oddcomp

i would say it is prolly from the planetary's as alot of trannys use plastic bushing and crap in the strangest places where it should be stronger at least i think it should be stronger my 211 k turbo wagon with autobox seems to take a few seconds to build up enough pressure to move when its cold once its warm it run just fine well except a sligh delay from 2nd to 3rd but thats kinda random find someone with a fsm for that tranny and se if you can figure it out based on size where it went i assum the fsm will have specs for what is good and what is not good on clearances and bushings if you have half you can figure out what size it originally was

well there i was after reading your post sitting in the throne room.... reading a suby repair manual since with any luck i will be redoing my turbo motor on my vacation and i flashed apon the idea of how your getting water in the oil ... those access plugs to get to the wrist pins one in right behind the water pump and i assume subject to water pressure is it possible that for some reason that plug is leaking water into the crank case? hairline crack not enough sealer on the threads ? thus causeing it to over heat in the first place then <gasp> possibly warping the heads or block? just a idiotic theory made up in the thinking room lol as far as studs well i would suggest scouring the import tuner mags for parts sourses that sell metric studs then measure all of your bolts and thread size and call around asking if they have x amount of studs in x amount of length and x amount of diameter perhaps a ej20 or bigger motor has the same size bolts ? try calling arp since they make studs blots and who knows what else for almost anything i would think perhaps someone in the airplane community has used studs at one time for reliabilty well cough cough off to work cough ugh

yeah for almost any engine if you can afford it i would go with studs and nuts alot stronger and alot less cylinder warpage when the final torque is achieved o ringin is great if your running a blower of insane amounts of boost or compression outside of that its a bit over kill for the average street motor not saying its a bad idea and if you have the money it doesn't hurt to do it i would guess that archemetis and skip prolly has the anwer on bottomed out bolts and bad torque readings from the thinner gaskets you sealed the gaskets ? what did you use to do that ? o ringing can be done to any motor just takes money and a machine shop to cut the step to hold the copper ring

hehe looks familier had a oldmobile omega <junk> and the rotor got so bad what was left of it finally seperated from the front hub .... eventually had the money to fix it

hmm i figured miles could have a fox in a box with green eggs and ham on his car hehe

relatives dodge caravan did same thing i traced it down to a bad idle air control valve .... just recently by the way

what size threads are on the 2 lower tranny to engine studs on a ea82t and what size threads are on the knock sensor for a ea82t?

umm since his is turbo i assume its fuel injected .. if you unplug the computer then you have nothing running the injectors ... and i would bet he has a leak somewhere in between the engine and the maf sensor causing it to start hard loose clamp the occasionally forgotten to re attach vacum line <i always hate those> ect ect

the o2 will have no effect until the engine reaches a certain temp and it goes off the preprogrammed warm up fuel and timing maps then it will go into closed loop and take input from 02 perhaps check the and see if the maf has died or even the throttle sensor did you try some fresher gas?

ooohhhhh i knew they was silly cone i just did not know they where supposed to leave residue on my winders

still work great except it seems i now have a film almost like a poorly applied rain-x type of crap i am guessing its mold release agent from when they made the wipers now i need to get that off the window they still work much better than what i had on there and the wings do help above 40 mph i normally started to get wiper float then now if i can get rid of that stuff on the window

ok now that i feel exceptionally stupid this morning i looked again mine has one pod and a small box under neath that one and a few vac lines one runs from the compressor side to the box then to the wastegate wich according to one of my manuals is what does the fuel cut at x amount of psi i still think a simple air pressure regulator set to bleed off at a certain psi below the fuel cut would still allow the ecu to add more fuel under boost but not cut the fuel that was my whole worry with the fish tank bleeder valve type of setup is not letting the ecu get enough signal to open the injectors more i was thinking of a 86 rx with a vane and 2 pods oops lol by the way on that car the wastegate line runs right off the compressor fitting

