oddcomp

you could always just get rid of the distributor and not have to deal with it

o2 fitting go to shucks or sumthing and look for the line of stuff called "help" lots of little repair doodads they are supposed to have a weld in 02 bung or so i been told

firstly nice setup .. been thinking about that myself stainless is past my budget sadly about that funky "s" curve since the subie exhaust dumps out ont eh left/ drivers side.. a simple 45 deg or 2 90's would have maybe brought it out a tad bit better with less snakeyness in the syseten ,,just my thought ,,

dam.. my 87 turbo wagon has 230 thousand miles on it.. .. i can't imagine what a 22 thousand mile subaru would feel like ! wow

eh mine sjust gonna be a extended cab setup just enough rom for me to recline the front seats so i cna take a nap after work in the mornings when i am 2 tired to drive home the back doors will be welded up and yes i have figured out a reinforcement to cover the missing section of body i cut off

i am sure i see waht i think i see.. except they look a tad sharp... but i suppose that can be gotten around

btw.. sucking water bends rods and valves in any engine not just suby myself i would not use a intake that puts the filter area anywhere near the road or in a low position.. at least not lower than stock anyways there are still lots of ways to have a good intake setup for cool air and not create problems that could happen a little thought before building is all it takes

welcome to the board.. i however am one of those people whom you seem to triumph over in the use of the english language and spelling and punctuation,ect ,ect but i hold no ill will since you own a subaru so welcome once again

well ... anything that binds to your "cracks.. and pits..." prolly is not good in general .. regardless of whats its intended use in now that i have make the bad joke... just about any "engine fixit in a bottle" outside of injector cleaner... usually does more harm than good but thats just from what i know..

u... really don't want me to sing... trust me...

i have a 85 dl wagon i am making into a extended cab brat...

i have a rx motor in my garage currently... with almost no side to side wiggle but yet has almost a half inch of in and out play on the turbo shaft.. and a nice puddle of oil in the bottom of the turbine housing.. i would bet its pretty well.. shot.. but it still made boost and only smoked a little

big fat accurate spark... hmmm edis... ... when i can pull a plug wire off the coil pack and get a 1 - 1.5 inch spark... thats nice and blue... i consider that a fat spark... but then again i freely admit i am insane...

well it only took 3 tries.... lots of swearing when i thought i tottaly screwed up the pulley but at work i fixed itlast night did what i should have done in the first place and was suggested to do by more than one person... to dam stubborn i guess 4 pretty close to evenly spaced counter sunk screws with a dolop of locktight and after actually getting the trigger ring set correctly .. well close enough the target for the running base timing at least by the info was for 10 deg before tdc... i ended up with 10.5... maybe 11... it starts quick idles well has little to no miss .. what miss there is i think is caused by incorrect injection timing since its still fired off the disty and not the edis system i now have a nice trickle of water vapor out of the exhaust pipe.. in this case thats a good thing since its a byproduct of proper combustion.. did not have that on the stock subie ignition now to go pull out my megasquirt modify it upload the new code to it and hook it up i figure in the next day or 2 i will start running the dis system full time but leaving the stock disty in palce for at least.. a few weeks just in case i screw something up again but the end result ... is it does work now you can now send your reasearch contributions to my paypal account at.. lol now to go fix someones truck come home have a beer and go to bed in celebration ! may the dis be with you! hey shadow... get ahold of me ...

mine says 20 but i run it at 17-18 ish it likes it much better.. but i run 10 psi also and cheap gas in a few days no more disty w00t

well this figures.... went to remove the ring from my crank pulley got almost all of it off... in pieces.. not a problem and then the dam crank pulley itself breaks apart .. so dam close..... now i gotta get a new pulley made somehow this time so i don't have to weld it this... really sucks get so close to saying yay !!!! and poof.... so maybe i won't have it done by wcss.... oh well the ground work is laid for anyone who wants to pick it up

providing all goes well mind you this is not variable valve timing just straight up ignition timing that is totally adjustable and totally accurate no gear/belt slop and way less wear ont he drivers side timing belt i am sure i mentioned it but here goes again on msn oddballcomp@hotmail.com on aim or yahoo just plain oddcomp got a question? got a suggestion ? wanna tell me to give up? go ahead

i obviously belive in my ea82t wjm or else i would not go to all the trouble of what i have been trying to do... oddly enough i toyed with wrx yesterday in fact.. and he did not even try to play after i got around him due to traffic and then walked away.. aand i am pretty dam sure he coulda walked me .. but perhaps it was the fear of the unknown that kept him from playing perhap[s the 2.5 inch dia piece of exhaust thats before.. and visible after my muffler that led him to think otherwise... perhaps it was the fact that a mere station wagon witht he turbo lettering was playing around that made him feel like ... maybe there is more there than it looks... i like to think so... but the real truth is.. he prolly just didn't ive a rats ***** about my wagon and thought it was justa high mileage joke my 3at ea82t may never be close to a wrx .. but i am dam sure gonna try so keep up the good fight now excuse me i have a ignition to finish w00t!

