oddcomp

ok just to be a smart rump roast... is south central alaska just as bad as south central l.a??? hehe just had to ask i mean do you have like eskimo bloods and crips doing drive by's on snowmobiles? and such or dogsled? hmmm mush mush woof woof bang bang lol heh sorry tired good luck on your get together one more bit of idiocy.. on a "drive by" do they use bullets or just really hard snowballs? ok i promise i'll be nice now

i think so mr baja sez all the gearing will match up and i just pulled a clutch disc from my spfi block in the garage.. its got some life in it stil at least til i can afford a new clutch kit so your gonna be here huh... thats cool. lol you better get a going then !

so whos up for a impromptu midnight tranny swap this friday night i have gotten persmission to take err drag the car to work on my next night off wich should be friday and will have plenty of room in the building for a few people if anyone wants to come down and help i have 1 person so far but hey the more the merrier and .. faster since this will be a total auto to manual swap tranny's linkages pedals ect big building nice and dry forklift to pull motor out with so i don't need to drag my engine hoist this will be up in st helens oregon the fun starts at midnightish or sooner if someone wants to help me move it otherwise i gotta wait till bajavwsoobnut will be available to help me drag the car about 2 miles to work email pm or whatever if you want to get in on the fun.. act now before someone takes your place!

because one of those is a pressure switch that tells the ecu to open the wastegate solenoid ... so..no pressure signal being sent to ecu then the wastegate solenoid stays closed i bypassed my suby wastegate control system when i put my apc box in i only left the turbo light working .. actually i just stuck a bolt into teh orginal hose that went to the wastegate can to plug it and then hooked up the apc unit speaking of wich.. i need to change wastegate can's too the saab can it opens at 5 psi versus the 8ish that the suby can opens at it will allow my apc a bit more leeway in case it needs to drop boost to stop the detonation

oh yeah duh.. recirc sorta hangs open if i recal now .. doh! and boost fully closes it glad i have a map sensor

i overcame the fuel cut and maf in one shot

at idle? it should only affect it during the times it actually is sposed to vent off like hi psi on one side and hhi vacum on the other side of the signal hose yours may possible be leaking .. maybe but normally a non recirc setup will only cause problems on a maf system when it dumps all the extra air out that the ecu has already metered air for and then with out all that air you go rich for avery short time and it stumbles trying to burn it all if its plumbed for recirc style then it dumps all the metered air just in front of the turbo inlet and behind the maf so the sudden pressure burst off the bov keeps the maf from metering air to make up for the sudden pressure dump... if that makes any sense it does in my twisted little mind

i don't remember off hand it just alot of stuff i ahve run across in engine performance research i can try and dig up some numbers for ya if ya want but it won't be until tomorrow as its getting to be nap time for me

yes i have .. supposedly works well i suggest doing a google or vivisimo search on it first tho not sure what if any thing it does to the o2 sensor it will raise the flash point of gasoline so it does not ignite as easy as i recently mentioned to garner if he ever checks his email i got rid of fuel cut problems and also have solved the hi boost pinging seems the stock suby turbo ecu yes it does run a bit rich .. just cannot deal with raised boost and meter fuel very well i also run 10 psi and a not installed yet intecooler on cheap gas that i can afford and fairly decent ignition advance and do not get knock now.. reason being that i can figure .. i am now supplying enough metered fuel to the motor

wrap some teflon tape around the threads and tighten it to snug then go about 1/4 turn past that and it should be good enough ..

yay for calebz... so how does that help me?? hehehe

p and p on chambers reduces detonatioon by smoothing out sharp bits of metal the samll sharp acsting bis that are thinner absorb heat faster and also get hotter and cause pre ignition so yeah pretty much what archemitis said and also sort aliek eh said unless you know what your doing and can flow test the heads as you do them don't go much beyond just smoothing out casting lines and gettind rid of sharp changes in port angles if you can think in terms of asthma .. i guess.. the les restriction and smoother the path.. the better a person can breath . same with motors

i would love to dyno mine but have no idea where a dyno is in my area and prolly can't afford it plus it would be great to tune and get some good fuel and ignition maps to share with everyone who does what i did

well i built mine parts case and stuff 140ish.. new updated codes to do more nifty stuff free w00t edis ignition parts .. wel the junkyard stuff anyways like coil pack,edis module,vr sensor, and the pulley with the trigger ring on it about 35 ish depends on the the mood of the junkyard guy it seems down here anyways custom pulley or modified stock one.. i suggest custom . i fought with the stock one to combat slipping problems i ended up pinning my pulley so it could not slip well.. not sure how much the pulleys cost.. as i suspect from the various peopel who ahve been helping me i may have gotten a smidge of a price break just so i could prove it possible to do on subaru's i may be wrong and those who are offering pulleys feel free to chime in on prices then the last part is time. not as much as i spent figureing out everything and building it but time now all teh "hard work" is done oh as well as a custom pulley to fit the timing ring on you also need a mount for the sensor that reads the teeth on teh crank pulley ring thing i do suggest you get ahold of me on aim or yahoo under oddcomp or msn under oddballcomp@hotmail.com alot easier for me.. anyways to answer stuff.. i get confused easy and forget things lol plus i can send pics of my setup that way

spider will work with any style of maf as long as it has no air leaks between it and the maf

my high school shop teacher i used to have does cryo treating in addition to teaching now he does alot of cranks and gun barrels for instance a stock gun barrel that will stay accurate before cryo will last a few hundred shots bullet size how much they are loaded ect al take their own toll on the barrel but one that has been treated will stay accurate for a thousand shots granted those are not acurate numbers but it was how he explained how much it helped when i was talking to him last so if i had the money or needed it i would go for it

i don't have a hi comp turbo yet.. i may in the future but after my recent engine management system change over.. where before i had alot of detonation i no longer have it now at 10 psi and actually running a bit more timing advance with cheap gas one of biggest things to worry about is getting enough fuel under boost and timing both of mine are programmable on the fly btw i have a intercooler but its not installed and as such my intake temps at 10 psi max at around 220 and i have a max ignition advance of around 25-30 deg btdc under load at 10 psi i forget the exact advane i am running i will have to look it up for extra or correct fueling outside of ditching the suby ecu and going programable the only other semi cure is running a extra injector on a either pressure switch or off a circuit that reads o2 sensor output and add extra fuel when it thinks it needs it not perfect solutions but they do work

recirc bov can be had in junkyards on such cars as saab turbo's mazda turbo's a few other cars i have a nice shiny hks ssqv valve to put on mine but then again i don't need to worry about it being recirc any more also the hks one i have has a adjuster so it can be used on maf type cars and if you cna't adjust it enough they have a recirc adapter for it as well

more power can be expected since now the "ported" vacum spot ont he weber actually advances the disty like it hsould under acceleration yeah yeah i know much arguin has been done about how the disty advance should work

<-- gets out the smelling salts and the hi powered monkey fart gun dam it wake up!!

thanx i will pass it along to the guy doing all teh code mods on the megasquirt and edis code i think thats enough info to at least know if it can be done wishi had a ej here i could look at thanx again from what i know tho.. handleing that info shouldn't be a problem for the ms box

eh solved the problem fixed the excess ground i cut now it all works all the ecu does now is turn on the fuel pump lol

my hero!!!

ahh cmon.. where is your sense of adventure?? but yeah. all i can say is.. DOH!!!

ok step by step sorta ...open panel remove mounting things for ecu disconnect the plugs on the ecu put new ecu in place recconect plugs re attach ecu put panel back on start car and drive away thats is if it all works