StephenA

Oh, the bolt get tighter. It just backs off. I'm going to put blue thread locker on it. I experimented with the frankenmotor, which is on an engine stabs, and was unable to get the key out. So, pulling the radiator and fans, then dig into tbe belt. Not doing the water pump at this time. I just need it up and running for now.

98 outback, 2.5l I've had this car for 6 months. Now I think I know why the guy sold it. The crankshaft pully is wearing out. I've been tightening the bolt, but it keeps loosening. So today I pulled it off. As suspected, the pully is heavily damaged. I have a spare, so no worries there. The keeper key (cannot for the life of me, remember the proper name) is nearly ready to break. If the pictures load, you can see what I'm talking about. So, the question is, do I have to pull the timing belt in order to get that keeper out? If I do that, I guess I should put a new belt on. I'm dumped a buncha money into the frankenmotor build. (Seperate car) So this car is adding insult to injury.

Thanks for the advice. I've been taking note of the differences. I'm guess I'm using this as a learning experience. I just hope it runs. Sorry for the delay. Life suckerpunched me and I'm just getting back to this project. I need it running because I'm selling my other outback.

thats an interesting combo. smaller block but with better air/fuel flow. truly, subaru is a lego set.

Not bothering to save the heads. ill reassemble them loosely in case someone else wants them. Id rather stick with the 2.2. First time with a frankenmotor, but I'm keeping the 2.2 from the car intact in case I build this motor wrong. Having fun either way.

Thanks. I guess I'll just go bang on those cams.

98 2.5 frankenmotor build. So I'm looking at the 2.5 headbolts. Am i to remove the cams in order to get the head bolts out? The Haynes manual is as helpful as a milk bucket under a bull. It tells me what order to remove the bolts, but nothing about how to access the bolts with a socket. I cant wait to get these heads off and put the 2.2 heads on. Stephen

This last weekend I tried to start the car. I had left the key with the guy who owns the property its parked on. So.... not the key is gone. sigh. I found an old keyring with the original, very worn key. I'll have my friend try starting it as Its located 300 miles away, so I cant just pop over to work on it. Hopefully he doesn't lose this key. So thank you all for the great advice. I like the idea of leaving the intake attached and dropping in the replacement block. There is a tractor with a bucket on site that will make lifting it out a breeze. Of course, its going to be a month before I can get back there again. I just hope it doesn't snow. I swear to dog, I'm about ready to program up an Arduino to read the codes and output it to OLED display. Cant be that hard. -Stephen

Both engines are manual. So it still needs the intake swapped? Thats easy anyway. The OBD1 vs OBDII hijinx. I can deal with CEL if needed. Great info. Thank you

I have a 90 Legacy going on 340k that's running super rough Can a 95 2.2 engine swap out with the 90 2.2 with no issues as far as the computer is concerned? I'm afraid the 90 won't pull two mountain passes in order to get it home. It's 300 miles away so I can't work on it in my spare time. But I have a spare 95 engine. The car feels like its missing. Maybe a slipped tooth on the timing belt. Ill check that on my next trip over. HG's changed at 300k, but was unable to dress the heads when i did it. If I can't get it to run smooth, the swap is next. I don't have a tow rig. This is my first Subaru. I sold it years ago and bought it back. Now it's my fifth subaru as well. I guess it gets two badges on it. Thanks

Thank the gods I used the search function first. So, 96 Outback. Pulled out the battery. When replaced, the flashers were blinking at half brightnrss. The flasher button was tried and they went to full brightness. Noob switch on top of steering colum was checked. Further invesigation led to what I think was the ECU. Silver box, way under the dash. I could feel and hear the clicking. Came here for answers. Result: key to On but not started. Removed neg battery lead. Checked the chicken on the BBQ.i.e. 30 sec. Reconnect neg lead. All is good. Beer in hand. Cheers mate, you made my night.

I used my phone to video the flashing code. Then I could turn off the ignition and decode it without rushing. Its very helpful to keep as a record for later.

Looks like I have an action plan. Very cool

Good to know. Thank you.

'95 Legacy had a broken exhaust flange by the cat converter. I'm hoping this is replaceable and not welded in. So before I start wrenching, thought I could ask first. Any thoughts? This is my DD and can't have out of service.

It's been interesting time. I finally got the parts car up to my place on Monday. Today I finally got a chance to start swapping the hubs. Now i have another problem... No ABS on the parts car. Is there a way to disable the ABS with no ill effects? I'm just going to continue the swap unless I hear different. Personally ive had to many close calls with my ABS not braking fast enough and would love to disable it on my own car. That's a whole 'nuther story. So far I'm about $380 into this car. Its not to bad for a DD for my friend. Granted, I'd love to have a 2.2 swap kit from SJR for my '87. This is more important. I really hope I can gave it done by the end of September as I'm moving to the Washington coast soon.

I think the center diff is currently residing in the back seat.... I will have to do something with the CV's. Luckily, I don't have far to move them.

The first booster is acting as a pre-amp. In the RF world, that's pretty acceptable. Just remember it will amplify everything, noise included. Usually not a huge problem for modern radios. The signal strength coming from the antenna is low power. So having a bit of a preamp won't hurt the inputs of another amp. I use the same technique for my cell phone booster. I use a 9db antenna fed to the amp. Hope it helps.

The plot thickens. A neighbor who hauls scrap steel knew of a guy with an old sube. I met with him yesterday and wound up buying two part subes for $75. One engine supposedly runs. Doubtful. One has no windows and the body is shot. Literally. Bullet holes in the front and rear doors. But now i'll have complete suspensions from two rigs. I'll strip the all parts i think ill need and move the hulks off my property. Fortunately, i have shop spare for storage. I'll have to build more shelves. But first I have to go put some spare tires on these hulks so the car mover doesn't kill the suspension. I might try flat towing them. I just want this car fixed and delivered to it's new owner. It's like making chicken soup. First, catch the chicken... Thanks for the advice.

Those manuals are great! Thanks for the info

Advice time. Is it better to replace the back plate or the entire assembly? You can see in the picture where I'm pointing out the bent areas. Hub? Is that the right word? The 3/4 breaker bar and 32mm socket should arrive today from Amazon.

Thanks for the kind words. I have some skill, she has a need. A neighbor scraps old cars. He's bringing me some subes so I can strip parts before the scrapping. That helps a lot with this project. I've helped him, he helps me. Small town. Thanks for the tips on these brakes. My manuals say very little about these.

I too know the pain that comes from working at a big box store. And kudos for you taking care of your sister. With no warning signs, I'm not sure how you can prevent a failure. The most important thing is just keep educating yourself on the car and how to fix it. But I'm sure you know that and carry tools. Chin up and keep going!