oddcomp

not having one... my question would be .. why did they add oil.. to the engine for a clutch job.. but then my thinking suggests maybe they added gear oil to the engine <not sure why they would add anything to the motor for a clutch job> and in turn your transaxle needs oild and there should be... not always but there should be a small dipstick for gear oil level ,, as far as teh clicking goes.. maybe a loose bolt on the flywheel ? or they did not tighten the tranny and or motor mounts correctly causing the motor/tranny to move more than it should under load i know there are a few more things i should be suggesting. but i cannot think of them right now and any shop that cannot hook up a battery after they work on the car and charge you money is a bad place glad i never have to pay anyone to work on my cars for me

i had a old worn out like 12" cherry for a while not to bad went to a shucks special 20 dollar "raptor" 2-1/4 muffler not a bad sound but adding about10 inches of copper pipe to the end so it comes to the end of the muffler makes it much better i may use the small cherry as kind of a "resonator" after the muffler just to se ehow it sounds

me myself and I suggest if you cna do it to find a old fuel injection pump dig up a fuel injector driver schematic run the fi pump to a small tank your preferance of injector cleaner and position the injector so it dumps back into the tank and run this little setup for about half hour to hour on each injector btw i do suggest some kind of fuel psi regulator as well it *should* do a decent job of cleaning injectors <or tbi stuff just take off the tbi and put it over the cleaner container just something i been thinking of doing .. for a while but never have gotten to the reality part of the idea yet

perhaps go have a shop bend up a few 120degree pipes and then cut them apart so off the turbo intake its a really short 90 then anotehr really short 90 kinda like this ( ) hmm after 2 tries it resets the ( ) so .. but you get the idea i think only so much you can do with keyboard characters but i think that would solve your interferance problem but it means more welding in the end but i suppose a decent exhaust shop can make a S curve easily since they occur alot on automotive exhaust systems

not having the ecu in ront of me but from what i do know of how stuff works /is wired backup is a constant voltage <fused direct to battery type thing> and the ecu power i would guess to be turned on when the ky is in the run/start positions as far as sensor power.. hmm that could depend on if its supposed to be a regulated steady voltage or if it takes the voltage and tehn regulates it to transfer out to sensors and then based on the return voltage take its readings... but i could be way wrong

hmm for what its worth on my swap i did i went wire for wire small chevy wire to small suby wire big chevy wire to big suby wire suby bat wire to chevy bat post <plan on changin that to direct to battery soon> no smoke works fine and has at east 500 miles on it now since i did it

my recent adventure into the more power for ea82t realm involved the use of a saab apc unit <automatic power control> it regulates and controls the boost pressure and keeps it rock steady does wonders just with stock settings but it is adjustable if you know where the adjusters are i don't recall what teh stock suby boost is but with a unchanged apc unit i hit 10 psi right dam quick and it stays there until i either let off the or it senses spark knock/detonation then it drops the boost a little at a time until it goes away basically letting it run as much power as the motor can tolerate with out detonation also in stock setting once your ast around 4500 rpm it tapers teh boost down a few psi but that to can be adjusted all in all its a cheap way to have a smart boost control system installed on a 87 gl10 with 218k miles anda 3speed auto even i can chirp tires off the line now not sure how much more power its added but there is a huge improvement my next steps are programable fuel injection <lots of power gain there and economy> and hopefully distributorless ignition system also lots more power/smoother running and economy plus a intercooler when i can find one i can afford working on a blow off recirc valve tonight at work hopefully i have a 2" exhaust with a hi flow cat i found premade in a junkyard <wierd but hey it works> and cut out the bottom of the airbox hey both have helped alot and for a muffle i used a 22 dollar shucks special someting called a raptor muffler with 2-1/4" ins and outs and a short section of 2" cooper pipe to finish it i hope this did not jack anyone thread but it is after all ea82t mods

ahh so your doing what i just did with a saab apc unit.. but mine does not interface with the ecu but dam does it make a difference i need to get a intercooler before i go and readjusting the apc for more boost i would suggest you do the same ..unless of course you have a intercooler already

