Robertheil

My nephew in law lives in Yakima and he tells me all the time how many he sees for sale we are eventually going to move out that way in the next couple years just gotta get the funds up lol would be nice to get out of the rust belt

The 2.2l cars are hard to find here I've only seen 2 in the past year the 2.5 is easy to find but anything under 2k either has engine issues or it's sold in an hour I told my wife if her 02 forester goes then I'm taking it lol i know the carb setup will cost more in the long run but I can buy the parts slowly over the months I've read the guides and have a lot of posts bookmarked

I'm looking at getting this done before the Midwest gamlber 500 in Iowa so the cheapest and simplest way for me to get it setup and running is by doing a carb even a single carb ej you don't get to see that everyday

I actually seen that video a few days ago it's what made me start to search the forums and try the vw forums as well the 2.8l dual carb stroker would be awesome but as right now with buying the engine and other bits I also have to do the head gaskets on my wife's forester and seal up the oil separator plate I'm going to seal up the whole engine while its out I have to replace the water pump on my ea82 that engine has 100k more miles then the wagon does I still put around 900 miles a week on the thing it's either the pump leaking or I disturbed the o ring when I replaced the radiator the weather here has been funky it was 74 the other day now we have over a ft of snow so it makes it a challenge to try and check

How far will the carb and filter stick above the fenders a while back loyale 2.7 turbo posted a picture of a dual carb ej22 and the adapter to mount the carb to the engine the model of adapter was kc227 and the top of the air filters appeared to sit level with the alternator I know the vw crowd has done this using modified stock intakes and running a metal rod to connect the carbs throttles around where I live it's pretty hard to find a 2.2l Subaru let alone find any in the yards that still have the engines in them between the 4 pull it yards around me there are only 8 subarus also too many people trying to flip cars for a living so going with a carb'd ej will be cheaper for me as I can buy parts as I go subarus here rarely drop below 2k if the carb sticks out of the hood my wagon would look interesting with a scoop lol I've never done a fuel injection swap but I've worked with carbs a few times with our Willys that has a gm 235 with a carter I've read the write up and that's a lot more work to me then it is to throw a carb on a ej to put in my loyale it would also be simpler to undo the swap if I needed to I found a ej22 at AR1 auto wrecking in Yakima with 189k miles for 250 I need to see if they will ship it the say it has 165 for compression just need to call them in the afternoon

Going to catch some flack for this but I know it's been done before I don't feel like doing all the wiring plus I can slowly gather parts for this I seen in a previous thread that loyale 2.7 turbo posted pictures of a ej22 with dual carbs the adapters used to mount them above each head shown on the package was kc227 by Lynx and the common distributor is an early ford escort I've also seen some of the vw people use megajolt I just think this would be funner then messing with wires and around where I live this would be cheaper to do then trying to get a donor with a 2.2

Will the old cyclops eyes fit on the loyales there's been one for sale in the black hills for the past 2 years along with a 83 ea81 turbo wagon I've been tempted to get the wagon but don't like the idea of how long it has sat it's been parked for almost 14years anyway the cyclops eye he has from another vehicle he had 2 brats but he sold them before I was able to make a trip up there

The ones I found are 10 bucks each Skf deep groove 62072RS C3 35x72x17mm it's what others recommend getting from bearing suppliers we don't have one local but I'm used to ordering everything online anyway I just need to look for the part numbers for the cone washers and other parts and see if the dealership can find them that way they are able to see the parts but can't order them due to they have no idea the part numbers for any of the parts I need

Wow times on this are all wrong I went to sleep at 2am lol

I do apologize if I had an attitude I was at work when I posted back last night and just stupid people they cut our hours Monday your help is appreciated

Understandable I'm going to be doing both sides it's just a bummer that Subaru here don't have any part numbers and are pretty unwilling to help with these older cars the response from the parts guy was to get a newer model instead of fixing something outdated lol

Even if all it is is a worn cone washer I'll still replace the bearings and you have even commented on other people's posts about failed wheel bearings on ea cars just because it hasn't happened to you doesn't mean it don't happen as I'm sure you have read the posts about them they may usually last the life of the car as most say but other things can cause a bearing to fail and like I've said this car hasn't been taken care of and I don't mind working on it so my labor is just that lol the wheel only makes noise after it gets wet so I bet water has been getting inside it a few other people have had this problem herein South Dakota we use a lot of salt and corrosive liquid chemicals to melt the snow and ice they put it down as a preventive measure they put it down if there's a chance of snow it's a waste and it's nasty for vehicles here I just did tie rods on a 06 Pacifica body looks great under body is riddled with rust the Subaru dealership here don't carry or order any parts for ea model subarus as there is hardly any on the road there is one restored justy and 3 Gls and my loyale they don't last here

I spent 3 days getting this thing to the way it is now lol I drove it 95 miles on 3 cylinders because the check engine light doesn't come on its either burnt out of the guy accidentally pulled the wire out when attempting to install the aftermarket cruise control I didn't care about the engine when I bought it just the body I still need to try and find shifter bushings as they are shot also the return spring is missing so there's a lot of slop but I still drive this car 135 miles a day I've put 6k miles on it in 2 months lol

this car wasn't taken care of by the last person who owned it when it first started knocking the guy put 2quarts of Lucus in it and tried tightening the head bolts because it was leaking oil and coolant also stripped out the oil pan bolts also tried installing a cruise control unit but he gave up