well for a parts cost count the controller be it a full megasquirt is about 150 i think but tats fuel and ignition after modified or just the ignition controller i think thats about 50 ish or a bit more maybe after its all done and built junk yard parts sensor ignition module trigger wheel usually runs me around 25-35 ish a set depending ont he mood of the guy behind the counter coil pack... well new is better in my opinion the machined crank pulley.. well thats someone elses department so i can't actually suggest a finished price if you do it pice by pice its easy to afford if you try and do it all at once.. well i never could have done it then

well i may be dumb but i am not so dumb if anyone is actually attempting to follow my progress with even the slightest bit of interest here is a update,... after pulling the pulley off cutting all the welds out and re setting the ring according to the instructions on the previous post.... set motor to tdc and then set ring ten teeth ahead of sensor... ... now before i reveal my latest... ooops... or is it a DOH! let me state that i did and does run fairly well even until i shut off the ignition so .. the fact that it ran and idled .. means i am sooooooo close now here is the problem if you go up and re-read where i said 10 teeth before the sensor.. at tdc that would... give me the close enough to correct timing ... now look at this pic i took see the missing tooth is .. ten teeth before the sensor... anyone guess the actuall problem yet? .. ,, ,,, ,, when i set it.. i forgot the direction the subie motors spin so instead of the before the sensor .. that i thought i had..i actually did 10 after the sensor... making it .. more or less 180 or so off.. wel i am prolly wrong on the amount its off but... it did run. ran pretty dam good in fact i had to move my advance dial on my timing light to 40 deg before i could see the 10 deg mark on the flexplate so now since i have a night off in the morning or maybe later today i will go get some new grinding stones.. re-re-grind all the purty welds i did re-re-set the ring so its correct "with tack welds only this time" install it hook up the coil and ignition module and see if its close enough for government work then yank it off again and add more substantial welds to it and go from there but it did/ does run as it is now so that means when its correct this is not a wasted effort i dunno how many are actually interested in this but at least iw ill be able to point and say ... see i did that pretty important for someone who does alot of dreaming but not alot of "action" anyways ... it does prove i shoudl not do complex thinking when i am tired after work

i just got tired of the whole wimpy sube alt thing and went with a mount i welded up and a chevy alternator w00t

ok well now that i feel like the smartest idiot alive.. and after re reading some things...i know what i did wrong... and i will in fact blame it on my dyslexia and my over eagerness to get this going see... turns out i misread/misunderstood things .. i have it set for the base setting of 10 deg btdc.... when in fact it is suppsoed to be 90 deg from top dead center.... oops.. this is the page on the "official" instructions... perhaps you can see how i got confused... eh maybe not but now i know why it would not run for more than a few seconds now to go and fix it.. dam i feel stupid... http://www.jsm-net.demon.co.uk/megasquirtnedis/install.html oh well thats why its called do it yourself

well here is the "to see if it will work" setup i had working on the tach signal combiner right now since each coil set fires alternatly to trigger off one side would only result in fuel being injected at half the required rate so if you combine both sides it is injected at the correct rate in relation to the rpm .. or so thats how its sposed to work .,... but here is the mess! it ran for about 10 seconds at a time after that i think it starved out cause of not enough fuel since the injection was still trigered off the dizzy but for the short time it did ran.. wow was it smooth

by the way lineofbirds if i see waht i think i see thats a nifty avatar

woohoo right now i am posting on a small computer sitting on my firewall i got things half arsed wired up and i think i got the firing order right it will run for about 10 15 seconds then die but i think thats cause i am still using the disty to trigger the ecu to inject fuel so the injection timing is off i need to go and make the tach circuit adapter that will combine the 2 tach pulses from the 2 edis coils and try again but for those curious.. it looks like this will work !!!!!! i am gonna go run upstairs and grab my camera and take pic of the wiring mess i have then disconnect things for today and go make the tach adapter and try again maybe tomorrow once again yay!