you let off the gas and the vacum + boost push it open on maf systems that wil usually cause a minor if any hiccup/backfire in the exhaust now like the kind on my turbo dodge minivan that one hangs open at idle and cruise and closes down once 0 manifold vacum is reached and the boosting begins those "hang open" style really play hell with a maf based injection system since the maf is metering fuel for air that passes thru it and then just gets dumped out of the system except under boost causeing a over rich idle and cruise and on catless cars is usually acompanied by the "fireball out the exhaust effect" when shifting under boost just for fun pull the bov so the bov is closed down plug the vacum line and then try and drive it

yeah i know what it is hehe kinda cool to sit in the control room and watch the monitors show the almost liquid firestorm in those things i used to work for a company that did industrial leak repair so i got to see all sorts of places in paper mills and oil refinery's i'v even been inside those nice big steel drums with the tiny openings in them that they use to make the paper with.. talk about a wierd feeling being in those things while they are still pretty dam hot even after sitting for a day and a half staring at the steam nozzles pointed right at your chest while your sealing a leak inside of the drum hopeing that that tiny lock you put on the lockout board will keep you from being vaporized lol kinda wierd hunched over inside there and looking out and your shoulders don't fit through the hole unles you go thru it like you where diving into a pool

unplug your coolant temp sensor the one with 2 wires if your temp sensor is either bad or has a bad connection the ecu will think the car is dead cold and will add more fuel than needed to help it "warm up" i made a mistake like that with my megasquirt install .. shorted out the temp sensor wire to ground the megasquirt thought it was -40 degf and was just pretty much dumping fuel into it btw how far away is where you at from where i am at?

sorry i fell aslep when posting my reply and the laptop shutdown oops the way i did it was i took a relay jumped a wire off the + side of the coil to a relay <they usually have diagrams on them showing wich connections are for the relay magentic coil and wich connections are for the power contacts> put a ground to the other side of the magnetic coil connectors so when the ignition is turned on it should click over next i ran one wire of the o2 heating element to ground and the other to the relay power switch contacts and then the other terminal went to the battery i would suggest adding about a 5amp fuse inline from the battery to the relay some where like stated above it only pulls a few amps to heat up but unlike stated above often depending on location of the sensor at idle or even low speed driving it will cool down enough to the non working point happens in my turbo suby that why i went to a heated unit helped alot with the factory ecu before i ditched it oh and that would be a few amps your ignition would not get and the coil output could suffer from it and make things worse

sending pm to you so as not to clutter up someone elses thread but i can re pm or post openly for others

correct ! but then again thats the reason why you would want a 3 wire heated o2 since it has a internal heating element that keeps it at the minimum temp that is is designed to work at instead of letting the exhasut gasses heat the unit up so in factory 3 wire heated cars do indeed put in a 3 wire heated unit in non 3 wire heated cars <older> add a relay that is tripped off the coil + and supply power to the heating unit on the o2 and enjoy the benefits of a better running engine due to backyard mechanic engineering

oddly enough i run a heated o2 from a saab in my 85 subaru rx .. and it makes a lot of difference compared to a non heated unit you can get "universal" heated o2's a bit cheaper

if it has tires and brakes i would tow it with my rx.. but then again i live .. tad far away i suspect you could tow it with pretty much anything as long as you can steer it and stop it might be a cheaper alternative than a flat bed /tow dolly/tow truck

i vote cracked ea82t head intarwebnets talk

hey wjm i am running diesel sillicone radiator hose on my setup its like a dollar per inch tho or something like that and i am pretty sure it will hold 20+psi after all how much psi do you suppose a kenworth's cooling system develops ??

nice.

i know something that wjm isn't telling nya nya

went down today the sign in/inspection starts at about 7:30 am for those interested i hope i can find someone to video tape it

same unit as a saab 9000 one pretty much and i dementedly towed with the idea of top mounting it and it would have fit with the stock intake.. but with a spider hell no conversly i fiddled around with using the saab radiator and using the intercooler as a fmic setup but i would have had to do a bit of cutting and welding and rebracing to make it all fit plus the plumbin issue would have been fun... with almost no budget

so i went back out to the track to go do a few test runs now that i have my overkill pitch stopper bracket built i wanted to make sure i could at least do decent-ish before i went and played in front of people and from a 3k launch in low 4 and shifting about 4k-4500 by about 1/2 to 3/4 track in really soft dirt/sand mix i can hit 55 .. so i figure with that kinda result if during the drags i let it wind out a bit more i might not do half bad depending on who/what i am up against oh and this is on street tires .. those that have seen my wagon at wcss 6 and the rx at the tail end of wcss 7 can prolly attest to the fact that i am indeed running street tires so will i be the only suby out there? come on i need a cheering section lol

umm bob.. the spfi/carbonated hehe cars are higher cr than the turbo cars so dropping turbo on a stock spfi block would result in a high comp turbo motor and with out being able to re adjust the stock ecu to fuel it correctly you can look forward to melted pistons and such ..

especially if your intercooled the internal restriction of a intercooler will show a higher boost psi if the signal is taken from the compressor housing before the intercooler and a lower psi reading <but it will be the true psi reading the motr actually see's> if the signal is taken from after the intercooler/below the throttle body somewhere on the manifold not to mention if your using a boost/vacum type gauge then you want to see the vacum inside the manifold anyways so just t it into a line off the manifold if for some wierd reason your using like a old compressed air psi gauge and are only interested in the amount of boost your producing then by all means place the fitting anywhere between the throttle body and intercooler/turbo if you don have a intercooler

any vacum line thats conected directly to the intake manifold will be fine just go and add a "T" connector and run it to the bov on a stock based maf system like you have if you vent it to the air it is venting air that has been already calculated as to how much fuel it needs to burn correctly by the ecu so when it vents to the air you will usally get a nice little back fire sound from the excess fuel/not enough air combo if it vents back into the intake after the maf sensor but before the turbo anywhere then it will solve that problem and boosted is correct bov placement does matter closer to the throttle body is the best as far as a loud bov goes. well in my rx i have a hks ssqv bov vented to the air and you can hear it about a block away when i shift and am in a hurry to get somewhere.. or so i have been told i can run mine to air since i have a standalon injection/ignition system that no longer relies on a maf based system.. yay for me if you choose the hks route <and i recomend it if you can afford it> you can get a adapter or make one for it that will provide a way to vent it back into the intake system after the maf and before the turbo even after it vents back into the intake i pretty much gaurante it will be loud enough for people to look confused and say wtf ?

torxx usefull? lol only if he is getting me a beer hehehe granted that would be a long trip just to get me a beer but hey.. at least he would be useful

i know what you mean .. wish my first gear was a bit taller since at least with my setup the dam motor revs to quickly thus making first almost usless except to get rolling and then hit second asap lol