brundl3fly

There's no button for 4wd or anything like that but I'm not a real mechanic so if that's not what you're asking I can pass along the question.

Thanks again for your insight. With the car up on jacks I was told the rear does not spin with any power (can be stopped by hand easily) while the front wants to go. Are there common wear parts that shoudl be checked? There is no noise coming from the system (griding, etc).

So the fuse holder was checked, no fuse. For testing he inserted a fuse and the FWD light came on in the display as attached. I assume this is as it's meant to be. With no fuse in there we get no lights at all in that vehicle diagram, is that as expected? I thought maybe the fwd was on in normal operation and when the awd was in use somethign else lit up, am I incorrect?

Thanks for the input, I will have him check for the fuse before we do anything crazy. Out of curiosity does anyone know what the "Rear Spin (4wd AT)" fuse does? I've found no documentation on it.

Manufacture date was 9/86.

​Thanks for the input. OK as I mentioned earlier in this thread there is a fuse in the regular fuse box marked Rear Spin (4wd AT), 15A. This is not what I'm looking for? If it is, that fuse is installed and is fine. In my newer Outback Sport you only installed the fuse if you wanted 2wd or were towing (what I suppose it was actually meant for) so if it's the same as that car having a fuse IN disabled 4wd. The name of this fuse, Rear Spin, seems to indicate that it needs to be installed in order to make 4wd work, does that fit with what people here know?

OK here we are.

I am still waiting for the pic of the shifter (its at my friend's) but it is the 4 speed... unless I am counting wrong. It has the 1 hold button at the bottom as mentioned in the 4eat documentation and there is a "power" light also mentioned. I was looking for an existing pic on the net but was unsuccessful finding the exact one and do not want to confuse matters. I also saw on a year model description the mention in 88 of the air suspension which this car also has. That wasn't mentioned on the 87 model (that I found) but the title says 1987.

Before I read your response I'd gone to the fuse box. There is a fuse in there which reads "Rear Spin (4wd AT)" so it sounds related but I don't know if it means with the fuse IN the 4wd is active or with the fuse OUT like my 2011 Outback Sport. I'm assuming it's with the fuse IN 4wd would be active. As I've said, no light up display of 2 or 4wd and I've only seen one tire spin. It doesn't sound like it's going to be easy unless someoen has another idea. Thanks!!!

OK thanks, I hadn't looked at the fuse box. I knew my 2011 Outback Sport had a fuse for 2wd but didn't realize that went all the way back to 1987. I'll give that a look today, hopefully the manual has a fuse diagram as I could not find one on the net easily.

Yeah the car says 4wd on the side. There is a display on the dash that (I think) showed ligts for just using front wheels and then it would light up the rears if it was in 4wd mode. As I said above, none of those are on now.

This one is an auto. Just checked, and it is the 4-speed auto. I have noticed the display showing either 2 or 4 wheel is no longer lit up, not sure if that's anything more than a display issue but neither 2 or 4 wheel lights are on anymore. Not sure when that happened.

Hi, I poked around a bit but couldn't see anything specifically titled about the GL10's AWD and why it may not be working. A little disappointed because we are having a lot of snow in MT right now and the car wouldn't make it up the hill. When I went to help I noticed only the passenger side front tire moving. Can anyone give me a short list of possible things to check or things that might be wrong? I have a friend that's a mechanic but I'd like to not waste his time troubleshooting if we have a couple good solid leads to follow. I saw posts with people talking about AWD buttons on certain models and as far as I know there's nothing like that on these. The car may be suspect because I bought it off some less that scrupulous.... persons... a while ago so they may have disabled anything that would clunk, make a noise, blow up until I'd bought it. Thanks for any help!

I have, simply need to pic them up. No leaks found under pressure!

OK, off to the machine shop they go. I'm not putting this motor back together just to have the same problem.

I would like to have them, thanks. I understand what people are saying about not having them but with me living in MT the road sludge and gravel... I'd just feel better. Let me know if I can PM you with an address if you have them. Thanks again!

Sorry, let me clarify it stalled, didn't seize. I can actually still see hone marks in the cylinders so I think we are good there. Tom, you bring up points I've seen as well. This is a turbo so... guess I should take it to the machine shop to have it tested?

Hi, When we took this engine apart we discovered the right side inner timing cover is fragged. I may be able to fashion something to make a repair but I'd rather get one if they can be found. I've looked online on eBay and such and at the local wrecking yard with no success so I'm asking here if anyone has something like this. Thanks!

Hi, I posted a while ago about the turbo in my GL-10 Wagon and now we have begin to tear the motor apart in order to hopefully repair it and get it back in. There are some issues I'd like to see if someone has some insight on tho. So the motor obviously had problems losing coolant, that is ultimately what stopped the car on the way home. It was late and dark and we couldn't really tell I was ejecting steam but I did run out of coolant eventually and the car stopped, I pulled over and when I stopped accelerating it did not keep going. So we've removed the everything down to the block today and here it where my questions start. We have cracks in one head between valves. I've seen numerous posts where this isn't usually a problem but thought I'd throw that out. Any particular issues with the cracks between valves? We found no real smoking gun with the gaskets. The one cylinder we think was the problem actually didn't have an obvious breach in the gasket we could see. The other head's gasket actually looked much worse but still not a smoking gun. Has anyone run into this? I was really hoping to see a break between cyl 4 and a water jacket which would have made lots of sense. But it really wasn't obvious. Really any input you have could help us out. Do I just put all the new gaskets in (after the heads are examined) or is there something else you'd recommend? Thanks!

Thanks for the reply, wagonist. That makes me feel better. I'm new to the forum so I'll look up how to post pics... doesn't seem there is a direct upload here but I'll fid something. Yes, the crack is in the exhaust flange but runs up to where the impeller is. I was afraid it might mess with the operation of the impeller but maybe not. I'm sure you are correct on it being the wastegate and I'm glad I'm not supposed to make that move by hand! I will also look up information on the mod you suggest. The whole engine is out of the car so why not?! Thanks again for the quick reply.. thought I posted something last night but obviously not. Ooo.. might have figured up the pic thing, lets try.

Hi, I just acquired an 87 GL-10 turbo wagon. Sadly the seller was an unscrupulous b*stard and lied about the condition of the engine and turbo. I will be checking compression and replacing head gaskets but another issue is the turbo. There is a crack in the flange on the exit side and a vacuum actuated level (not sure what it is) doesn't move. I can't find any info on a place to get a reman not do I see any on eBay. Just wondering if anyone has a lead. I will likely be posting more as I get along with the project. Thanks!