StephenA

Tone ring... that's what that's called? Yes, the screws came threw the spindle into the ring. There is no way to rebuild it. It's too beat up. I'll be pulling the assembly from another car. I'll do a complete brake job on this before it's done. The car is going to a lady I know who lives on Social security, and has trouble walking. This ride will give independence and make doctor appointment much easier. So ya, good brakes equals piece of mind. As for the previous owner, I can't say anything bad. He's a nice guy overall. Just a bit clueless. While marijuana is legal in Washington, it doesn't mean everybody should partake.

Another pic of the damage

Bought a 91 legacy for $50. Had a grinding noise and owner suspected the rear diff was shot. I didn't dispute him on it. After removing badly rusted brakes, I found this. Just had to share! To good to keep to myself.

Checking out that red line water wetter now... Im willing to give anything that helps in the high desert a try.

I have one 95 with the loops cut off. So annoying.

Thanks for the replies. I'll look into them.

'95 Legacy with Forrester struts. Besides having the saggy bottom syndrome, I find that every time I load up the back it squats bad. I brought home a small load of energy logs (like prestologs, but without wax in them) and boy howdy, was it chirping on the way home. About 450 pounds load. Is there stiffer springs that will fit? Under $100? While I'd love slimmer coilover, I can't justify a mod that's equal to the worth of the car. I might wind up doing this to my '90 legacy as I need that rig for hauling water for the cabin. Ah... the challenge of living on a mountain!

I too am curious about this. I have the same issue with my '90 legacy w/MT. It's not bad, just noticeable enough to be annoying. Like it's seeking.

Thanks for the info. I got it all buttoned up and running pretty good. Few more things on the engine to fix not related to the HG. Of course, the U-joint on the trans output disintegrated. Never ends...

I have a 95 outback. The new engine is a 95. Not sure what car it came out off. Thanks for the comments. That helps. My plan is to swap then rebuild the current engine. Head gaskets, yada, yada, yada. Thanks again.

Picked up a replacement 2.2 for my outback. But the engine is from an AT. I'm thinking I only have to swap in the flywheel and clutch assembly. I'm sure this has been done. Any thoughts?

I got the gasket from Napa auto. Good or bad, judging from the condition of the crankshaft pulley key this engine is not long for this world anyway. I just picked up another 2.2 on Sunday. Now that I have time, I'll rebuild this one better. I now have the tools and I just had great practice. Not sure if I want to try a frankenmoter yet, but I'll have a set of heads for when I do.

Thank you. That makes a lot of sense. I'll check it out tomorrow.

So I just finished putting the engine back into the car after doing the head gaskets. Took it for a drive down my mountain. Now the brake is locked up tight. Could this be part of the hill holder? I might have missed a connection when putting the engine back in? Looking in the Chilton manual shows a hill holder, but not what to look for or how to adjust. Ideas please!

Thank you for your input. I looked into the Subaru dealership. They want a goodly sum for them, don't they? I'll have to make do with the fel-pro this time. I can fix my beater winter car for now, then build up my summer car proper.

Yup, another head gasket rebuild topic. While I plan on buying the gasket kit from Rockauto, I don't plan on using their head gasket. Rock auto just has a great price for all the rest of the gaskets. So, while browsing Summit Racing, they have a huge selection of Cometic head gaskets and only one Fel-pro. I'm guessing there is a reason for this... Is there a difference between these? The cost difference is slight. If stock thickness is .100, is it worth moving to .080? This is a daily driver on a rough mountain road. More power would be nice, but not at the expense of reliability. For the record, 1990 legacy. Engine is from a wrecking yard. Was in the car when I bought it. Thanks

That was very helpful. Thank you.

I've read a lot of forums on flat towing a 90 manual legacy. So please don't say "search the forum" What nobody had said is how they tow. The tow vehicle is a Ford 150 w/351 cu. No problem there. But is a tow bar used? Where do you attach? Its not like the bumper is a tow point. The dealer said the hook points underneath are for strapping the car to a flatbed, and not a tow point. I have a 300 mile trip to take over a mountain pass. So it has to be a robust system. Thoughts? Comments?

Finally had time to work on my car. Got it started! Starter fluid, foot to the floor and cranked on it. Only ran for a moment, but that eliminates a whole host of potential problems. So now I'm thinking fuel. I'll start pursuing that thread. Pick n pull has fuel pumps for $28. Rock Auto has em for $18. Don't know if I need one or not yet.

Needed a compression tester anyway. It's a wrecking yard engine, so it's previous life is a mystery. I bought the car with it. There is low resistance when checking the injectors. Voltage is in spec. Didn't think to check the plugs for the can and crank sensors. Will do that today. Been wanting to snag another motor from the wrecking yard anyway. Maybe it's time. Thanks for the ideas. It's my first Subaru. I prefer working on my dodge power wagon. Fuel&fire and it goes! Lol

The rhythm sounds normal when cranking. Just no sound like fuel is being fed. Hmmm. Must check for fuel. I'd have to pull the timing belt to check the first question. Not a problem as I haven't fully buttoned up the radiator yet.

'90 legacy. Went to start one morning and it sounded normal. I let off the key too soon, and it didn't start. Turned key again, just get the starter. Put in new timing belt, it wasn't broke, but it needed it anyway. New coil. I have good spark. Really good spark... Checked fuses, link ect. One thought was, left cam seemed very easy to rotate. Possible broken cam? What am I missing? Engine codes are o2 and #2 injectors. Thanks Stephen