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Very possible.

I'll let our Canadian friends comment but parts often seem very high in Canada. I believe taxes on improrts are very high.

I do it about like TC. I also agree it is air. Setright had a whole post about how to bleed the system becuase so many folks have had this problem.

Also try removing the belt (when cool). You can often feel a dragging or rough bearing by spinning.

Before I paint I like to clean with Scotchbrite and Tide. Since we can't see your wheels I'm not sure if this is an improvement or not. Some old wheels are quite grubby, especially the alloy ones.

In case you don't like it later start by just painting them. If it looks cool powder next year as the paint gets tired. One look I like on Subarus I saw on an older Legacy wagon. The guy had gotten what looked like American car steel wheels, painted to match the car, and put baby moon hubcaps on. I thought it looked kind of macho and probably did not cost a bomb in money, but I bet it took a lot of junkyard time.

an old Subaru that does not leak at all is more rare. Seals seem to last about 100,000 miles and after that seep a bit. Even when they have been replaced 40,000 miles ago like mine I find a small bit of evidence of leakage on the front main. I agree with doing timeing belt, water pump, fint seals and tensioner at the same time. When you need a clutch do the rear seals and the seperator.

I hope it's just condensation. Look at your holding tank and tell us what you see.

Who is doing the mail while you are goofing off???? Seriously TC, get better soon or you may get to like Opra!

My Forester is also no rocket on the temp. My BMW with much larger engine and cooling system warms up quicker. The little alloy engine in the Forester also cools down quickly. Of course I only notice at all on cool days.

I bet we will know soon. Sounds like good maintenence for all of us.

people 1 deer zero!

Yep WA, that's what happens when you stretch an engine. Their entire production line is set up to make these blocks and the cheapest thing to do is bore larger. After you have the crank with as large a stroke you can get this is the only way to get bigger. Due to smog laws the engine have to run much hotter than they used to and much leaner. Closing the deck or O ringing would fix it but be more expensive. They seem to have been going the cheapest way which would be a gasket capable of taking movement. This also explains why engines often fail on a long trip. You get into another whole level of heat soak then and my thoughts are that the liner moves then.

Trucks and busses use dryers in thier air brake systems.

That sounds like it could be a thrill. When I got my Chang Jaing the other day the first intersection was a similar thrill. I had the hubs powder coated and the did the inside of the brake drums too.

A block heater keeps the engine and compartment a bit warmer. Do folks with block heaters still have the problem?

I've never seen that WA, but that would sure do it wouldn't it. I've seen backwards clutch plates, non fitting pilots bearings, misaligned clutch plates plenty. On my commercial trucks I used to sharpen the mainshaft to make the clutch align better because we changed so many clutchs due to SF hills.

The only time I used to get stuck was when I high centered. It just seems the WRX would be more prone to high centering and power is not going to be any use when the wheels are in the air.

Yup, you'd have to pick carefully but some of those fluids are more resistant to temp changes and a bit different viscosity. Won't do anything of course if it is a booster or check valve problem.

also clean up the pins while you have it out. Lube everything you can lightly, and sometimes a longer bolt can be used to help pull it in. I also use a measurement too, tape or caliper to be sure the gaps are the same top and bottom and side to side. I can't always tell by eye. Even using the clutch alignment tool you can be off. It's best to test fit parts first.

Just for chuckles why don't you try racing brake fluid and see if it makes a difference.

My money would be on the OBW.

Manual or automatic? On manuals clutch alignment is often a problem and on automatics a poorly seated torque converter. A bit more info is in order.

Frankly I think the more you know about cars the more likely you are to change the gaskets if funding permits. Some folks like nipper have purposely run them to see what happens and test thier personal therories (and he was right, the lower end let go before his gaskets). In my cars I really like reliability and I reckon this saves me getting a new car. Maybe it cost me $1500 or so but I have three reliable years behind me (Subaru kicked in bucks later too which I won't count for this purpose). This means reliabilty has now cost me $500 a year. Every year it does not leak reduces the cost furthur.

Subarus are tough to do much testing on for the average guy. It's not like we have a single gasket sticking up on top of the engine. I'd have a hard time blaming the fasters for this, but sometimes a stud kit has fixed a gasket blowing Chevy.