oddcomp

well if your gonna have new heads made then forget valves and junk hehe http://www.coatesengine.com/ very cool ... i would love to get a set made for a turbo suby bust sadly i forgot where i planted my money tree at so i am poor

i think i saw a small intercooler over in the corner under the table

if you mill the heads to compensate for it what does milling do to the alignment of the intake ports. might cause leaks but then again it might not and will it affect the timing belts? i was thinking maybe some bigger pistons? maybe a set of custom one's? i don't know if any of the ea series had longer rods than the others i do know the n/a and turbo pistons are different

those area's can be "cleaned up" but one thing it will do is lower your compression ratio.. so think about how much your going to remove

uhhh.. icing is only a problem in carbed motors ... on fuel inejcted it runs through the throttle body mostly to help the engine warm up faster in other words emmision nazi crap and yes the hotter the air going in the less power going out it also increases teh chance of detonation as far as the temp sensor location... i thought it was that doohicky mounted right under the thermostat on regular ea82t's and mounted in the water passage on the spyder style intakes from looking at this spyder i have blockign that off is easy and will be done i am not sure how it is done on the standard ea82t intakes have not pulled mine apart yet

i sorta did the same thing wife hit the switch and killed the battery i also had to ask to find out why and just about kicked my own @ss when i heard the answer

just a suggestion... on your next rebuild maybe a nice shiny set of new rod bolts?

hmm hooters for lunch... or at least to have a nibble at what day? seems my ownly days off now are fridays since we seem to be doing 6 days a week .. someone please make it soon before i go to 7 days a week and then can't do anything !!!!! i beg of you i need some hooters!!! i mean after all i have never been there

lets see atf from what i know it makes the seals swell up so they seal once again <actual additive in it for that purpose so your auto box doesn't leak all over > yes it breaks up crud yes said crud will kill off a filter another less known option is to drain the oil out and belive it or not fill it with diesel and run it at a idle for a few minutes just don't rev it alot or put driving stress on the motor drain it add cheap oil run it again drain that and put your good oil in yes i have actually done this to a 80ish chevy hmm dam can't remeber oh wait it was a CITATION gah with a 2.5 l motor ran much better afterwords like many others i use a quart of marvel mystery oil in place of one quart oil at oil changes

first off .. clean up and polish the cylinder domes get rid of all casting marks get rid of any sharp edges <except the valves > find a spare motor tear it down and seperate it bolt the heads on to each half reach inside with a scribe <the use of machinists dye is recommended on the heads> and mark out with the scribe the exact position of the cylinder on heads <trace the cylinder on the heads> pull off the heads and look what you have it will tell you how much you can safely remove before interfering with the cyllinder sealing its as good a point as any to start with and much better than going all crazy with a die grinder as far as the intake and exhaust ports go port match the intake to the heads using the intake gaskets if your not sure what port matching is then before you trying it do alot of reading its how i learned <now if only i could learn to type so i can get my thoughts out better> if your fuel injected i would say polishing the intake side of the head ports when your done is good <no rough casting marks pretty much> if your carbed well then get rid of the nasty looking casting marks but leave the slightly bumpy surface there it will help improve the fuel and air mixing before it hits the cylinder i am sure there are many people here who can better explain this than me

the carbon deposits "could" plug up the cat.. but if you have that much carbon .. well thats gonna be teh least of your worries usually the carbon will break up once it breaks loose especially if you have a turbo

i forget i will have to check i keep meaning to run the turbowagon empty until it dies and then put in exactly 5 gallons of gas from a can run it on the highway till it dies then do the same for city driving as far as excess weight removal... would cutting most of the back upper half of a 85 dl wagon count as weight savings? i wonder what kinda mileage i get when i finish it and put the turbo motor in ..hmmm throttle sensors can have a big effect on mileage you can re adjust them to run leaner than normal not recommended.. unless you have a air/fuel ratio gauge to see what your doing maf sensors can be readjusted as well but even i wouldn't try that one.. well not with out a scope and some other stuff