i thought on 87 and up it still had the double vacum sensors one for the dash light and one runs to the ecu to signal boost and how much and in turn the ecu decides based on the voltage provided from the boost sensor when we are at fuel cut levels .... or so i thought since my 87 maf'd turbo has the double boost pods i really need some fsm info on how the ecu reads sensor data to come up with a better idea anyone got a section on the ecu and turbo sensors they can scan and email? for 87 and up maf and 87 down flapper systems? eventually i will just ditch the maf and use my programmable fuel injection controller but that won't be until i get the wife a minivan and i can have the wagon

so far in washington weather <90 percent rain> they work so much better than stock wipers looks like its raining again and i gotta head to work soon so more testing time !!

i know what you mean yeah i was just thinking the regulator would let it function normally until it got to just before fuel cut and dump the excess pressure out of the line to the sensor seems like it would work better than a check valve is all

anyone thought of using a small cheap air pressure regulator on the line that runs to the boost sensor that sends a signal to the ecu to cut fuel at a certain psi ? just a guess if you used a air pressure regulator that starts to vent about 1/2 or 1 psi before the fuel cut is activated then the ecu would never know that its in what it considers a overboost state run the dumped pressure into the turbo inlet although i suppose with that small amount of air being automatically bled off it might not be enough to mess up the maf sensor who knows just a silly idea

no i did not put a maxi pad on the turbo wagon although with as much oil and tranny fluid its startig to leak that may not be a bad idea what i am talking about is these nifty new wipers i ran across at wal-mart they are 18 inch so they a smidge over the 17 thats suppposed to be on there they have a small wing on each wiper so the faster you go the better the wipers stay against the glass instead of them starting to float the are called cyclone wipers they do seem to work so much better than what i had on there that will be the only winged type of device i put on my wagon and yes i relaize that that small wiper wing will not add any hp unlike a giant erector set on the back :brolleye: i am however confident that the spiffy red color will make me faster you can look at who makes them here http://www.cyclonewipers.com well now to finish my breakfast and head to bed btw they are about 6-7$ a piece and have a few other colors

sorry over looked the part where you siad to get the hose at nappy <nightoff> nitril gloves? i usually don't use them when i work on cars little castrol super clean on teh hands works well lol just watch the cuts i will check on oem prices today and give them a estimate oh and 88 rxsedan this 86 rx is a 4door as well 75 sounds good to me put it towards my engine hoist fund hope they did nto damage the engine as she has driven it to work like this a few times :temper: but it didn't get very hot just steaming and such she said

but but the card board box is where my cable modem and puters reside ...

so 50 ish plus parts? have many manuals hmm i just replaced the intake gaskets about a month ago had a blown drivers side intake gasket who sells silly cone hose by the foot? i actually don't wanna do it and wish they would realize they need to just sell me the rx but at one time they wanted 2k for it....

someone needs the water line under the turbo on a ea82 replaced and beside parts wants to know how much they would have to pay me usually i just tell people what ever they think its worth most of the time i get more than i expect anyways but this person wants a price and i really don't know how much to charge never having replaced one yet i have no clue how long it will take any idea's? btw its a 86 rx with what looks to be dual 02 sensors one before the turbo and one after oh yeah where a good place to get a decent price on the mounting gasket kit? i have seen them as high as 30$ or more so far :brolleye:

i have used ngk in everything from lawn mowers to big block 413 dodge"s all with good results also ahd a brief chat with a guy building a potiac motor on a dyno stand and he bought a bunch of plug types and had the best dyno results with the ngk as well so who want's or needs to spend 5 bucks per plug when the ngk's work so much better and are affordable

cool good prices too bad it sems they only do ea81 motors i see they have a 140 hp ea81 mpfi custom engine... 140 ea81.. with that in mind i wonder how much i could pull out of this ea82turbo since when i tear it down i plan on balancing it matbe i will finish my programmable fuel injection ecu also

where do you find affordable rebuild kits for ea82t engines

4 lows 4 hi's and able to cook a turky dinner from a mile away lol really tho thats cool