oddcomp

hmm you stopped in longview huh oh well i was prolly sleeping at the time anyways maybe one of these days i can go join in on the fun <sigh>

mm sucks v-day and i work graveyard oh and i have no clue where mikes is

safety hell oh yeah like the pinto was a safe car lol looks like a shortned vw vanagon ... but i would still take one if given the option

detonation in a dyno will show up as a powerloss the amount of power loss will depend on the degree of detination

just about total reliabilty i know it will run 99 percent of the time the fact i can get help on issue's with it on here unlike other car boards where they seem to be a bit more stuckup alot of the parts are affordable witht he mods the nifty darthvader whooshie nosie from the turbo i love having vehicles that are different than what the "norm is" i know my family wil be safe in it

well you can build a do it yourself wideband o2 sensor you can build a do it yourself fuel injection ecu thats programmable that being said i would almost bet you have eitehr some sharp edges <carbon chunks cracks ect> in the heads that are glowing and causing the preignition maybe the timing belt is a tad loose and alowing the timing to bounce around alot at high rpm crappy bushings in the dist causing spark scatter and detonation lets see your running colder plugs so chaces are they are not getting hot enough to keep the carbon buildup burnt off and the carbon is causing the preignition <seen it before on v-8's and other motor's> i run el cheapo gas 8mm accel solid core wires stock coil almost stock timing setting just a smidge retartded i think and stock heat range plugs and a 180 tstat and have i would say 95% no detonation issues except for the occasional burp here and there and my hearing is very well for picking up odd noises like detonation and other things that don't belong there but for fun try hotter plugs and some marvel oil down the intake works great for getting rid of carbn

no in my opinion putting these on instead of pushrod operated valves or ohc valve would be kick rump roast http://www.coatesengine.com/

well after my 10 inch cherry bobm fell off the back of my essentially straight pipe setup i went down got a 20 some odd dollar raptor turbo muffler they of course did not have the exact 2"inch size i needed so its adapted and clamped on till i can get it welded it does add a lower tone to it and is much quieter but you can still tell thats its not a stock setup now to fix the rest of teh few tiny leaks in the system glad i saved that nice saab exhaust system

one of the biggest reasons why the semi hemi reduces detonation besides the lower compression is the machining gets rid of some of the sharp edges /corners wich reduces hot spots that can contribute to detonation as well a nice blending and polishing job in the combustion chamber would help achieve the same results but with out the expense of milling and a few other things

right now i have a short short glass pack mounted all the way at the end of the exhaust where the stock muffler would be

after you get it straightened perhaps weld in some square stock as a subframe to help reinforce the already stressed unibody to help prevent future problems you could cut holes in the floor and tie the roll cage into the subframe might also help with your new suspension fabrication just random mumblings that i had thought of doing if i had a welder and money and time

now for my .0000002 cents in the turbo pic that looks alot like a saab b.o.v or at least a bosch one well that and a ceramic bearing turbo would be cool to have how well does that intercooler work set up like that seems like it would not get alot of airflow but then again i did not study the pic very close

not to jack a thread but i will take sloppy seconds after he gets his but i need a ea82t one

yes the gauge sending unit works like a variable resistor/potentiometer

87 gl-10 turbowagon all seems to be original except for usual repair stuff needs the cam seals and oil pump seals done but grand total so far is 213k miles oh yeah its a automatic

at least suby bearing can be replaced one bearing at a time the ones in my s-10 are almost like a cartridge and expensive

i was thinking the same thing but going through the actual bearing carrier / hub on the side between the bearings you would have to take the tire off to greasse it but still might be less of a risk of metal fatigue

car stero shop get some 10 gauge power wire got it in all sorts of colors including fancy gold plated connectors <soldering them is better than crimpinng>

yeah i love those lets make a killing on the shipping types hey look a 2 dollar item and well ship it for the super low price of 30$ lol

crack head advice huh .. now i see why some people are taking vacations from the board sorry for trying to help

having more /better grounding wires will help not sure about how much of a increase you could expect i did read a article in a import mag while waiting at the store where they did a dyno test before and after the wires and there was a difference <sp> on the dyno the other nice side benefit is the decreased radio noise a litle more efficiant charging system i would assume that the fuel injected system might like it since having more ground paths would most likely result in more stable sensor signals especialy in crappy weather / offroading and last but not least a few links i picked out and a list search engine results http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread/t-422.html http://www.international-auto.com/tbgroundcable.html http://www.automotiveforums.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=74745 http://search7.vivisimo.com/search?subquery=dyno&v%3Afile=viv_14ac7aab1d096b69b3e22cc189097bca&v%3Aframe=results&v%3Astate=%28root%29%7Croot-0-20%7C1&v%3Asubsearch=1

for my own experience a stout screw driver wedged in the teeth on the flywheel/flex plate depending on your tranny and a nice breaker bar / pipe assisted ratchet seems to work well and safer for me by the way also from experience when you get excited your done and in a hurry to try out your handi work please remember the screwdriver it makes a nasty noise lol

well the way i did it was the 3/4 in ratchet a impact socket and and 10 foot section of 3 inch diameter 1/4 inch wall steel pipe the pipe has so much weight /leverage to it that all it took me was one finger to push down on it hehe done 4 axle nuts that way 6 if you count my s-10

will you be doing cnc machining? having been in a cnc class i am very interested in how you plan on doing it dam i miss having access to a cnc mill and lathe

so where's his shop at?