oddcomp

thought of it wanted to do it figured out a manifold can't afford to try

actually in that model of saab that i showed you the motor is mounted backwards in the 900 series and sideways in the whale looking 9000 series the 900's have the weak tranny parts but the 900's and the 9000's and the maserati bi turbo's all have the apc units its a popular addon to the volvo hotrodder crowd this site explians the hows and why far better than i can all i can say is i have one and i like it http://web.inter.nl.net/users/turbo-team-europe/apc.htm

i had some stuff to say.. but i forgot maybe when i get back i will remember... hmm

i'll have my digi cam plus small computer in car to offload digi pics if anyone needs to make room for more pics

heh ask bajavwsoobnut whutsis name i recently redid my chevy alt mount works much better

may i suggest a saab apc unit fromt he junkyard.. for boost control? you can "adjust " how much boost it will let occur i personally use it in stock form on my suby and it hits 10-10.5 psi and it never lets it go higher plus it has a knock sensor so if you get knocks it will taper downt eh boost till it goes away from things like bad gas just random knock ect also after 4500 rpm it tapers the boost down a few psi also since at higher rpm you do not need as much boost all these adjust ments and such can be changed by turning the right potentiometer but like i said i run one on mine at the stock unmolested settings and am exceptionall happy with it and its pretty much wire it up connect the right vac/boost line to the pressure sensor it has and away you boost there is 3 main parts to it one is the controller box two is the pressure sensor and 3 is the duty solenoid that regulates how much boost pressure reaches the wastegate thing i mean if you want to go with a mechanical means that can not compensate for things then by all means go with it many people use them and like the results me however.. i will stick with the apc after all saab turbo's use this system with i think 9.5:1 compression and the motors usually outlast the rest of the car and drive train... well usually

well it was a bad day yesterday but i may have a temp solution till i can scrape up a new pulley i think if i drill about 3 1/8 inch holes into the pulley that run from the centersection up past the rubber crap and into the outer shell that the belts ride on.. i "may" be able to then make up some 1/8 inch pins coat them in some nifty gear locking stuff and drive them into the holes i drilled hopefully that will stop the slipping problem enough to get everything tuned in i hope it works cause it sure was a hell of a change driving it for the short time i did on the edis system even with out the timing maps sets correctly it had lots more power until the pulley started slipping i will try my pinning trick tonight at work.. hopefully it stops raining tomorrow .. dam i need a drill press so i can do stuff at home hmm good thing i am not as "slow" as my typing would indicate

well i give up in short yes it does work.. err did work but i don't have teh resources to finalize it i was battleing a small problem with the timing changing after i set it and it was caused by my own stupidty i believe by initially welding the timing ring to the crank pulley i damaged the bonded rubber vibration damper junk so everytime i reset the initial timing ring position to where it should work and then tighten up the power steering and alt belt the outer hub would slip a little bit at a time and since the trigger ring is on the outer hub it throws the timing off and since i have no way to make a solid crank pulley or afford one to be made i pretty much give up on it anyone who wants the info i have to continue pm me a good idea killed by stupidity

i'll be the one snoozing in the car waiting for every one else lol

well i am leaving work in st helen's oregon at 6:00 am and heading up there so if i am still awake by then count me in

no offense chip.. but can i ask how much background research you have done on the topic of cold airintakes and other such items relating to the induction of fuel and air into a motor.. oh and please do not take my poor typing skills as a sign of inteligence

fine.. get ahold of me i just put 10-15 miles and up to 60 ish mph on the dis system lots of timing map tuneing to do.. but dam its alot smoother and 5 psi pulls like 10 psi did on stock ignition so get on msn and we will.... go over things

well as of about 9:00 am i just finisehd putting about 10-15 miles on the subaru with out using the distributor for ignition ! it still runs teh fuel injection timing but it seems close enough that i can work on tuning the timing before i switch over the injection i have alot of timing mapping to do even with just using the base timing values in the ms it idles starts and runs alot smoother if i go over 5 psi of boost under heavy load it complains and detonates.. but under 5 psi and it pulls almost as much at 10 psi did on the stock ignition woot someone built a knock sensor interface i will have to work on that next as well as retune the timing map so under most normal running it does not ping its alot mroe responsive ohh and that anoyying surge we turbo owners hate... its gone well time finish my beer and head to bed i will be driving to work on the edis setup but if something stops working its jsut a few wires away from stock ignition to get me home again now i need to make some mounts for the coil pack and edis module.. they are kina just "floating "around under the hood right now hehe but i win... it works... it runs it drives. its better !

heh chock me into the insane class aswell i mean look waht i ahve been trying to do lemme know if i can help in some way wjm

oh ok now that you says 454 emblems .. prolly a chevelle ss cowl induction piece

sad circumstances all around i am sure you will make him proud i know if i had tools to.. get rid of in that situation.. the biggest joy to me is that they be used as often as possible

i sir.. salute you and here i thoght i was inventive with the beer laden creativity. that i usually use but if it works then it must be good!

ok .. my half serious reply.is... they are damp from the wet undies of passengers?

ok ... looks like its off a mustink.. er mustang.. how close am i? other than thats looking gooood!

so anyone know what size the o-ring is on that pipe that runs into the side of the waterpump friday the 13th yesterday visited me fairly hard dodge caravan turbo dropped the pickup sensor in the disty i think i maybe about to loose a head gasket on the subaru found out my o-ring is leaking on the water pump and more general fun stuff i need to get the o-ring before work tonight so i can put it on go to work then go to pdx u-pullit wait until they open up go locate the dodge parts i need and then come home and put them on.. so the sooner somone can answer the better for me thanx

cool thanx i will go check em out now

um yeah next time make sure you have that little locating pin in the crank pulley it keeps the darn thing from spining off like that as for removal put a punch in as close to dead center as you can get get a small like 1/8 or even maybe a 1/4 inch bit drill a pilot hole then get a bit thats just smaller than the threads since you don't want to wipe them out drill out the center of the bolt get a small long punch and you should be able to tap on the edges of the hollowed out bolt and push the metal in towards the center it works sometimes and other times not i would bet its in there good enough it will just break off a easy out maybe if you can get dry ice try putting it in the drilled out bolt for a little bit to make the metal contract and then try a easy out .. might work might not

oh yeah wasted 20 bux on exhaust shop bends.. sadly the actual bend "radius" is not tight enough hmm i may have to use weld el's since they can be had in really tight angles .. i just figured since many have intercooled their turbo's that at least a few have run into piping problems i can get a few on ebay.. but they ae aluminum and since i can't weld aluminum "lack of proper tools" i am stuck with steel hmm the search continues

where is a good place to order tight radius bends that don't cost alot? in steel so i can install this ford thunderbird intercooler i got

heh both are good