it might be worth the time/money to look up gps tracking on the internet its basically a gps with a datalogger find someone good enough to "add" it to his rollback wait a few days and then have same said person retrive the unit and then look at logs some actually report on the move also but those obviously will cost more money but .. when you out 3 cars spending a few pennies doesn't seem so bad ok here i got bored here is a link to just a quick search i did http://vivisimo.com/search?query=gps+tracking&v%3Asources=Web btw should that work and you find the location of your cars <or sad to say the parts> and possibly many others .. i think then the police might be willing to listen

well i suppose you would if you ran it continuously just the same way a car that burns oil will mess it up and thats kinda what i meant by the hot carbon spots since its the edges that are thin and get the hotest thats why any motor i tear downf or a rebuild i spend some time with a die grinder smothing out all sharp edges in the heads <that also helps when done to the oil return passages helps it get back to the pan faster

well .. i did get all of it i was under the impression teh turbo cooling lines came from the head not the manifold eitehr way no big deal re wiring.. hell thats easy it was a 88 na xt i was actually looking for something like a numbers based improvement over teh stock setup the ac bracket is still on the xt and it was a huge ac compressor it will go on a 87 turbo wagon "mule test car" untill my do it yerself extended cab brat is finished

did i mention i run cheap gas and 10-12 psi with no intercooler and almost never get ping .. i think my ignition is 1-2 deg below what the sticker recommends "but" my tps is worn out so i also suspect i am running a bit rich also just got one at the junkyard to put on until.... well calebz knows hehe still looking for a intercooler

ummm hondasucks.. it was my understanding that the carbon deposits would get hot enough to glow at times creating hotspots that would preignite the fuel-air mix i'll have to go back through my mountain of books again to make sure i am remembering correctly <really bad memory> this works for carbon removal most of the time go get a vacum T from a parts store and a small aquarium air regulator find a source of manifold vacum put the t in and the aquarium thingy and run a hose into a bottle of marvel mystery oil adjust the regulator so you notice smoke out the exhaust and go for a drive with mid range rpms it might freak out teh ecu if your running fuel injection and its gonna smoke alot but it should clear out alot of the carbon crud also regular highway driving helps alot also i doubt mine has much carbon in it sicne i am on highway 30 everynight from longview to st'helens oregon and tend to get on it more than i should at least i know its cleared out

black smoke would be a indication of large amounts of unburned fuel suddenly burning the pop i would guess would be the large amount of unburned fuel exploding in the exhaust and clearing out the restriction at least for now once it plugs up again expect it to happen again but i may be wrong

well i figured it flowed better.. i was looking for a other reasons that and it raises the intake plenum up away from teh motor so it add less heat to the intake air charge.... or so it should

now supposing i stumbled across one in a junkyard.. what exactly are the benifits besides looks to adding one to my turbowagon or as i thought about it maybe just using the injector mounts/cooling runners and fabbing up my own top end for it .. with a bigger throttle body

i think for alts either go with a older bigger gm unit since they almost never seem to die mine came off a car that has been sitting since 95 i think shh don't tell my grandma... or with "gasp" a newer ford high amp unit

now see i done forgot at work we have these nice 2" copper lines for part of the c02 recovery system and those have some nice fairly tight short radius 90's for them i will take a few pics of what they look like the only rubber you would need is turbo intake to copper elbow the rest could be soldered up might be a bit cheaper than the silly cone stuff and also polished up copper clear coated looks good

i think the one reason those pulleys come off is the stupid little pin that fit into them and also one of the timing gears and mechanically mate them either gets lost or forgotten to be put back in and without it the pulley can and most likely will spin under load just all theory of course but good luck in your re re-build

hmm i actually clicked on that link and wonderd why it seemed why i should know it lol

seafoam works well and the injector driver things i know of usually use pulse width modulation to control the injector opening and closing still rebuilding my collection of fuel injection stuff after losing 60 gigs of data ackk!!!! and then had a power failure whiel trying to recover it double ack!!!! so just starting over