to quote mr stone cold steve austin "OH HELL YA!!!!!!" hehe

raising compresion is just fine even with a turbo motor it helps alot in non boosted cruise for economy you have to use the right hardware like me i am instlaling a saab apc system that back down teh boost anytime it hears detonation hehe plus i dug up a bunch more automatic boost controll schematics and some other stuff that will drive up 4 or 5 additional injectors depending on the amount of boost the system see's weee

with enough parts and heat and hammering anything will fit anywhere

try limiting straps to keep the suspension from drooping down that far... just a idea

you could always go staged as well where one turbo is small for fast spool up and the second turbo is bigger for more pressure

egr or o2 sensor mine does it cuse of the mods i have done the ecu expoects to read a certain amount of gas in the exhaust at a steady state cruise condition so if hte egr is messing up then it does not see that and it flips the check engine light jst blip teh throttle and it will go away annnoying but nothing serious at least in my case

yeah well... you and your good luck suck!!! i know the deal... but anyways in all reality except mine good luck lemme know if you need anything figured out

mine does it it used to have the air suspension junk previous owner swapped it with regular suspension junk its prolly the air compressor in the drivers side fender building up pressure since it takes amps and volts to run a 12volt compresor that might be why it took a bit extra due to the extra load on the battery ?

mr scooby after having done my own gm alt conversion go wire for wire on the wiring pretty much small wire to small wire big wire to big wire and the bat wire to the suby bat wire its what i did and 300+ miles works great well and i welded up my own fab-tastic bracket great welding learning experience don't forget to add some extra grounds i did but then again i kinda polished my bracket and clear coated it hmm that sounds kinda bad... i just sure everything was grounded want pics ? email me oh and my idiot lights on my dash did the same thing

3 link wish bone 4 link 6 link leaf spring still one small problem to account for drive line angle so when its at max aticulation the drive line does not freak out and your u-joints blow apart.... as far as finding a usable setup try doing a search for rock crawler's since they usually have the most extreme and beefy suspensions on some of the wierdest things and a few might have some helpful idea's for ya ?

dam drunken tree's!!! why don't they watch where they are goin

i have to go with gd on this one... if you hook it up to pure vacume source then it will be at full advance at idle and cruise instead of the intended way that being ported so when the throttles open it then advances to help increase the tourque ect ect yes there are many ways they are hooked up the thermo switch kind is for emmsions crap by pass the thermo and its fine the dual port ones are meant so it helps retartd the timming when the throttles close thus reducing the chance of a backfire and other funn things it could be that perhaps my 4 foot stack of engine books are wrong.. or i am remembering incorrectly

ahem... i have offered my digicam before....

mmmmm hotwings <---cast iron stomach

little more throttle response from no egr so its not all bad maybe a tad more power doe syour car have a o2 sensor in the exhaust? if it does with the egr working when you get going at a steady cruise the check engine light will come on just blip the throttle and it will goe away mine does it

my old highschool shop teacher put out the bucks to set up a cryo-treatment thingy instad of heating stuff up he cryogenically tempers teh steel with extreme cold from what i ahve learned when i pop in every now and there at school to say hi is that it works well on crankshafts and is very popular for gun barrels for instance i do not recall teh actual rate but but its pretty close where a normal gunbarrel would stay accurate for say oh 1000 shots <just a example i forget his actual numbers> before the bore wore down enough to lose the rifling in it and throw off the accuracy the same .. well identical barrel cryo treated is good for around 2-3000 shots before a noticeble shift in accuracy and he has actually tested this if you can find someone having the hub and such cryo treated may be a bit better if not cheaper? i do not know how much he charges but if anyone wants i can ask next time i am in the area i been thinking of getting my suby crank treated

i run cheap gas all the time with no problems still more or less stock boost right now if your worried about detonation under boost you could look into what ia m going to try get a saab apc unit it uses a knock sensor to bring boost down below knock level and when there is no knock i raises it back up so supposedly you make the most power for whatever conditions are on hand http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/6776/apc.html basically what i am talking about