Also the previous owner welded the ball joint back together instead of replacing it and the bearings sound dry you spin the wheel while its jacked up and you can hear it do it to any of the other wheels and nothing

it is definitely a bearing

A cv won't make a rotational rubbing sound and also won't have play in the wheel I checked it last night also my cv was replaced by Subaru last year I have the receipt in my glove box it's definitely not a cv my last loyale had bad cvs and this is not the same noise you may not have had problems with bearings but a bunch of people here on the forums have so has my buddy who's been driving ea body cars for 35 years my older loyale you couldn't turn a corner without clicking in either direction

I'll be buying some pre sealed wheel bearings for the front as I get this noise once in a while coming from the right wheel while turning left the tires up front are new and the rears are older the rear left has wear on the outer rim so I'm guessing the bearings are shot I didn't notice any play when I did the ball joint but that was so bad it moved in the socket of the ball joint the previous owner welded the ball joint back together as they pull apart so I couldn't really tell if the bearing was bad so looking at the rear wheel I'm guessing it's shot

It just gets annoying were still warm but it could be a lot warmer I just have to get some time to check it out but I may not get time until spring sadly but by then I might be picking up an 85 GL and a 87 my wife is going to kill me but I'll get them for dirt cheap as the guy is the same person who gave me his 91 loyale but he says he don't have vacuum leaks under the dash lol the 85 just creaks but keeps going I'm thinking about doing an ej swap on one but idk all the wiring I've seen from numbchux guide just gets confusing lol it don't really seem like much tho

If I can see where the blend door cable is I can see if it moves all the way or not I still need to take that clove box off to see how I can rig it to stay on defrost so I can cap the vacuum going to the cabin so the only line will be going to the 4wd and I won't have to worry about the car dropping out of 4wd as where I live I have to use it a lot the local farmer plows the gravel road and sometimes it takes him a few days to get them all plowed the county don't touch these roads as its right on the border of South Dakota and Iowa the road is literally the boarder lol

Lol just noticed my wagon looks just like your profile picture except mine has a silver hood when I bought it the guy didn't tell me the hood latch don't latch right so when you close it you have to push down on it so the hood came up on the highway luckily it was raining and my wipers were up when the hood came up so they took the blow and not the windshield but the hood still folded over the top some guy pulled over within seconds and gave me a tie down and I drove 95 miles like that with the original motor knocking away lol it sounded like tin cans dead center of the engine head gaskets were gone and valve covers leaked it used 2 quarts of oil and a half gallon of coolant during the ride home sorry I can go on and on about these cars I can't get enough of them lol

I'm not sure if it was a nest probably was it didn't smell like a mouse cage like my 91 did but the driver side vent I had to clean this pinkish clothe bits out of it and on the defrost so it's a good chance that it did idk this 92 I can actually run the heat and not want to vomit from the smell it don't smell at all just had the pinkish like clothe at the vent covers the heats really not that bad I just have ocd when it comes to cars lol kinda just drives me nuts I was going to check the cabin filter just haven't gone out to look my 3 year old kid keeps me busy I did notice that after driving in town for 1 1/2 hours it will start to blow super hot and stay that way even when I get on the highway it's not overheating but sometimes the passenger side is colder then the driver side and the blend lever on the Hvac is stiffer in the middle and just feels loose when you move it to hot and cold I also noticed if I play with it up on hot the heat gets hotter i haven't messed with it since and it's pretty good now not as hot as when I drive around for a couple of hours I'm also thinking I might need a coolant flush for the heater core I have a new radiator in it I'm not sure about the thermostat as that came from my 91 and I got that car for free from a family friend that needed timing belts it's just once in a while when running defrost will cool air start coming from the center vents on the dash it will stop sometimes if I mess with the temp setting and I agree mice suck when it comes to these it's one of the most common problems with these cars let them sit a while and they make it they're home

I'm going to try and bypass the vacuum system and rig the system to stay on defrost and rig the blend door as it doesn't close all the way with it on defrost you can feel cool air coming from the default vents in the middle it had a nest in it that I still need to clean out somehow still best $250 bucks I've spent I drive it 135 miles a day and have put 3k miles on it already

Is there a way to manually select defrost so I don't have to take the dash apart or would I still have to do that it won't go to defrost until the car is warmed up I know the leak is behind the Hvac buttons but everyone I talk to keeps telling me not to take the dash off as it might not go back on contrary to what I've read on the forums and yes I've searched other wise I wouldn't be making posts to find this stuff out and the people I have asked have owned nothing but old subarus the main person is about to buy his first vehicle newer the 91 and the 91 was a loyale he's owned only subarus for 40 or more years

I got my loyale wagon running just have to replace a ball joint debating on just swapping the hub from my donor car obviously it's cheaper been thinking if this car lasts me till spring I might try and find an ea81 to swap in place of my 268k mile ea82 the car has 167k I would do an ej swap but I'm mainly looking for a fast turn over as I like to drive this car it always seems to make people venture into on coming traffic on the high way lol I have an annoying vacuum leak I assume it's under the dash when it's warming up with the selector on defrost you can hear a hear a hiss from behind the speedometer until it switches and goes away how many screws are there to take it off and check it out maybe with it off I can get a better look at the cel wire I'm from Sioux Falls South Dakota so if anyone has a ea81 for sale I would be willing to meet up if it's not too far